BECKERFLY

need advice fellow modelers,



i know i have seen it here before but cant find it. currently finnishing aw edge 29%, one of the aeilerons has a slight gap between t.e. of wing and aeileron, i was thinking of just sealing the hinge gap rather than trying to cut out the
already installed hinges. need tips on how to seal hinge gap.
the gap i am speaking of is about 1/4".



thanks in advance!!!

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Beckerfly, a 1/4 inch is more that a "slight" gap. I would recommend redoing the hinges. You can use a variety of materials to seal the gap including Scotch tape, Monokote and it's variants and several companies make specific hinge/gap sealing tape (although names escape me). But do it over...you'll feel better in the long run. Then seal the gaps anyway.

BECKERFLY

vinnie,

thanks for the reply, not what i wanted to hear but kind of what i thought, is there an easy way of re-doing this??? i am using the dubro heavy duty hinges.

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Well if the hinges are CA type simply slice thru them, make new slots nearby and reinstall new ones. Pinned hinges will be more difficult to remove. You will need a saw blade thin enough to fit in the gap and saw the hinges out. Sand smooth any protrusions left from the cut and install new ones 1/2 inch or so away. It won't take too much longer than sealing the gap. Take your time and be careful, it's really not a big deal.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I agree with Vinnie. 1/4" is a LOT. They really should be redone.

CafeenMan

you could try heating the area and hope the glue softens enough to pull the hinges out.

But you risk warping or burning the structure or loosening other glue joints.

If you cut the hinges, then you may be able to cut them out if you go slow and be careful.

In any case, they do need to be redone. You should be able to get a control surface on with only about 1/32" gap or so.

BECKERFLY

thanks for the replys, last night i took a new exacto blade and ran down adjacent to either side of the hinges and was able to remove them. opening the slot for the hinge only slightly. now with the pacer hinge glue i am using do you think i can go back into the same slot??? i am using the dubro h.d. hinges.

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry sir but I'm confused.

What type hinges were those you removed?

Do I understand that all the hinge material was removed from the slot as well?

Are the new Dubro hinges a snug dry-fit in the existing slots? If not, make new slots. Do NOT expect excess glue to compensate for oversize slots.

If you want to call me I'm at 301 342 6112.

CafeenMan

As Vinnie says, if they fit well, you can use the existing slots. I strongly recommend you "pin" the hinges in place with 1/8" dowel (or two toothpicks) on the wing and on the control surface. They will ensure the hinges will not pull out.

foxx

My Feedback: (2)

I don't know why you want to mess with the old hinges just cut them off and get rid off as much as you can and start installing hinges next to the old ones. I highly recommend Robard point hinges specially for a 1/4 scale plane , definately not CA hinges. I lost a plane when in a DuBro type hinge the center pin worked itself out INFLIGHT due to vibration. If you ever use this type of hinge make sure to check them before each flight.

BECKERFLY

foxx and cafeenman thanks for the replys after spending 2 1/2 months of building i sure dont want to loose a plane over a stinking hinge. i will purchase the robarts tomorrow, cant do anything about the elevator which is already done but the aeilerons and rudder is still in progress. plane is already covered are the robarts difficult to install???



thanks again.

CafeenMan

BeckerFly - I have a page on my site devoted to Hinge Points. Only some of it will apply to your situation because the model is already built and covered. But I agree with Foxx. Hinge Points are my hinge of choice too. I've had zero problems with them and they make hinging much simpler and more importantly, precise.

Here's my hinge point page. Hope it helps.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/hinge_points.htm

CafeenMan

Foxx - I haven't used the 1/4 scale Dubro hinges. Don't they use a cotter pin?

foxx

My Feedback: (2)

CafeenMan, after I lost my plane few years ago I have not used anything but Robart point hinges. My plane was a 60 size and I had hinges very similar to door hinges made of plastic, I am pretty sure they were made by DuBro but have seen many manufacturerers make them. I am afraid I am not familiar with DuBro 1/4 scale hinges. I am sure you know that Robart has three different size point hinges and the large one are for 1/4 scale.

foxx

My Feedback: (2)

CafeenMan I just came from your website it is pretty nice and you have cover the subject of hinging very throughly.

CafeenMan

Foxx - What I am wondering is how the pin came out. Was it a type with a removable pin or what?

CafeenMan

I'm busy uploading that page again. I made a couple changes to it. Nothing drastic. Just wanted to illustrate what I meant by crooked flat hinges.

Also, I took out that section at the end about My Stik 30. I did have a rudder hinge break. But the hinges are 1/2A hinge points - way too small for that size plane and I crank it all over the sky. The rudder moves 45 degrees in each direction and I love to spin that plane. The fin and rudder aren't thick enough for 1/8" hinge points, so I've put flat hinges in it now. Even so, I really prefer hinge points and I can't blame them for failing. It was my fault for using too small of a size.

foxx

My Feedback: (2)

CafeenMan the center pin is crimped on one end and is not removable. I think the high frequency vibration from the engine cause the center pin continuously turn inside the hinge and eventually wears out. I had several failures before the fatal one and always caught them on the ground. If you still don't know which ones I am talking about I will post a picture.

CafeenMan

I know the type of hinge you're referring to. I've never had a problem with them though. But I crash a lot so my planes generally don't live long enough for the hinges to fail.

Thanks for letting me know what type hinge it is.

Bidule

My Feedback: (1)

Hi guys....

I never heard of sealing hinge gap here in my club and nobody does it here (Canada, quebec)
I read a lot about it in this forum but i never seen any picture and this is only my second kit i build. I have included a picture of my work. Can anybody tell me if the gap is too large. I don't know if it's ok or if it should be sealed ??
This is a wing of Mid-Star 40 from SIG.
If anybody can post a picture of sealed hinge with monokote that would be nice.

Thanks !

Bidule

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the Wing

CafeenMan

Bidule - that gap isn't horrible, but it's not great either. You should seal it to make the surface more efficient and also to help prevent flutter.

Whatever you do, make sure that the linkage can't flex at all.

Check out this page. The flaperon hinges are actually Oracover, but it would look the same if there were "real" hinges underneath.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/great_gonzo.htm

To seal the hinge, remove the linkage, move the control surface to a full up position and then iron a piece of 1" wide or so monokote (or other film) to the wing and the aileron. Takes all of 15 minutes for both surfaces.

bear750

My Feedback: (30)

Bidule, if you want to see what a difference sealing the gaps would make, take some clear tape (like scotch or packing tape)and seal the length of the ailerons and the elevators, then go fly it. If you like the new responsiveness, then seal them as the others have prescribed. Sealing those gaps make a difference even on trainers.

BECKERFLY

cafeenman and bear750,

when sealing the gap after cutting film to proper length and width do you crease it long ways down the center then iron?? i appreciate the pictures but dont see how the control surface will deflect if done on both sides, or do you just seal one side??


thanks john

bear750

My Feedback: (30)

Bidule, cut your film to the correct length, then crease it lengthways. Lay the film into the gap and flex the control surface the opposite direction (remove the linkage for maximum deflection). Iron the film into the gap (I usually do the fixed portion side first and then the control surface).

You can seal both sides of the gap, but usually only one side is neccessary, ie., you can seal the bottom side and get most of the effect. If you do both sides, the second side is generally for cosmetic purpose (hides the gaps and hinges). Hope this helps.

A lot of guys here have the procedure illustrated, (I know Minnflyer did) and you can do a search for sealing hinge gaps.