Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
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I just bought one of these from Tower. It will be my first twin and my first warbird. From what I've heard it lands like a trainer but other than that...I don't know. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thinking either Saito 72's or 82's...any suggestions?
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Cowboy,
It lands very well but not a trainer... I would tend to say you must be well trained to land any planes. As for the B-25 easy build, well explained and superb result,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
It lands very well but not a trainer... I would tend to say you must be well trained to land any planes. As for the B-25 easy build, well explained and superb result,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
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ORIGINAL: normandouellette
Cowboy,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
Cowboy,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
I used this plane as a "trainer." I also lost my first one on the maiden flight. The loss was unnessasary and was from total lack of knowledge of radio setup and expos. If you can find someone to learn from who has the plane it would be best. Second best is someone with twin experience. I had the latter, so it was the school of hard knocks for me. No one would do a checkout maiden for me. They stated the plane was "too nice" and just couldnt do it. Well worth it for me to keep going. If you can land even close to good you can land this plane. Flying the TF Cessna 182, which you already have, greatly increased my skills at landing any plane. You can do it. You can fly mine if you want. The drive is a little far.
SR
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ORIGINAL: Speedracer2112
I second that. I wish they would have had the pumped version when I bought mine. I could add them......... My OS81's run perfectly. No need for on board glow starter. I have had only one engine failure in over 150 flights and it was due to poor maintence on my part. The pumps allow you to run straight pipes. Sounds better and looks better.
I used this plane as a "trainer." I also lost my first one on the maiden flight. The loss was unnessasary and was from total lack of knowledge of radio setup and expos. If you can find someone to learn from who has the plane it would be best. Second best is someone with twin experience. I had the latter, so it was the school of hard knocks for me. No one would do a checkout maiden for me. They stated the plane was "too nice" and just couldnt do it. Well worth it for me to keep going. If you can land even close to good you can land this plane. Flying the TF Cessna 182, which you already have, greatly increased my skills at landing any plane. You can do it. You can fly mine if you want. The drive is a little far.
SR
ORIGINAL: normandouellette
Cowboy,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
Cowboy,
Engines: my suggestion is a pair of OS81 W/PUMP straight pipe would be my preference now price for performance.
Normand
I used this plane as a "trainer." I also lost my first one on the maiden flight. The loss was unnessasary and was from total lack of knowledge of radio setup and expos. If you can find someone to learn from who has the plane it would be best. Second best is someone with twin experience. I had the latter, so it was the school of hard knocks for me. No one would do a checkout maiden for me. They stated the plane was "too nice" and just couldnt do it. Well worth it for me to keep going. If you can land even close to good you can land this plane. Flying the TF Cessna 182, which you already have, greatly increased my skills at landing any plane. You can do it. You can fly mine if you want. The drive is a little far.
SR
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#2458
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I'll weigh my options. I won't be starting on it til Winter prob'ly because I'm finishing up my TF Cessna 182 which I halted some other projects to start on.It sounds to me like this was not exactly the greatest model for a "1st twin/1st warbird?" I'll try it anyway though...way too sweet to give up on.
#2459
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Cowboy,
the B-25 handles like a honey. She reacts slowly (in a good way) and predictably and is very stable. It's just that the stakes are high what with all the expenditure and effort to complete. Being a twin, it doesn't really fly differently than any other smooth-flying plane, it's just that in an engine - out situation this is when your skill and nerves may be needed.
Build it when you're ready, enjoy looking at it in your work shop (or living room or kitchen!), then fly when you're ready. Keep us up-to-date!
Tim
the B-25 handles like a honey. She reacts slowly (in a good way) and predictably and is very stable. It's just that the stakes are high what with all the expenditure and effort to complete. Being a twin, it doesn't really fly differently than any other smooth-flying plane, it's just that in an engine - out situation this is when your skill and nerves may be needed.
Build it when you're ready, enjoy looking at it in your work shop (or living room or kitchen!), then fly when you're ready. Keep us up-to-date!
Tim
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ORIGINAL: krproton
Cowboy,
the B-25 handles like a honey. She reacts slowly (in a good way) and predictably and is very stable. It's just that the stakes are high what with all the expenditure and effort to complete. Being a twin, it doesn't really fly differently than any other smooth-flying plane, it's just that in an engine - out situation this is when your skill and nerves may be needed.
Build it when you're ready, enjoy looking at it in your work shop (or living room or kitchen!), then fly when you're ready. Keep us up-to-date!
Tim
Cowboy,
the B-25 handles like a honey. She reacts slowly (in a good way) and predictably and is very stable. It's just that the stakes are high what with all the expenditure and effort to complete. Being a twin, it doesn't really fly differently than any other smooth-flying plane, it's just that in an engine - out situation this is when your skill and nerves may be needed.
Build it when you're ready, enjoy looking at it in your work shop (or living room or kitchen!), then fly when you're ready. Keep us up-to-date!
Tim
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Is anyone else flying on 7 channels? That's the best set-up I can get for now. I was going to go no retracts and use my 2.4 Futaba 7C. Sound ok?
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Good call. You will save yourself a huge about of trouble if you have the engines on seperate channels.
BTW here are a few videos. The first is video shot with a camera on the tail:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymFeGA67qYI
This is a flight of mine viewed from the ground. Typical flight:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_OwHrwkcTo
Here is the maiden of a club members Nitro models B 25 that didnt go so well. It needed more throttle and might have been tail heavy. Dont do this on your maiden!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4xPrZwJV6o
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Hi everyone. My B-25 has about 200+ flights now. No crashes and only a few bumpy landings with no damage and still looks brand new. Shes a great bird and is still loved at the field by everyone. No more crowds tho. She flys too often and has lost some ( just a little ) of her "WOW" factor. The guys at the field do still give me the sky alone when I fly her.
Anyway, I was still a bit of a rookie when I built her. I have run across another problem to report or at least to think about as you build. Its the fuel tanks. Easy enough right? Well after a year of flights and a little wear my right tank is sucking air when I de-fuel. I have holes in my lines!! The tanks are literally burried in the nacells. To rework them means removal of everything down to the wood core of the nacelle and cutting them out. I have to do this now or pay for it when I loose a fuel line or lean out and overheat. I admit that after 200 flights this should be done anyway to check the tanks for wear, but geeze its a big job. Anyway, I will begin tearing her down next weekend. I may be able to fix this with just the removal of the motors and mounts working from the front of the firewall. We will see. I will make a post after I am done to discuss the stress damage of 200+ flights within the nacelles if I have to tear them down. I can easily see this rock solid plane making several hundred more flights easily with proper maintenance.
Cheers!!
SR
Anyway, I was still a bit of a rookie when I built her. I have run across another problem to report or at least to think about as you build. Its the fuel tanks. Easy enough right? Well after a year of flights and a little wear my right tank is sucking air when I de-fuel. I have holes in my lines!! The tanks are literally burried in the nacells. To rework them means removal of everything down to the wood core of the nacelle and cutting them out. I have to do this now or pay for it when I loose a fuel line or lean out and overheat. I admit that after 200 flights this should be done anyway to check the tanks for wear, but geeze its a big job. Anyway, I will begin tearing her down next weekend. I may be able to fix this with just the removal of the motors and mounts working from the front of the firewall. We will see. I will make a post after I am done to discuss the stress damage of 200+ flights within the nacelles if I have to tear them down. I can easily see this rock solid plane making several hundred more flights easily with proper maintenance.
Cheers!!
SR
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This won't be as bad as you think, I had my B25 ready to maiden - and then saw that one of my retracts where leaking, and decided to use LADOs actuators, for that I would have to take of the naceles to take out the retracts.... only took me like half a hour per retract to do, the front one taking no more then 10 minuts, I had been dreading doind this for 2 weeks, LOL...
Just go for it, it'll be easyer then you think! Good luck!
P.S. I really tiked using those threaded incerts in the wing to secure the naceles to the wings, wouldint trust those selftapers into wood, just my 0.02C
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE068&P=7
Just go for it, it'll be easyer then you think! Good luck!
P.S. I really tiked using those threaded incerts in the wing to secure the naceles to the wings, wouldint trust those selftapers into wood, just my 0.02C
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE068&P=7
#2469
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Accessing the fuel tank from the firewall is easy to do. You do not need to dismantle the whole nacelle unless your fuel tank is cracked. After removing the engine you can access the fuel tank from the hole by loosening the screw and remove the seal cap from there. You must them replace the seal cap with the Dubro 401(a) here is the link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ARCH=dubro+401
The rubber seal soaking in the glow fuel is all difformed and impossible to reinstall. You may also wish to replace your tubes with new ones and check for corrosion.
You can clearly see the front of the fuel tank on the attached pic.
Normand
The rubber seal soaking in the glow fuel is all difformed and impossible to reinstall. You may also wish to replace your tubes with new ones and check for corrosion.
You can clearly see the front of the fuel tank on the attached pic.
Normand
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ORIGINAL: normandouellette
You can clearly see the front of the fuel tank on the attached pic.
Normand
You can clearly see the front of the fuel tank on the attached pic.
Normand
Norman, is that a new plane or a photo of your original build?
Have you seen these guys yet?
[link=http://www.modelairplanenews.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=17F3E50B054A4C1C9FDD81B36E52B522&nm =Site+Features&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A 415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=547F62E046D141A680 953CE753436432]ASM 120" B-17 ARF[/link]
[link=http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=53&osCsid=37 dfb9de4bd8f74106b4e163a1a38186]ASM 120" Lancaster ARF[/link]
I REALLY want the B-17. Im afraid of the fusalage being made of plastic.
Thanks again.
SR
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This is the original picture done in 10/2007 during the assembly
I have seen those ASM models. I am presently building a (134 inch) 1/9th scale Avro Lancaster from a plan. I noticed in time that the ARF is a great solution to obtain quick satisfaction, there is better and lesser quality out there. It is fun to put together an ARF and fly it. I still enjoy my B-25 a lot after many flights. For an ARF it is simply the best out there in my opinion. Before spending the extra 2500$ to put together an ARF like the B-25 you must feel confident the 650$ plane is worthy. With the TF B-25 there was no hesitation and the proof is 3 years later this toy is always ready to fly!
My experience with ASM has been sad from the moment I started the assembly of their A-26. Lovely looking plane but the plastic is simply not for me. I am going to be extra careful before spending the extra 4 to 5000$ involved in putting together an ARF of this class. If the fuselage is plastic; well I'll be a spectator. I do not know where you got the info about a plastic fuselage for the B-17 and the Lancaster, my reading lead me to think it is all wood wrapped in some printed "monokote" type covering. If it is, it will be a very hot model to buy. It is always easy to mold fiberglass cowls to replace the plastic cowls. Redoing a fuselage is another story.
I have seen those ASM models. I am presently building a (134 inch) 1/9th scale Avro Lancaster from a plan. I noticed in time that the ARF is a great solution to obtain quick satisfaction, there is better and lesser quality out there. It is fun to put together an ARF and fly it. I still enjoy my B-25 a lot after many flights. For an ARF it is simply the best out there in my opinion. Before spending the extra 2500$ to put together an ARF like the B-25 you must feel confident the 650$ plane is worthy. With the TF B-25 there was no hesitation and the proof is 3 years later this toy is always ready to fly!
My experience with ASM has been sad from the moment I started the assembly of their A-26. Lovely looking plane but the plastic is simply not for me. I am going to be extra careful before spending the extra 4 to 5000$ involved in putting together an ARF of this class. If the fuselage is plastic; well I'll be a spectator. I do not know where you got the info about a plastic fuselage for the B-17 and the Lancaster, my reading lead me to think it is all wood wrapped in some printed "monokote" type covering. If it is, it will be a very hot model to buy. It is always easy to mold fiberglass cowls to replace the plastic cowls. Redoing a fuselage is another story.
#2472
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Hi SR.
Nice post. I see you have over 200 flights logged on your B-25. Congratulations! It's funny how the novelty has worn off at your local flying field and nobody stops what they're doing to watch your beautiful bird!
But I take that as a compliment to the plane and your skills to fly her so often and keep her going that long.
I hope you get your fuel tanks sorted out. Take your time and do it correctly so you can continue to have peace-of-mind for many more flights!
Tim
Nice post. I see you have over 200 flights logged on your B-25. Congratulations! It's funny how the novelty has worn off at your local flying field and nobody stops what they're doing to watch your beautiful bird!
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
I hope you get your fuel tanks sorted out. Take your time and do it correctly so you can continue to have peace-of-mind for many more flights!
Tim
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I've only had mine for about a year, and only flown once, and it was great. Handled like a great big sport bird. Hoping to fly again this weekend at the BARCs spring fly in Thompsonville, Mich.
Reading some of the preceding remarks reminded me of a process I take for granted with ARFs: Open box, remove fuel tanks and wheels, trash same. The B-25 was no exception.
I've never had an ARF where the supplied wheels lasted more than one or two seasons, and the fuel tanks are of uniformly poor quality, and are generally too large for the recommended engines. My tanks are 10oz Great Planes, which are extremely easy to set up and reliable. The supplied tanks are 14 oz, way too big for consistent fuel delivery with anything smaller than a 90 two stroke. (I'm running 55AX's)
A reliable fuel system is the most critical part of glow engine operation. Once I accepted that advice, I've had no troubles or flameouts with them.
Reading some of the preceding remarks reminded me of a process I take for granted with ARFs: Open box, remove fuel tanks and wheels, trash same. The B-25 was no exception.
I've never had an ARF where the supplied wheels lasted more than one or two seasons, and the fuel tanks are of uniformly poor quality, and are generally too large for the recommended engines. My tanks are 10oz Great Planes, which are extremely easy to set up and reliable. The supplied tanks are 14 oz, way too big for consistent fuel delivery with anything smaller than a 90 two stroke. (I'm running 55AX's)
A reliable fuel system is the most critical part of glow engine operation. Once I accepted that advice, I've had no troubles or flameouts with them.
#2474
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The B-17 is " wood and carbon fiber frame covered in an ABS molded shell". per the artical. My local hobby shop has ordered two of them. I want to see one first.
Features:
- Plywood, balsa wood, and carbon airframe covered with scaled-detailed molded skins
- Factory-covered wings and painted fuselage, cowls and nacelles
- 3-piece wing for easy transportation
- Wide selection of power systems can be used
- Exceptional multiengine scale warbird flying qualities
- Clear molded windshields
- Working gear doors (when used wIth optional retracts)
- Dedicated retract gear system available separately
- IMAA Legal 120 Inch Wing Span Available in OLIVE DRAB
Specifications:
Wing span: 120 Inches
Fuselage length: Inches
Weight: lbs (Varies34-41 Oz/SqFt
Wing area: ~ SqIn
Engines: For Glow: Four .35-.40 two-stroke or four .52 four-stroke engines (Pitts-style mufflers can be used.
200+ flight in a year......southern Florida baby!! Flying 24/7/360 I love it!
SR
Features:
- Plywood, balsa wood, and carbon airframe covered with scaled-detailed molded skins
- Factory-covered wings and painted fuselage, cowls and nacelles
- 3-piece wing for easy transportation
- Wide selection of power systems can be used
- Exceptional multiengine scale warbird flying qualities
- Clear molded windshields
- Working gear doors (when used wIth optional retracts)
- Dedicated retract gear system available separately
- IMAA Legal 120 Inch Wing Span Available in OLIVE DRAB
Specifications:
Wing span: 120 Inches
Fuselage length: Inches
Weight: lbs (Varies34-41 Oz/SqFt
Wing area: ~ SqIn
Engines: For Glow: Four .35-.40 two-stroke or four .52 four-stroke engines (Pitts-style mufflers can be used.
200+ flight in a year......southern Florida baby!! Flying 24/7/360 I love it!
SR
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Oh ya....I'm on my third set of Robart wheels with heavy duty inserts.I use the entire runway on take offbut not because I have too. I like a nice long run out at full speed with a gentle lift off. Its hard on both the rubber and the axel holes. The front wheel goes first. My next set will have brass axel inserts to keep from melting the sleeves.
SR
SR