rthorne

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I thought it may be interesting to post some pictures of my Carden 35% Edge under construction. I started the Fuselage yesterday and am continuing on by building the engine box today.

Let me know if the group would like to see more pics as I go. I know there are several good web sites you can see these types of pics. But I always find it helpful to see more pics of how others build their planes.

So here it goes......

rthorne

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Picture of the two fuse halfs pretty much complete.

rthorne

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Shot of the two fuse sides,one on top of the other, so I can square up the wing tube to be sure the plywood tube supports are lined up correctly.

rthorne

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Shot of a circle cutter in my drill press for cutting the lightening holes in the sides of the motor box plywood. I checked Home Depot and Lowes and could not find this tool. So as much as I hated to I went to Harbor Freight and found this one. It works great for a $5.99 tool. I also checked Sears.com and found one but they wanted $19.99.

rthorne

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Glueing the 1/2" square hardwood to the engine box sides. These support the firewall and landing gear plate. After the epoxy dries, I'll drill and install 3 #8 sheet metal screws in each piece per the plans.

Ultrasp99

Yes I would love to see more pics. I also just started the construction of a 35% Edge, have the motor box completed and am ready to start the fuse sides.

Looking forward to seeing more info and pics.

Thanks and nice job!

Steve

wgeffon

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Yes,
Keep the pics coming.
I just ordered their new 35% Extra 330S and the build has to be close to the same with a different shape plane at the end.

Nice work so far.

rthorne

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Steve and Jeff:

I'll keep em coming. I'm waiting for the epoxy to dry on the motor box, so I'm probably done for the day.

Tomorrow I'll sheet the fuse and attach the fuse to the motor box.

Notice the square clamped to the motor box. Constructing the motor box was the most difficult portion so far (although it was not hard, just the most difficult step so far). The large plywood sides are not perfectly straight, ie flat, so I tried very hard to be sure the rear corner was square with the front. I also ensured that the distance from my bench top to the wing tube was the same on both sides. Also be sure the fire wall is square to the building table.

Ultrasp99

I experienced the same type of setup issues that you had. Here is a pic of mine waiting for the epoxy to dry.

Looking forward to your pics and info

Steve

Ultrasp99

Pic

rthorne

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Looks good Steve.

I'm still not happy the way my box came out. The left side is square but the right side is not unless I pull the side out just a bit.

Since I'll probably build a shelf in the box for my fuel tank I can probably solve this small issue.

By the way I used to live in Syracuse, a long time ago.

Jemo

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These sites are for different size Cardens, but lots of good info.

http://www.extra330s.com/

http://www.construction.edge540.com/


rthorne,

Looking good...

cajun-3

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I ran into the same issue with the sides of the motor box. I have placed a "brace" at the front of the hatch assembly and this has brought the sides back into allignment with no bows.

Ron Eisner

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Hello to all... I am close to finishing a customers Edge and always post pictures on my site for them to review. I'm a bit behind on posting but there is enough of the early stages to look at.

The next area I'm sure you all will want to look at is the canopy mounting and glassing of the front hatch... I'll post them soon.

Go to "Projects"... then find the Edge.

Beautiful, EZ to build kit, but so are all the Cardens.

Enjoy... Ron

R and D Aero

www.randdaero.com

Pugsley-RCU

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Good job buddy.

Nice to know that I at least started a Carden. Man those lightening holes look good. I hope you noticed the top holes were not done yet. I didn't have that neat-o hole cutter that rthorne has.

I planned on cutting the rest with a dremel wheel, with the sides taped together....it really should matter a bit if you decide not to enlarge them.

Glad you have time to finish it. May be next year for me.....

Take care,

Pug

Pugsley-RCU

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Can you describe your 45 degree taper gig a bit for me.....for those of use who joined IMAA after 2000.....

Thanks,

Pug

Ps. Hamm's Edge looks great......(at least I think it is Hammbones.....)

Ron Eisner

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Well I tried to save her for you but (yes it is Jims) Jim had the "need"... he's entering it in the Toledo show in April so we can all meet there.

The taper jig is so EZ to use I invite all my buds over to do their control surfaces... it is a 2 man job.

I used a 2" X 10" X 48" STRAIGHT cut of basic Lowes brand lumber. I did have a bud put it through his "rotary surfacer" to be sure everything was straight and flat.

Then... on the radial arm saw we beveled one side at 25 degrees the entire length and the other side 30 degrees. If you double bevel for 3D you can now get 50 or 60 degrees of travel which is plenty, or 30 degrees for sport stuff.

Now how to bevel... draw a center line on the control surface (or/and wing, stab or fin), lay a metal edge ruler on the slope of the guide and move the control surface till the ruler hits your center line on both ends and along the center... using the angle on the guide, sand away! I use 80 grit to get most of the taper them finish with 100 or 120... use a 24" t-bar for a perfectly straight finish line.

It's way EZer to do it then to talk about it... try it on some scrap.

Hope this helps... Ron

BBW Walt

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Hey Madmax: Great idea on the jig info!! Question? How do you hold the surface being beveled without moving. Also do you tape the jig or just stay off it with the sandpaper. Thanks

Ron Eisner

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Saw it in High Flight from Chico in an article that he wrote... but, two great questions.
First, as I said it IS a two man job, I do screw the jig to my table but you need someone to hold the surface you are sanding. Even with someone holding I check the center line often.
As far as tape on the jig, good idea and it can't hurt but you will know (feel) when you have the right angle going... I have probably used it 20 times and don't see any problems yet.
Like everything else I have learned in this hobby... don't be afraid to just TRY!!!

Ron

BBW Walt

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Thanks Ron: I have a set of ailerons ready to bevel, trailing wing edge also. I think I will build a jig first :-) walt

Ron Eisner

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New pics... now RTC.
www.randdaero.com

rthorne

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Madmax:

Excellent job. I can tell this isn't the first plane you've built :-).

I'm following your progress closely and taking mental notes on building methods.

My plane has taken a brief back seat to other projects. I expect to start on the fuse and motor box completation later this week.

rthorne

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Madmax:

I was looking at picture # 47, where you show how your pull/pull wire exits. Do have a couple of different pictures at different angles.

I was curious how this would be handled. I placed my long straight edge on top of the plans to simulate where the pull/pull wire would go. I would have to cut a very long slot in the fuse so the pull/pull wire would have clearance.

It looks like you have done the same thing but then installed a guide tube. Do you plan on filling the slot with balsa filler so it appears that there is just a single hole that the pull/pull wire exits from?

I've never messed with a pull/pull system before. All of the bigger planes I have flown so far have had the rudder servo's mounted in the rear of the fuse, GP Giles, Sig Sukhoi and my current plane, GP 33% 330.

Thanks.

Ron Eisner

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Hi Rich... I'll take a look and see what else I can post but for now: pics 47 and 48 show the before and after of the Nelson horn set-up. You should have the rudder hinged and whatever servo or bellcrank and rudder horn you decide to use mounted before you can complete the location of the cable exit in the fuse. Tape the rudder at the top so it can't move around till you are finished.
Then it's just a matter of taking your time to get it right. I do use inner yellow nyrod almost all the way to the bellcrank (SWB 3 servo tray) and just about 4" of the outer nyrod CLOSE to the fuse exit, NOT passing through it. I find it helps to more accurately locate the exit area.
I DO cross the cables in the fuse for a smoother line.
The (cheaters) secret is I cut a 2" or 3" notch about 1/4" wide in the rear of the fuse about where I think the cable will exit, get everything set up for a STRAIGHT, no bind line from bellcrank to horn, then slide the inner nyrod through the fuse. I Hot Stuff it in place and back it up with some scrap balsa, remove the cable then sand the nyrod perfectly flush with the fuse... to finish, go back and fill the notch just leaving the tapered yellow nyrod as the exit hole. Slide the cable in and DONE!
Oh... by the way. In order to make the line PERFECT, I sometimes end up either raising or lowering the rudder horn OR recutting or making a larger notch... no big deal. Just mock everything up before you final anything and repair any mistakes with balsa and sand flush.
Always works... always get questions about "how do you..."
Ron

Ron Eisner

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Here is a shot showing the notch and the recessed outer nyrod before the yellow inner nyrod is installed and sanded flush to the fuse. Look at #48 for the final tiny opening for the cable exit, only the size of the inside diameter of the yellow nyrod.
And, while you are here, note the ply insert on the fuse to support the stab mount fitting and the dowel inserted and tapped in the stab tube.
I like to build customers planes to last a long, long time.
Remember to cross the pull-pull cables or you will never make this work without binding.
Good luck... Ron