Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Tried an experiment that had FANTASTIC results.

I painted a test panel with Black Krylon paint and let the paint dry 48 hours.

Then I clear coated it with 2 thin coats DupliColor Acrylic Clear Enamel and let that dry for 48 hours.

Then I poured some 15% nitro fuel on it and let it sit there for about 5 - 6 hours before wiping it off.

NO BLACK PAINT ON THE WIPING RAG !!! and the surface was not sticky either.

At $4.50 for a 12oz spray can I have found a new clear coat. I got mine at an AutoWorld auto parts house.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Now try it on white and see if it yellows!

Electriceddie

Campy,


If you do test with white, lets us know. The only thing is when we talk yellowing are we talking yellowing from a chemical reaction or from age? Age may take your testing into the future. But I would be interested in your results.

PS. I really think it is Great when guys try creative experimentation like this and they share there results. Good work!!!!


Ed

parrthd

me too.........since i'm about to paint my first cowl, wheel pants, and wing struts!!!

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

It never dawned on me to try it on white. Will set up another test panel and have at it. I will post the results.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Set up the test panel with white Krylon and sprayed 1/2 with the Dupli-Color clear acrylic enamel.

The white is just a hair darker than the non clearcoated side. If the 2 were not side by side you would never see the difference.

At present I have a 40 watt "daylight" flourescent bulb shining on it to see what "sunshine" will do to the clear coat. I should know more in a couple of days.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

What exact Duplicolor Clear are you using? Does it carry an automotive label or is it one of thier house brand paints?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Wow, a "Clear" that doesn't yellow! Thanks Campy!

amilder

If it's UV that causes yellowing you need to put it out in the sun. Flourescent bulbs give off only a little UV...
Give it a day or three in the sun- I'd be interested in th result too.
Andy

Electriceddie

I think yellowing with most clearcot products occurs over a period of time, like a year or two. I would like to see the yellowing effect test results after age, but I don't that would not be possibleto test.

build light

Dupli-Color Is a brand name and not a "house" brand. Dupli-Color is not for all around use and is not marketed as such. Dupli-Color specialises in automtive color touch up paints in both spray and the small bottles with the brush in the cap.
It is expensive to stock a great deal of colors and I don't know if I have ever seen a store carry both brush and spray for that reason.

Keep in mind that since it is automotive usage it was meant to be out in the sun quite a bit.

Does it have UV protective in it? I have no idea.

Dupli-Color has quite a few specialty paints you could look for. Check out their website:
http://www.duplicolor.com/

Possibly someone there could answer the yellowing with age question.

Robert

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

If it is Dupli-Color "Truck Van & SUV" clear top coat, it will get soft with glow fuel. I know.[&o]
It is labeled as an "Acrylic Laquer", on the back of the can.

build light

I don't have his can in front of me but Campy says it is the DupliColor Acrylic Clear Enamel in his first post. I may be wrong (its been proven before) But I have never seen acrylic enamal turn into acrylic laquer just by turning the can around.

Still Polyurethane is more resistant than either the enamal or laquer. this stuff could fail after a number of repeated glow fuel applications. Especially if you use high nitro.

More wait and see, Robert

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

This is what I used, that got soft. Not sure if it the same as he used.

build light

Last time I tried clearcoating one of my planes I tried clear polyurethane spray. Came out beautful. It was an Ace Grasshopper that I had painted white.
It was indeed fuel proof though I put too many coats on trying to get a "glass" look. Poly just doesn't come out as crystal clear as laquer does.

After about 3 or 5 years it turned a beautiful shade of amber. I didn't recall wanting amber. Just looked wrong on this model. It would have made a better charm for a braclet... A big, big bracelet.

Robert

Rick W

My Feedback: (20)

[:@]

Hi Guys,

I use a lot of Duplicolor paint for verious projects. The clear I use on my planes is the Duplicolor clear Engine enamel not the truck and van clear. I just painted a Bonanza with their truck and van colors, let it sit about two weeks and then cleared it with their engine enamel. Outstanding results. Don't know about yellowing but I guess I'll find out.

All my flying is done with 10-15% nitro and no problem with the engine clear....

Rick

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I used the "Engine Enamel" to paint my Ziroli Dr-1. I figured if it was gas powered, engine enamel would be a natural. So far after 2 years, it has done quite well.
I have read that Minwax water based "Policrylic" will stand up to glow fuel, so I have used it on a couple of model recently. On the gas model it has worked well so far (about a month now), however I have not flown the glow powered model yet. I have read that it needs at least a week to cure, before using it with glow fuel. Supposedly, it wont yellow either.

Rick W

My Feedback: (20)

Hello,

I use a lot of water base poly prior to priming. I don't use plastic covering so I cover everything with silk, silkspan, or koverall. I give the whole plane a coat of minwax sanding sealer on the bare wood and let dry, then an easy sanding. I then put on a coat of water poly let dry.Cover with my favorite covering and then two coats of poly sanded between coats. Then I use an automotive two part or acylic laquer primer, followed by either acylic enamel, spray can, or water base colors. (Auto Air). After drying two coats of Duplicolor engine enamel clear. Very light finish and fuel proof.

I have tryed waterbase poly on my engine stand as a top coat and it was a total failure. I've used both Minwax and Olympic with the same results. I don't recomend it for a top coat if your running nitro and/or alcohol for fuel.

Check this out, www.autoaircolors.com I've been using their products with outstanding results. Inexpensive and a ton of colors to chose from.

Rick

saramos

I painted my TF Spitfire with exterior latex house paint and a clearcoat of Waterbased Clear Satin Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane Oudoor No.2502 in a rattle can. I run 10% fuel and it works fine. I used the satin, not the gloss. I've heard that the waterbase urethanes don't yellow as much as the oil based urethanes. So far, I am pleased with the results.

Scott

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Here is an update on the Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear Enamel.

Gave it 48 hours with a "daylight" fluorscent bulb plus 24 hours with a "GrowLux" fluorescent bulb (high in UV rays) to better simulate the sunlight. No yellowing so far. I will leave the test panel outside for several days now to see if that nakes a difference.

So far this is looking like a winner.


To eliminate confusion:

Dupli-Color "Truck & Van" paint is USUALLY an acrylic LACQUER (but fuel proof). Be VERY CAREFUL if you use this as you will need to apply this 1st. You can put enamel over lacquer, but not the other way around. MOST of the paints we use for models (Krylon, Rustoleum, Ultracote, etc ) are enamels.

Dupli-Color has spray cans of acrylic lacquer AND acrylic enamel. To be safe, I suggest using the acrylic enamel for your clear coat. With the acrylic enamel you do not have to worry about compatibility problems.

As I stated earlier, I found the acrylic enamel in an auto parts store.

As for waterbase polyurethane/Polycrylic - my experience with the MinWax Polycrylic has shown that you need to let the poly dry for a minimum of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel residue AND do not leave the residue on the finish for more than 4 hours. At about 4 hours, the poly begins to soften. Using these caveats, I have had no problems with 10% nitro fuel and various reports indicate that 15% nitro is also OK. The advantage to the Polycrylic (or other waterbase polyurethanes ) is that they are available in a variety of "glosses" and do not yellow with age or in the sun. The Polycrylic will not provide as high a shine/gloss as the Dupli-Color acrylic clear/Ultracote or Lusterkote clear, but this is a good thing for warbirds and other planes that do not need/use the ultra high shine.

whatwheel

Not knowing what kind of paint is on my CMP zero do you think I could put the the acrylic enamel l clear over it and does it come in flat?

Thanks for any info. Glenn.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

If you are not sure of the type of paint use an acrylic clear enamel OR a waterbase polyurethane (my experience has been with Minwax Polycrylic, but all the waterbase polyurethanes should be pretty much the same ). See my last message about the polyurethane.

I have not seen the Dupli-Color acrylic clear enamel in anything but a gloss. I have seen Krylon clear in satin, semi-gloss and gloss, however I have not done any testing on it. You might want to do a test panel using white Krylon paint and the Krylon satin clear and post your results. I do not remember if the Krylon clear is labeled as an acrylic or not.

whatwheel

Thanks for the reply,Campy.
Glenn.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

a great water based poly would be Varathane Diamond finish it is a floor an furniture product comes in several sheen levels and can be used for glassing as well as a clear coat.
I have also found it to touch up well for repair with a airbrush.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Final Update.

The panel has been sitting outside for 13 days. Brought it in and cleaned the dirt/dust/etc off. The panel looks good. Except for the initial MINOR shade difference (see first few posts ) there is no yellowing I can see.

This appears to be a bonified winner.