SJN

When installing the Canard, what is suppsed to "rub" against the bulb on the fuselage?

Is it the soft honeycome canard material, or the rib that I just glued in that is supposed to butt up against the fuselage ?



SJ.

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

SJ,

I worked on this very thing last night....Using a drum sander on a Dremel tool I trimmed the canards so that they fit better against the blister. I ended up removing most of the material from each end if the blister reliefs on the canards. I stopped trimming when the clearances were equal distance all of the way around the canard relief. The rib is suposed to "rub" against the fuselage but I plan on installing a thin nylon washer to act as a bearing.

I've been following Todd's (lov2flyrc) recommendations for installing the canards....MUCH easier!!!! See for yourself at: www.lov2flyrc.com Click on "EuroSport Modifications".

Kevin

SJN

Thanks...


Yea...I saw the mod.......but I seems like the stock way to do it will do for me.
Seems solid enough.

jettset99

My Feedback: (7)

Hi Guys for the washer you can use a Glow plug washer! fits perfect and they have a curve in them that matches the blister,,,, some are thicker than others wich is good, I found out when you glue the root ribs in one might need more washers than the other, I was able to set the distance away from the fuse perfectly. Good Luck Paul AJUSA

SJN

EXELENT!!!

Perfect fit.

I actualy have lots of these in my old pit box

Thanks Paul!



I just balanced mine with some coins and Grey rubber RTV

SJN

.

SJN

Got another question.

Are you guys using the stock elevon horns, and links provided in the kit ?

The hole in the horn is larger than the pin on the supplied link. This creates some slop.



What have you done ?

Ian R

I never really liked the look of the fibreglass type horns. So I fitted from the first build the robart ball link horns sunk into the surface on a ply base

I felt the fibreglass horn would wear over time

Hope this helps

Ian

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

I use the stock horns but dont use the clevis provided. I install Hanger 9 Allum arms on the servos and use dubro 4/40 ball links on both ends, eliminates slop completely and provides a much more secure linkage...

Todd

BMT

Hi Todd,
My ES as well as those of another local flyer have a perculiar problem. Because the hinge surface is curved it tends to snap slightly "overcentre", resulting in the surface never quite returning to the original angle. In fact when the aileron deflects it caised the rear wing skin in front of the aileron to deflect up and down... Anyone else observed this or seen the effect in flight behaviour?
I am now considering splitting the ailerons with 2 servos to ease the problem.
Andre Baird

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

Andre,

I've noticed that mine also "snaps" but not enough to cause any concern as my digital servos with 220 inch ounces of torque don't have any centering problems. (JR 8611's) What servos are you using??? Even if I were using a servo with less torque I still don't believe it would be much of a problem on mine. I did flex the hinge on mine to the extremes to loosen them up a little before installing the linkages, and I installed a piece of balsa triangular stock in the hinge area (ala BVM KingCat horizontal stab/elevator) to support the hinge area. If you deflect the elevon to full up you will see that there is no support for the hinge, from the hinge line forward to the vertical support in the wing. (About 5/8th's of an inch) The skin alone is all the hinge support that is there!!! Take a razor plane and plane the back side of the triangular stock so that the tri-stock will fit fush with the top of the wing and the vertical support. This will allow the tri-stock to fit flush as there is a rather large fillet of glue in this area. Let us know if this helps your problem.

Kevin

seanreit

My Feedback: (60)

Kevin, can I get a pic sometime of what you just described? I spent all day at Todd's yesterday working on two Euro's. I'm sold. We're going to fly them both today at Ocala. What an awesome Jet.

Sean

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

Sean,

I'll be glad to post a few pics of this but it will be Monday evening before they will be up. I'm at work right now burnin' the midnight oil and still have a full day w/the family today!!!

I've done one wing already but the other wing is still untouched. I'll post a mini "how to" on this to make it crystal clear. You won't be sorry that you made the EuroSport plunge....I can't wait to get mine in the air!!! What color are you going to buy???

Kevin

seanreit

My Feedback: (60)

I'm gonna wait the month or two for Kanak's version. So far as I know there are two color options, yellow base with red and vice versa. If that's the case, I'm gonna go with the Red base.

The euro's appear to be a lot more popular with jet guys down here in Fl than back home. I only know of one or two that show up in the Texas circuit and I saw three in Daytona Beach yesterday.

I got to see a video of a guy misjudge a landing on a euro, punched his gear up through the wing. The wing ended up at Todd's house and I got a really good inside view of the gear mount system. Todd explained to me the difference between how CA does it and how the new one will be engineered.

Nothing would have saved the landing in the video, but I can clearly see for everyday flying that the new intended gear mount structure is better.

Anyway, I'm quite excited, and today is going to be a GREAT day!

Sean

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

Sean,

A great day, huh....You lucky guy!!! Still raining here and chilly.

I was going to get one of Don's but didn't want to wait. I probably should have given the mods Don is doing on his Euro. Was the repair to the wing of the damaged Euro hard to do???


Kevin

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

PS----I also installed landing lights on the tip tanks of the Euro...Super easy to do!!! I bought some really bright LED's. The ones that you normally get range from 300 to 3500mc (millicandella) The ones that I found are 10,000mc!!!! Bright enough to easily see in broad daylight!!! They have a 15 degree viewing angle. These super bright LED's are used in automobiles for turn signals and such. I'll later post some pics of the landing lights too if anyone is interested.

Kevin

seanreit

My Feedback: (60)

Todd's half way through the repair. Essentially he ca'd the punch through together and glassed the inside of the surface. It was right through the lettering, so it's never gonna look perfect but it will work. On the inside, they've got balsa rib's and the light ply (i think it was light ply) flex plate attached to the balsa ribs. It really does look mickey mouse to me. (I use mickey mouse generically meaning inadequate).

There are several places that are suspect for failure points. As I was learning a lot about the jet yesterday, I don't remember everything I heard or saw, but I believe Todd has some mod's related to beefing the structure up that will increase what it can handle. Todd's got like 250 flights on his, and has had some rough landings. So far as I know his beefing up of the area has handled all he's thrown at it and maybe busted an aeropoxy or glue joint at worst. (at least not punched a gear through).

Having been through the landing gear system on the new isobars, I'm all about having tough system there as for me landing is where my airplanes are gonna take the most abuse. The Isobar was rated for like a 4 or 5 g landing. That's good shi*t!

The new system described to me is going to be as stout as you can really get in an in the wing gear system.

Sorry about your weather!

Sean

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

Sean,

I remembered seeing a pic of a EuroSport at a jet rally with the lettering covered in white. I asked the owner what he used to cover the lettering....He just used vinyl graphics tape similar to trim Monocote. It looked good too, kinda cleaned up the plane a bit giving it a more crisp look. Maybe Todd or the owner could look into this as a method of covering up the wound.[8D]

Kevin

BMT

Hi Kevin,
I am also using 8511's (=8611). Saw the overlap skin you mentioned but suspect they left it like that to allow for the bent hingeline...
On the subject of U/C, there is no way the std mounts will hold as a few locals found out already. Recent experience with a heavy hotspot made me decide to split the strut where it exits the retract and join it with 6mm (1/4") or bigger mild/silver steel and grub screws. On the HS I went trough quite a few when doing x-wind landings. Easier to replace than composite wing repair...Still I am going to put as much CF in there as I can....
Cheers
Andre

seanreit

My Feedback: (60)

Well, we flew the snot out of Todd's Eurosport today. Have to say, one of the best airplanes I've ever flown! Soon as we get this YA F15 out of the way, gonna go Euro!

The flight envelope is something to see, however, to actually do it, what a woodie!

Todd actually has a vinyl machine and can do those types of stickers. (what doesn't this guy have.........)

Had a great time. Spent some time with Dave and met some new friends down there in Ocala, like Glenn and Don.

George, if you lurk in and read this, send me an email.

Sean

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

As always..... Pleasure to have you around Sean! Thanks for the help finishing up Pete's Euro, too bad we cant build together on a regular basis. Glad you finally got some Euro time! As I said, you cant fly one and walk away....One flight is all it takes to get hooked. You flew the euro as if you had 100 flights on it... nice flying Sean!
Boy was I feeling "Off" yesterday []..... Just one of those days where I felt real rusty, brain to thumb signals were definitely not working nominally [sm=bananahead.gif].....

Andre,
What I don't quite understand is C-Arf knows this is a serious weak link in their airframe. Why they don't make the effort to strenthen this area adequately is beyond me, some simple and minor changes to the materials and configuration of the gear mounts would substantially increase their strength. [sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]. Dont know why they refuse to fix the problem but seems like a stupid move to me. I imagine they will wake up when they are no longer selling eurosports because Fiberclassics and Mecca have a better airframe [sm=stupid.gif].
Todd

Chris Z

My Feedback: (24)

Hi Kevin,

I'd like to see you tip tank light installation.....Please post some pictures.
Where did you get the lights?

Chris

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Andre,
I have not seen this as severe as your describing? Because there is some washout in the wings the elevon does tend to snap slightly around center but have never seen one so bad that it flexes the wing skin?? Have you tried flexing the elevon (linkage off) to it's extremes a bit to break the hinge in? I dont thing splitting the elevons will resolve your problem and actually may induce additional ones. We have found when you split the elevons it distorts the hinge line slightly, this distortion causes the bottom hinge gap overhang to bind with the elevon in down deflection. Only solution to this is to remove the overhang and attach a new strip to the bottom skin. Personally, I would have the wings replaced (the warp could cause some adverse flight)but, as Kevin said if your using 8611's (8511's) they should be strong enough to overcome the spring around center.
Todd

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Kevin,
I picked up some of these lights a while ago from Paul Hopkins to do the same thing, just havent gotten around to installing them yet. Looking forward to seeing how thy look!
Todd

SJN

What have you done to prevent the elevon striking the TE of the wing ?

I have put some gap seal tape, that insures that the elevon always is tucked under the TE of the wing....... Wil this work ok ?

SJ.