ravenlunatic

hey everyone,

just wanted to share with you all that i'm getting the FLM LGC EX TPVs from SMF store. i also got the servo plate and servo mounts. i can't wait to get my hands on them. i'll be sure to post pics when i get them.

FLM users: have you had any troubles with FLM? if so please post up and let me know.

Thanks! Raven.

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

Only very minor hole placement issues...fixed in a matter of seconds really. Click the link for my install.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60...tm.htm#6081635

ravenlunatic

thanks go-to, i didn't get the skid plate, do you think it's necessary?

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

The bottom of the TVP is pretty much level, and the bottom of my dual-disc brake was level with the bottom of the TVP. It would take a serious bad landing to hit the brakes, but it's still possible.

Why take a chance is my motto. The skid plate was only $10-12 more.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I never ran a center skid plate but to give some protection when I went to the HPI LCG chassis I did put a brace on mine.

ravenlunatic

hmm...i guess i'll check it out to see if i'll need the center skid or not.

horeable

I have to wonder if the flm engine plate is any better than the hpi one. I cracked mine in 2 places. I wouldnt see that happening with the hpi one, although it might be more prone to bending.

ravenlunatic

wow! what building are you jumping your savage off of? lol seriously though, how did you break the engine plate?

i guess one plus about FLM is that they'll replace any bent or broken part.

rcnitrohead

Well there are two bad things about their plate.

1. Its kind of thin, like 2.5mm
2. Its smaller than the HPI one, so you have less gearing choices which pissed me off when I got mine[:@]

ravenlunatic

i see, well i guess i'll just stick with the stock engine plate then. i thought that the FLM plate would be a upgrade but i guess not. thanks!

Bash-m-up

My Feedback: (7)

I had the same TVP's on my Savage X. FLM Ext LCG's and I thought they were great, helped out the handling, but I bought the skid plate as well too. Once you get them on you will notice that you will need it, you can check my gallery for pics, I have a new CPU so there aren't any I can readily upload. Best part about FLM is their "Extreme Abuse Warranty". Hope you like them as much as I did. To help out on the install, don't tighten all the screws down to start. Just get them started in there holes and then once you have them all started in their right places go ahead and tighten them all down. If you start with one and go to the next etc, etc, you will have alignment issues with them. Good luck and post some pics when you get em on.

rcnitrohead

I dont think you can use the HPI plate on the FLM TVP's though[&:][:@]

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

4mm thick the same as the TVP and I have no idea what you're talking about as far as size goes. Gearing choices comes down to the motor screw slots. Make them longer and you're back in business. I've got a 20t clutch bell on my truck and I didn't need to enlarge the slots any.



The only thing I ran into was the motor-mount screws up top on the *passenger* side. The cap head hex screws don't fit under the TVP, but FLM was kind enough to include some button-head hex screws that pass under oh-so-closely. Can be seen in the following picture. You can also see that my motor is pushed really far over to that side of the truck.




The skid plate makes a world of difference as far as rigidity goes. If you break a motor plate with a skid plate in place...well let's just say you're either a terrible driver or purposefully trying to break something. That or landing directly on the motor heat sink from a high drop.

horeable

the plate is not the same thickness as the chassis, it is thinner. not 2.5 mm but 3.1(chassis is 4.7). since there are so many cutouts on it there are some places to break.



I wont claim to be the best driver, or easy on my truck, but i dont ever remeber doing anything that extreme that would have broken this plate. I run with all the metal braces and the skid plate.

I do think that there are some more limited choices with gearing as well when using the flm. for instance you cant go with a smaller CB and a smaller spur, cause then the motor cant reach the spur. Of course, there would still be a combination that works the same.

The stock motor plate does fit fine with the lcg ext chassis.

Also the abuse warranty is barley worth it for me in this case. I need to pay 5 dollars plus shipping for it. the flm plate costs 9 new and the stock is like 6 dollars locally.


That said again i think the chassis is great, but if i had to do it over again i wouldnt get the extended or the engine plate.

ravenlunatic

hmm... i see, i didn't get the engine plate, but i'm starting to rethink about the skid plate.

BTW is there a noticeable weight difference from before FLM and after FLM?

rcnitrohead

Oh ok, sorry for the misunderstanding then[:@] I have NO idea how you are running a 20T CB, I'm running 18/49 and my dogbone is rubbing against one of the motor mount screws. I had to file the screw down halfway and still had fitting problems, I got so pissed I accidently stripped that screw nearest the dogbone but right now its threadlocked in there

ravenlunatic

as soon as i got all the threadlock in place, i took it out for a test run on half tank. it was the best half tank of nitro i've ever spent!

there was a bit of work involved to make them fit but not much.

i have to say the handling difference is huge! no more need for the wheeliy bar though. oh well, it still hauls balls. now that the truck is longer, all the power goes to pushing it forward instead of lifting the front end. turns at full throtle with out worry of rolling over



as for looks. well it's bigger alright. with the 40s on it looks pretty good to me.

here it is!

osuwins

very nice ravenlunatic, you going to do any other flm parts? heres my new setup, i love the flm tvp`s had to do some modding to get the back roolbar to work

MiamizFinest

i just wanted to say FLM makes some awsome stuff and there warrantee is completely tru i managed to bent one of there TVPS and they replaced it and only charged 13 dollars (mostlypaying for the shipping to send it back to me)


FLM does have a issue with hole line ups but very minor dremeling gets that out of the way quick

ravenlunatic

i've got the servo plate, and servo mounts also. thats pretty genius tho put a roll bar in the back. does your savy still wheely? also are you using the same body or is it the LST,MGT size body?

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

No problemo man...I was just stating what my experience was.

My dogbone isn't directly rubbing against the hex screw, but the part the dogbone fits *into* rubs. It's the input to the diff. What I did was dremel away some of the diameter of the head on that screw. Easy enough, but still a gripe as far as I'm concerned. I contacted FLM about my issues, and they replied that it should all fit just fine on a stock truck (which mine IS). They don't seem interested in addressing these minor issues...that or I talked to the wrong person that day.

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

Agreed, but my issue happened to be hole size. The locating holes at the front and rear of the TVP were a HAIR too small. Minor round-file grinding and that was done.

osuwins

hey ravenlunatic, i was never able to get the sav.25 to wheelie, and the rollbar thanks,the back end was just to exposed, ive landed on the head before bent a fin and brook my engine block so im all about protecting my investment if there not,. thanks, oh yea im useing the same body but i have a proline ford 150 body im working on

rcnitrohead

Yeah go to, I sent them an email and had a similar experience[:@]

go-to

My Feedback: (2)

That's poopy. These MINOR issues fixed could put their products over the top. Silly people... [&:]