KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
#1
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KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Hi im getting ready to start my Maxcat build im bumping the size up to 6ft.
Im going to be using a Blata fully modded and ported motor to a gearbox and counter rotating props.
What is a good size prop to use to get started at.
Im a huge KU Jayhawk fan so im gunna make like the Bud Light Cat but silver will be red and the right front corner will be yellow and some other decals im hoping it will look pretty sweet.
Im having my hardware custom made. Ill start building this weekend i have to get the plans printed and get the wood.
Im going to use 7/32 lauan for the skeleton and im planing on using 1/8 balsa to plank it.
Im wondering whats the best way to cut the wood out. I dont have a woodshop so it'll be more complicated.
And whats the best adhesive to use on the skeleton.
Ill use some what thick fiberglass on the outside and thin on the inside. Im gunna put a couple of naca ducts infront of the canapy and two big scoops in the back.
Ive got this build planned out pretty well im just gunna need a little nudge from you guys here and there and tips will be a big help also. I have only built one other boat and it was a Predator rigger.
Im going to be using a Blata fully modded and ported motor to a gearbox and counter rotating props.
What is a good size prop to use to get started at.
Im a huge KU Jayhawk fan so im gunna make like the Bud Light Cat but silver will be red and the right front corner will be yellow and some other decals im hoping it will look pretty sweet.
Im having my hardware custom made. Ill start building this weekend i have to get the plans printed and get the wood.
Im going to use 7/32 lauan for the skeleton and im planing on using 1/8 balsa to plank it.
Im wondering whats the best way to cut the wood out. I dont have a woodshop so it'll be more complicated.
And whats the best adhesive to use on the skeleton.
Ill use some what thick fiberglass on the outside and thin on the inside. Im gunna put a couple of naca ducts infront of the canapy and two big scoops in the back.
Ive got this build planned out pretty well im just gunna need a little nudge from you guys here and there and tips will be a big help also. I have only built one other boat and it was a Predator rigger.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
I personally wouldn't bother glassing the outside of the hull, just the inside of the hull. If built properly you shouldn't need glass on the outside.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Lite ply is a little to stiff and balsa not that much. I looked into it.
It would only cost $4 for long 8"x 36" balsa
Also im not really trying to be stubern i've just got this planned real well.
What kind of GLUE OR OTHER should I use and also whats the best way to cut the wood out. Just a regular Jigsaw or some thing else.
It would only cost $4 for long 8"x 36" balsa
Also im not really trying to be stubern i've just got this planned real well.
What kind of GLUE OR OTHER should I use and also whats the best way to cut the wood out. Just a regular Jigsaw or some thing else.
#9
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
OK, it's your boat! Some people might call me stubborn too! I don't know where they get that idea!
The trick with laying lite ply on curved parts like the bow is to start from the front and work your way back.
I hope that you've got LOTS of clamps of various sizes and types as they come in real handy.
You can tack pieces with thick CA glue then use a slow setting epoxy. As far as cutting, balsa is easy compared to most other woods so if you're cheap like me, a razor saw and/or an X-acto knife will work. You can invest in a cheap saber-saw (jigsaw) to roughly cut parts to size. Sand when you get close.
The trick with laying lite ply on curved parts like the bow is to start from the front and work your way back.
I hope that you've got LOTS of clamps of various sizes and types as they come in real handy.
You can tack pieces with thick CA glue then use a slow setting epoxy. As far as cutting, balsa is easy compared to most other woods so if you're cheap like me, a razor saw and/or an X-acto knife will work. You can invest in a cheap saber-saw (jigsaw) to roughly cut parts to size. Sand when you get close.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Dont think I seen a balsa max cat build....
I'm using balsa ply combo on an own designed cat, just in stages of glassing the outside (builds over on jims/projects). Interesting your not going to glass the inside. Get going and post some pics of the build....
Interesting to follow.
Glassing the inside was a pain in the butt.. if your turns out well with just the outside, then may follow suit in a v2 one day...
My reason for choosing balsa was I though it would be easy for contouring, ha. still made a bit of a pig out of it.
good luck adam...
I'm using balsa ply combo on an own designed cat, just in stages of glassing the outside (builds over on jims/projects). Interesting your not going to glass the inside. Get going and post some pics of the build....
Interesting to follow.
Glassing the inside was a pain in the butt.. if your turns out well with just the outside, then may follow suit in a v2 one day...
My reason for choosing balsa was I though it would be easy for contouring, ha. still made a bit of a pig out of it.
good luck adam...
#12
RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Hey, gonggongboy;
If you have seen my building thread of a 48" Maxcat that would have given you an idea of how to build this cat. If you try to save weight by using balsa instead of ply wood I guess you are thinking wrongw. When using balsa you need to glass the outside pretty heavily to prodect the skin and give it some strength. Believe me, I know from my own experiene. All the weight saving is gone by doing that. You most likely end up even heavier. If you use 1/16" ply instead it is strong already and requires very little epoxy on the outside. Ply wood provides the necessary strength for the sceleton of the hull, which is very important to guarantee a boat to be straight and run true at high speed. It's your boat and you project, but you asked for some building advice and here you have it. My Maxcat came out on the light side and I had to add lead to the lfront of the left sponson to correct prop walking in turns. At 60 she was getting really light and blew over easily.
If you have seen my building thread of a 48" Maxcat that would have given you an idea of how to build this cat. If you try to save weight by using balsa instead of ply wood I guess you are thinking wrongw. When using balsa you need to glass the outside pretty heavily to prodect the skin and give it some strength. Believe me, I know from my own experiene. All the weight saving is gone by doing that. You most likely end up even heavier. If you use 1/16" ply instead it is strong already and requires very little epoxy on the outside. Ply wood provides the necessary strength for the sceleton of the hull, which is very important to guarantee a boat to be straight and run true at high speed. It's your boat and you project, but you asked for some building advice and here you have it. My Maxcat came out on the light side and I had to add lead to the lfront of the left sponson to correct prop walking in turns. At 60 she was getting really light and blew over easily.
#13
RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
OK, I'll throw in a few cents on the balsa thing....
Using balsa as a skin on your hull and glassing the inside AND outside may not be so bad. Balsa itself is not at all strong. However used as a core and laminated on BOTH sides with at least a 6oz fabric/resin will produce a very stiff and stong laminate. Not sure about any weight savings, however strength would definately be there. There are a few full scale boats I've worked on with a laminated balsa core. Heck, even some have only foam as the core! Balsa is also used as a core to beef up full scale molds. Adds thickness and rigidity. Perhaps that's what you're thinking?
Using balsa as a skin on your hull and glassing the inside AND outside may not be so bad. Balsa itself is not at all strong. However used as a core and laminated on BOTH sides with at least a 6oz fabric/resin will produce a very stiff and stong laminate. Not sure about any weight savings, however strength would definately be there. There are a few full scale boats I've worked on with a laminated balsa core. Heck, even some have only foam as the core! Balsa is also used as a core to beef up full scale molds. Adds thickness and rigidity. Perhaps that's what you're thinking?
#14
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
I was planning on using 1/8 balsa to skin then heavy fiberglass to add strength but not as much weight as ply.
Is 1/16 ply better to fiberglass our just epoxy it. Im wanting a sturdy boat that wont break under the stress of waves but i still want it light enough to glide through the water.
Is 1/16 ply better to fiberglass our just epoxy it. Im wanting a sturdy boat that wont break under the stress of waves but i still want it light enough to glide through the water.
#15
RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
ORIGINAL: gonggongboy
I was planning on using 1/8 balsa to skin then heavy fiberglass to add strength but not as much weight as ply.
Is 1/16 ply better to fiberglass our just epoxy it. Im wanting a sturdy boat that wont break under the stress of waves but i still want it light enough to glide through the water.
I was planning on using 1/8 balsa to skin then heavy fiberglass to add strength but not as much weight as ply.
Is 1/16 ply better to fiberglass our just epoxy it. Im wanting a sturdy boat that wont break under the stress of waves but i still want it light enough to glide through the water.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Yea i guess thats true ill probaly end up getting 1/16 ply since its cheaper and i wont need to buy as much. Will regular fiberglass epoxy resin work as the epoxy to seal it.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Gonggongboy, i bought a scroll saw at a local home improvement store for under one hundred dollars. It will cut everything(wood) that you are using for your boat and do pretty precise cutting. Dennis
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
I know this may sound crazy. I have thought of away to make units like
http://206.206.85.209/xtdoc/Details....k&store=mhzusa
that a guys making me, adjustable from the remote.
So they will startup and as i increase the throttle they start lowering to plane it out. =)
Sounds crazy but if it works that would be awsome. Correct me if im wrong.
http://206.206.85.209/xtdoc/Details....k&store=mhzusa
that a guys making me, adjustable from the remote.
So they will startup and as i increase the throttle they start lowering to plane it out. =)
Sounds crazy but if it works that would be awsome. Correct me if im wrong.
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RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Like to see what he comes up with..
MHZ (I think its them) do a remote controlled version....
To be honest I had remote trim tabs on a boat, really bit of a gimmick and more to go wrong, you will be blasting across the lake with the leg in up or down position!.
If its only a fun boat keep it simple, would be my advice....
So they will startup and as i increase the throttle they start lowering to plane it out. =)
In a mono hull arrangement the drive angle raises after plane-out to lift the bow... more speed opposite to what your doing.....
may be reverse in cat, but you may want to check that out...
MHZ (I think its them) do a remote controlled version....
To be honest I had remote trim tabs on a boat, really bit of a gimmick and more to go wrong, you will be blasting across the lake with the leg in up or down position!.
If its only a fun boat keep it simple, would be my advice....
So they will startup and as i increase the throttle they start lowering to plane it out. =)
may be reverse in cat, but you may want to check that out...
#22
RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
ORIGINAL: gonggongboy
Yea i guess thats true ill probaly end up getting 1/16 ply since its cheaper and i wont need to buy as much. Will regular fiberglass epoxy resin work as the epoxy to seal it.
Yea i guess thats true ill probaly end up getting 1/16 ply since its cheaper and i wont need to buy as much. Will regular fiberglass epoxy resin work as the epoxy to seal it.
#24
RE: KU Jayhawk Maxcat build
Why trace? Take your full size plan and cut it up. Spray a light application of spray adhesive (usually like a rubber cement) on the paper and like a sticker, place it on your wood. Instant perfect cutting lines.