JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

Well, yesterday was the day of the maiden flight of my AW Extra 300. with a DLE 55 engine. First i put 4 oz of
Stilh HP Ultra oil on 1 gallon of gas as JediJody from View Valley RC recommend me, and double check everything.
I decide to brake in the engine on the ground one tank at 2800 rpms aprox. Was checking the heat of the engine
and was fine, not over heat problems.

Im so amazed of this DLE engine...it took just 3 turns and then bang!!! it was running, first time, double check the
tach, etc...and let it rest for an hour or so to get this airplane on the air. Next tank i re tight everything to be sure
and keep the cowl off to get better cooling for the engine. The second start was just 2 turns, setup my throttle cut
and all and then fly. I didnt adjust anything on the high and low needle, it was perfect, transition was so smooth
and fast. Hope to see the results on the next gallons, just want to let everyone knows what great is DLE(yeah i know
its just first gallons) and also to say thanks to JedyJodi for the great help on my break in. Will adjust the neebles
when the engines tells me when.

Second tank and maiden.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtPd6CuRpQU[/youtube]








Regards</p>

Edited by Rcpilot

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The engine runs good because it is a good engine. I don't like the idea of cold running a new engine. It does the engine no favors and does little to nothing for the break in. There's another in this forum that learned that the hard way. No engine is adjusted perfect out of the box. I think all are quite pleased that you had a great and successful day but don't fool yourself into thinking the engine is already adjusted correctly. As the engine breaks in you will likely see evidence of that.

Break in an engine using normal running temps. The engine MUST heat cycle to break in. Using more oil for the break in process is a good thing since it minimizes many of the frictional effects left over from the manufacturing processes, while rinsing those wear contaminants from the engine.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

thanks for your comment, of couse im aware of the adjustment should be done soon, i just saw a few friends with another brand of engine starting with D also...and they took forever to start their engines brand new from the box.

I just wanted to share my experience on first gasser and of course start a thread for feedbacks on the future!!!.

Regards,

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Overall ya done good and I'm even more pleased that your experience was so much better than those of your flying associates. My post was for educational purposes, not chastisement. Hopefully you did not take it with a negative cast. My mannerisms are quite direct by some standards.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

not at all my friend, your experience will help me a lot on future things...as some other members also helped. Any advice for next tanks?. How many gallons i can swith to 22x10 propeller?.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

You wanna see if your needles are close to where they should be? Pull your sparkplug. Reading the sparkplug on a 2 stroke will tell you if your good to go or on your way to a meltdown.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

mrbig thanks for your comment, i know there is websites with pictures..of normal automotive plugs but for 2 strokes?. Any idea to where to look?

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Pe's website has a really good article on it. Can anybody post a link to his site?

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I've just finished breaking in and tweaking the needles on my new DLE55. It's in a Sig Sundancer Giant scale and I have been running HP Ultra in it also... about a 30:1 mix and after running about 2 1/2 tanks through it it has progressively gotten stronger. I have a Xoar 22 x 8 prop on it and I just tached it tonight and it's topping out at just over 7000 Rpm. I need to replace an ignition on/off switch that vibrates to off.... and then balance the CG and it's ready. I will say... it's such a nice and easy motor for a first time gasser. I can't wait to get it in the air now !

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I too am running a brand new DLE-55, on a Thunder Tiger TOC-1 Yak 54. I ran one tank of Pennzoil Aircooled Engine Oil at 32:1, idling and taxiing around the back yard. I adjusted the needles to a bit rich of peak and just flew the first flight yesterday. The low end is a bit rich, and next week I should be able to fly it regularly and fine tune the needles. After one gallon of 32:1 I'll be switching to 40:1 for a few gallons, then maybe stay with the Penz at 40:1 or go to some Husqvarna XP I have at 50:1. No leaner mixture than that for the life of the engine.
I am amazed at how easy it draws fuel when choked, and how easily it starts and runs. I did throw away the stock plug and put in a gapped NGK CM-6. I'm running a Xoar 22-8 and will switch to a 23-8 later on.
Definitely a keeper!
Sam

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

daddysam, yeah i did that....i never used the sparkplug that came in the motor, just put a brand new ngk 5812 CM-6 too. I did 2 tanks with 32:1, should i finish the 1 gallon that i have with that radio??? or should i just drop the gas and put new gallon with 50:1

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Here's the link to Pe's spark plug info, http://www.prme.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10

f5, finish the gallon of 32:1 then mix a new gallon at 50:1, readjust carb and fly.

JOHNS3D

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thanks Jody!!! i will do it.....btw where do i have to send you the money order for a few bucks....for all the help/support that you gave me lol.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Jody has been complaining a bit about a budget restricted diet lately so you better make it a big check

I'm with him on the break in fuel and quantity. It normally takes a few hours of running to complete the full break in process but by the end of the first gallon on a fifty you're good for the oil tratio change.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

hey guys, one question, how much do i have to tigth the propeller screws?.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

40-50 inch pounds. Check them every couple of flights until they stop moving at that torque setting. If you don't use a torque wrench and your prop washer is sinking into your prop, it's way to tight.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

thanks Jody, would consider to get a torque wrench...any model? i prefer a small one.

jedijody

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The link is an example of an affordable one that will suit our puposes. There others, go to Amazon and just type "torque wrench" into the search engine and you will get many different ones to suit any budget.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

lol i was looking exactly that one!!!, i think i will get it, it can save me a few bucks in propellers.

Thanks!!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

May save even more in stripped hub threads

JohnMcGowan

My Feedback: (15)

Question for you guys.... I just picked up a new DL55 that will be going on a 80 inch hellcat warbird, estimated weight of the plane at 18 to 22 lbs( the plane is not built yet). Do you folks solder up the little hole in the choke butterfly to help it draw gas better during starting or just use the choke as it came from the factory?
Also, I wanting to make this plane scream on its low passes! What do you think would be a good prop besides the 22x8 break in prop for speed?
Thanks!
John

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Would you like some pic's?

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Do not solder the hole in the choke plate closed. If all the plumbing is correct and the linkage works right that hole is the oxygen supply needed for the engine to fire when it's wet with gas. Trust that the carb manufacturers really do know how to make a carb.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I think most of the people that solder that hole have another problem they are trying to patch...like an air leak or pump problem...etc etc.

Bass1

I can't really tell by the photo with the cowl on but Im not seeing adequate provisions for cooling of the engine both in and out of the cowling. What do you guys think? Could just be the photo though.[sm=49_49.gif]