jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Can the DLE ignition handle a fully charged Life4 6.6v battery without doing and damage to it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It is best to assume that they cannot and to drop the voltage to the ignition

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Jody & others have noted the DLE20 ign does NOT like voltage from 6.0 and up.

Put a diode in line to the ign module and drop the voltage to below 6.0 volts......or.........take your chances and risk burning it out.
They ONLY about $80 depending on where you get them.

If you can solder good, make up your own. If not, order one pre-made from Richard........

Inline Ignition Voltage Reducer for A123
http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/prod...&categoryId=10

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for the info. I will use the diode method to bring down the voltage to uder 6v.

skip1320

http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/prod...&categoryId=10 Rich is great to deal with good luck!

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Jim, If that diode fails as a short circuit you are going to ruin the module. If it fails as an open circuit or you get a loose connection your engine will quit. Do yourself a favor and use a four cell pack of NiCads or NiMhs. Dan.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

You'd need better evidence to convince the hundreds of RC flyers currently using the diode method,
to even consider your idea as having any merit. Tons of us have been doing it with no failures.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Must be an echo in here.........see my post #3.

Btw....in the fwiw dept., have you seen Rich's (LiFe) Field Pack?
I just got one (flat - not square), and it's so much lighter than the bigger heavier gell cell or maine batteries!

[link=http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/product.sc?productId=40&categoryId=10]**NEW** LIFE 4S1P-3300 mAh 13.2v Field Pack..............[/link]

Cool video on it's use as well......

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=go1Fq9CdKS0&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]
.
.
Cool how he uses that pack at the field to charge other batteries, then at home,
recharges that field pack with the CellPro charger on house current!

pilotpete2

On a 20cc powered plane, you may want to consider the advantages of running an IBEC, such as the Wike. It gives you both an Opto kill switch for the ignition and it has an adjustable regulator, so you can set the voltage needed. On a 20cc plane, if you do have two batteries. Both should be for the radio, and the ignition
Pete

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

In several hundred flights with the diode setup I can say that I've had problems with my thumbs, trees, the IRS and my ex-wife but I've never had a problem with a diode.

Jezmo

That's good Andy, I needed a good laugh. Oh yeah, +1 on the diodes.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

2 DLE's with the diode, 1 DLE with an IBEF. No issues, no problems. All with LIFE cells.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I know the NiMh is OK on a single diode, but wondering about LiFe? Not sure about the fully charged voltage. What I'm wondering is if you might not want to go with 2 diodes to cut the voltage back enough to be safe with the LiFe?

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Put them in the + line, each diode drops .7v each. Two in series would be
optional for A123/LiFe, one is generally good enough.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036270

OliverJacob

My Feedback: (12)

The diode method works great when you solder it properly and use shrink tube. One thing to consider is that the 1N4004 has a max current of 1 Amp. Most ignition systems draw .5 A, some others (like Zenoah) take more current.
In this case you need a bigger diode or better a voltage regular.
Also - if you want to use the same setup to run your receiver, get a regulator. This diode is not capable to deliver enough current for your servos under high load.

Timber29

My Feedback: (1)

What if you were to use this one, a 3 amp diode. http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062578

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you march into Radio Shack to buy a package of those, you will need to be armed with the part # <span class="catalog number">276-1143</span>

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

As has already been mentioned, there are a lot of guys running the 1 amp diodes without issue. If we were to continue on with the "bigger is better" logic with the rest of the components used in RC, we'd be in some serious trouble? Agree though, shrink wrap installation will make the diode much less prone to failure.

OliverJacob

My Feedback: (12)

If a Diode is rated for 1 Amp, then I would not put more current through it. It may be ok to overload it for a short time. Doing so consistingly will heat it up and sooner or later cause it to fail. Again - this one is good for most ignition systems.
But is is not enough for most radio systems. More then likely it will be more then 1 Amp, depending on the servos, the flying style and some other factors. Hard to measure.
If you fly a big bird, your servos combined will draw a lot more current. It may work for some time, but will fail under higher servo workload.
Diodes are the cheapest and smalles part on your plane, why not spending a few more cents to be on the safe side?

To the previous poster - do you think the manufacturer of this diode lies when he states a max current? Or do you think your receiver with servos will draw less?See, I point out this potential problem and maybe prevent someone from loosing their expensive model - by changing out a cheap part. I am happy if I can help people out and sometimes I need someones opinion. You are welcome.

So what is your mission here?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Just to be clear, I get my voltage drops from WrongWayRC, they cost a few bucks but they are all nice and soldered and shrink wrapped.

My setups use his batteries made with two connections from the battery (plus the balance tap).

One goes to a JR HD Switch then to the reciever. The other goes to a HD switch, to the diode, then to the ignition.

I have 3 50cc planes setup that way, I live in Florida so I fly every weekend and sometimes during the week so I rack up a lot of flights. As I said, I've had other issues, some self induced (i married her right? ) but I've not had power system or ignition failure issues.

I am just finishing the review for the Hangar 9 giant Pawnee. Thats got 2 of the WrongWayRC packs in it. One goes into the 12 channel JR Power Safe Rx. The other goes one lead to a switch and a diode and then to the RC Extreme Power electronic ignition conversion (Zenoah GT80 twin) and the other goes to the 2nd lead on the Power Safe receiver.

After 5 flights yesterday I hitched up the Cell Pro 4S and the receiver only battery was at 74% and the rx/ign battery was at 67% I would term that 5 long flights as they were really just tooling around getting some time on the motor at mid throttle and that thing came with a tank the size of a canteen.

Timber29

My Feedback: (1)

I just put one togther and tested it on a fully changed A123. With out the diode 6.9v, with got it down to 6.5 only droping it .4v so I taged two togther got it down to 6.1, I thought it would drop .7v at a time.Tthis is what I bought... 1N4004 Micro 1-Amp Rectifier Diode.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

How are you measuring? If it's not by an inline meter then you're not getting the loaded voltage.

Timber29

My Feedback: (1)

yeah it didn't dawn on me about putting a load on it. Soon as I did it droped it to the right volts. Thanks

blikseme300

My Feedback: (118)

If current capacity is a concern simply put 2 or more in parallel.

I have switched to all A123's on board my planes, including ignition packs. The ignitions are a mix of Rcxcel single & twins, Falkon single & twins, 3W twins & CH ignitions single & twins.

Be aware that voltage drop across the diode is proportional to current flow so simply using a volt meter is of no value. The 1N400x series are fine for ignition applications. The difference between numbers is the reverse voltage.

I would not recommend using diodes for the RX and servos.

Bliksem

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I am thinking aout trying a RCeXL ignition kill swith w/BEC. Here is the web site. Has anyone used one of these on the DLE ignitiona with a Life4 or A123 battery?

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/r...-with-bec.html

It must a a RF filter built into it because it pulls the power from the reciever.