Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><input type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" />I did it again, just had to have it. You know what I mean

I know, I'm in the middle of major warbird build, and I need to repair my Extra and the Sukhoi could do with a bit of sprucing up but Icould'nt resist.

The Cap 10 is one of my all time favorites, I nearly bought an old Yellow Aircraft kit at a swap meet eight years ago but stupidly did not. They discontinues the model and to my knowledge no-one was producing a good kit for a 1/4 scale version. That is until I found this company in Canada, MR Aeronautics. They have a nice selection of models including the Mudry CAP 10b. I had to do it and a week later there t was on my doorstep.
<a href="https://mraerodesign.securicom.ca/en/products/info.cfm?ProduitID=47">
</a>https://mraerodesign.securicom.ca/en...m?ProduitID=15

Over the next month or two or three etc. etc. tec. I will publish my experience building this kit. Feel free to comment or ask questoins.
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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><input type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" />So a few notes about the kit:

No fancy box, All parts came simply wrapped in cardbaord and shipped prompltly via CA post.

Wood quality is second to none both balsa and ply parts are of the highest quality.

laser cutting is niceley done. the fuselage sides have a cool jigsaw interlock the helps keep them straight and strong during assemply.

Plans are beutiful and in some sheets, multicolour. I like the fact they were printed on a 24" roll printer so they fit more easily on my work bench.

Hardware is all high quality DuBro stuff. Thanks for that.

No instruction manual or any notes other than a few small diagrams on the plans. This is a shame, with a simple manual even a novice builder could build this terrific model. Without it, many things are left to experience. I hope this thread will help out.

Fiberglass parts are strong but will need a lot of cleanup.

Canopy is a huge thing almost a foot wide. It will look very cool when tinted a bit, however Mine is a bit rough and scratched from the mold.
No provisions for: Mounting cowel, Mounting engine
Plans show landing gear mounting wooden parts but none are provided.

New canopy is on the way.. no charge... Thanks Martin








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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><!Session data><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" />Day one:

I decided to start with the fuselage. I removed all the associated fuse parts form the laser ct sheets, they basically fell out and needed only the slightest cleanup. With no manual, the best thing to do is grab a glass or two of your favorite beverage, in my case a bottle of Chamay, and plan your attack. First lamminate all the formaers that need it then the fuselage sides..

I used a littled trick to laminate the formers: Use 2 hr finishing epoxy or a good wood glue. Coat both parts with a thin coat of glue but leave a few spots clear. On those spots use a small drop of medium CA. This will tack the parts together so that when you put them under pressure to cure, they won't slip around and become misaligned. I use some old thick glass panes to keep the parts nice and flat as they cure.

The fuselage sides go together like a jigsaw!! use medium CA with no accellerator.

Glue the 1/4 longeron along the top of each side as shown on the plans.

I noticed that the formers FU5A, FU6A, FU5D and FUS2(x2) made a nice box. I used the plans to get the angles correct then jigged an glued the assembly together.

I enlarged the holes in FU4A thru FU9A to allow for some nyrod to ease the threading of Pull Pull rudder cables later.

Then I marked a center point and test fit all the formers with the side upside down over the plans centerline. Clamp everything in place for dry fit. (You have to hang the rear end and tail plane crutch over the edge of the bench to allow the rest to sit nice and flat.)

Formers FU4A to FU10A now fitted and clamped add FU3A. Iused the wing hold down plates to help square things up.

Once I was happy wit the jig, I applied thin then medium CA with no accellerater to all the joints excet the Wing plates, they will be Epoxied later.

Time for bed...


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markdfw

My Feedback: (4)

M - The model looks great! Can't wait to see you flying this one!
Markdfw

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

That tab-lock system is pretty cool.

Who found the kit ??

P-47 Man

That is going to be one great looking Cap 10 when you get this "baby" finished.  I'm looking forward to seeing you fly this one.</p>

Dewey</p>

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Sorry Bipeman.. you did!!!

Thanks man, make me spend another grand I don't have!!!!


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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Cool, I just found this in French Navy trainer colours. That would make it a "War Bird"....

What do you think of the scheme?<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><!Session data><input type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" /><div id="refHTML"></div><input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><!Session data><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /><div id="refHTML"></div><input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /><!Session data><input type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" /><div id="refHTML"></div><input type="hidden" id="gwProxy"><!Session data></input><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /><div id="refHTML"></div>

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

Just getting you back for this silly electric airplane you caused me to buy!

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

Ireally like it a lot! Very unusual warbird!

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

Don't forget the safety placards on the intrument panel

"Ouvrir le canopie avant <span class="definition">embrasure</span> le Champagne"

and

"<span class="definition"><span style="font-weight: bold;">No T</span></span><span class="definition">ournoiement moment consumer le Fromage Brie"</span>

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

LOL

My rough translation: "Open the canope before consuming champane" and " No aerobatics while eating Brie".

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

Close,

"Open the canopy before opening the Champagne"

"No spins while eating Brie"

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Day 2....

As you can see the rear botton logerons are in place. I measured the angle on the plans and made some angle brackets to help support the forward most former.

I re-cut the tail gear mounting plate to fit both rear bays. this will better support the tail whell assembly. FYIKlett no longer make r/c parts so use the DuBro 1/4 scale unit. it looks about as good. ( note remains of Extra 300 in the rubbish bin behind!!!)

All sanded down and it's starting to look like a ..boat, I mean a plane..

The large green bag contains about 30lbs of tire balance lead (free form local tyre dealer). Very useful to hold things down with the need of clamps or pins. (FYIthis is a great tool for wing sheeting as it will form to the wing shape)

Turning the fuse right side up, now the firewall can be glued in with slow epoxy.

With the fuse lined up straight along the plans, make sure the firewall and front end is all square as the glue cures. ( The weired blocks of wood each side make sure the carpenters clamp applies even pressure to the joint)

The firewall will be pinned with wooden dowel and shored up with 1/2" triangle stock later.



More to come....

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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Day 3....

Rear turtle deck and front sheeting.

Making sure all is straight over the plans, add the top formers and then stringers. the front former is at an angle so make play a template from the plans to get the angle right.

Still using the clamp to make sure things stay straight, add the top and bottom 1/4" stringers. this fit nicely in the laser cut slots.

Mounting the cowl....

No provisions are given for this on the plans. My guess it that it is supposed to overlap the fuselage and screw on from the sides. Ithink this model deserves a cleaner look than that so I decided to flush mount the cowl.

I trimmed the cowel about 1/4" and made sure the angle matched the plan. Then I cut a former from 1/4" play that will be the mounting ring when finished.

I glued the ply fromer into the cowel but recessed it 1/4" to allow for a mounting flange on the firewall later.

Now the tricky part.

Trace the outside of the cowel to make a light ply template. tack glue this to the firewall with even spacing all round (about 3/32").This will let you know exactley where to sand your sheeting and corner blocks down to.

Once all the sheeting it applied and you have planed and sanded the corner blocks down to the templet, remove the template and voila! you now have a flush fitting cowel.

I hope that made some sort of sense.

I also added the last side longrons and shaped them to a nice arc to support the covering.

Now its time to pin the firewall sides and shore it up with triangle stock behind.



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bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

Where did you get that big flat container below the bench?

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Container store. perfect for 36" balsa storage.<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy"><!Session data></input><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /><div id="refHTML"></div>

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Cockpit floor:

The kit calls for the floor to be glued to the top rail of the fuse. i wanted to recess it abit more to make it a more scale.

I cut the center former down than cut a piece of light 1/8" light ply to fit down snuggly into the fuse. This must fit well as it is actually structual. I used some scrap ply to replce the bottom of the former after i cut the wrong side

Using 1/4" square i rienforsded th efloor on the botton side.

Now there is almost room to sit in there.

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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Day 4

Rudder servo and tank mount.

So here are a couple of areas that need a bit of inventive engineering.

First the rudder servo needs a plate made form scrap 1/8" play. i used 1/2" triangle stock to reinforce it and glued ut between the formers, so that the servo arm would be level with the cable tubes. Use 30min epoxy for this.

I need the tank to be centered and supports with enough room for me to get my hands past it to get to the cowel mounting screws. This will make more sense later!!

The mount doubles as a battery tray and will be screwed to the firewall and former with 4/40 screws and T-nuts. that way it can be easily removed for maintenence.


That's enough for today. Its time to grab a cold beer and stare at this beauty for a while..

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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Day 5

Finish off the cowel mounting:


I cut a piece of1/4" ply just undersize of the cowel and sanded to the match the angle of the cowel sides.

Next I traced the inside of the cowel mount ring onto the new support part and cut the inside away to match. Then Drill through the both parts.

Used thick ca to tack glue the new part to the firewall. Do this while it is fitted int othe cowel. Pull the cowel away then drill through the holes into the firewall. i will be using 1/4" nylon bolts to secure the cowel so that sthe size drill I used.

remove all parts, put a good bead of glue between the new support ring and firewall, then with bolts and wing nuts sandwitch the whole thing together. When dry the cowel will pull away leave a perfectly aligned cowel mount.

The wing nuts will be replaced by T-Nuts but I still have to order those!!

The final assembly will use Hex head nylon bolts so a long allen wrench can be used to get beside the tank and secure the cowel. I said it would make sense....


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Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Day 6...

Cleanup

I have no idea how this happens.

Time to get ready for Monaville Scale fly-in.<input type="hidden" id="gwProxy"><!Session data></input><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /><div id="refHTML"></div>

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Another cool warbird design...

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

I don't like that one too well.

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

I agree, the French one is better. I can't find any pictures of the Australian one.

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

DAY7..

OK, so now to mount the engine:


First, obtain a good drawing of the engine mounting dimensions. The one that comes with the CRRC50 is not complete, however they emailed me this one that is pretty good.

I need to mount the engine 95mm away from the firewall, that's nearly 3 3/4"! Too long for stand offs I think!

So a box is what I need. The engine comes with nice 22mm standoffs so that means the box neadsa to be offset 73mm. I used Sketchup (free form Google) to draw up a quick 3D plan. The idea is that the box will pass through a hole I will cut in the firewall. It will then be glued and reinforced with 1/2" triangle stock both on the front and rear of the firewall. That should be strong enough. The holes in the box allow access to nylok nuts on the back of the front plate.



I do not want to use T-Nuts (blind nuts) as I feel in a 1/4" ply firewall they will weeken the wood too much, plus the engine need to be as high in the box as posible to match the correct thrust line and 10-32 T-nuts are quite large in diameter..


The box is contructed of 1/4" high qlty ply. NOTLITEPLY. The front plate will be pinned with 1/8" dowel after gluing for aditional support.

I am not commited to this design yet...any suggestions to simplify or improve on this are welcome!!!

Bipeman suggested bolting on the whole thing to the firewall to prevent having to cut into it. That would maintain the firewalls strength. Problem is finding a 5" bolt... Maybe 10-32 threaded rod and nuts on both sides!!!!