Painting a bypass tube
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Painting a bypass tube
JUst curious who has done it and how. Anyone use this paint for finishing the bypass?
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Ive seen directions on bvm's website how to paint, but seems like too many xtra steps. Why not just using finishing resion epoxy, sand the sucker down, and use primer and this high heat paint to finish?
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Ive seen directions on bvm's website how to paint, but seems like too many xtra steps. Why not just using finishing resion epoxy, sand the sucker down, and use primer and this high heat paint to finish?
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RE: Painting a bypass tube
If you have a BVM bypass tube, it is made from a high temperature epoxy resin/carbon fiber composite.
High temp resins are formulated differently than laminating or finishing resins. They are pretty pricey, and pretty special. They are typically given a "Post Cure", at around 450 degrees F for an hour or so after the initial low temp oven cure. Then they are able to sustain elevated temperatures much higher than 450 F. Some are good for well over 600 degrees F.
Before you take off, and after you land, the bypass tube is at it's hottest....very little or no ram air to cool the engine, so the bypass tube gets heat soaked. That's when the high temp resin has to earn it's keep.
That's no place for a regular laminating or finishing resin that's only good for a couple of hundred degrees.
IMHO, I would not use an unknown rattle can primer either, but PPG K-36 seems to do very well on bypass tubes.
I can understand that the BVM painting method seems ponderous, but it will produce a very good finish.
I think the Duplicolor paint might be a good way to go. I might give it a try myself. Hell, I didn't even paint the bypass tube or cover on my FA-18F. It looks pretty good the way it is.
Good lkluck,
Harley Condra
BVM REP
JetCat REP
High temp resins are formulated differently than laminating or finishing resins. They are pretty pricey, and pretty special. They are typically given a "Post Cure", at around 450 degrees F for an hour or so after the initial low temp oven cure. Then they are able to sustain elevated temperatures much higher than 450 F. Some are good for well over 600 degrees F.
Before you take off, and after you land, the bypass tube is at it's hottest....very little or no ram air to cool the engine, so the bypass tube gets heat soaked. That's when the high temp resin has to earn it's keep.
That's no place for a regular laminating or finishing resin that's only good for a couple of hundred degrees.
IMHO, I would not use an unknown rattle can primer either, but PPG K-36 seems to do very well on bypass tubes.
I can understand that the BVM painting method seems ponderous, but it will produce a very good finish.
I think the Duplicolor paint might be a good way to go. I might give it a try myself. Hell, I didn't even paint the bypass tube or cover on my FA-18F. It looks pretty good the way it is.
Good lkluck,
Harley Condra
BVM REP
JetCat REP
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RE: Painting a bypass tube
I know it is a "beauty is in the eyes of the beholder" thing, but all of BV's C/F stuff is done with that stunning black weave, I like to be able to enjoy it.....on my ARF Bandit, and UltraBandit, I am painting the inlet ducts, but just shooting PPG gloss clear on the bypass after a very light sanding with 800 paper...ends up looking as nice and shiny as the C/F flex plates...temps are no problems as long as you do the suggested 3-4 coats of Heatshield on the inside, aft 1/3 of the bypass......
I have used Krylon Hi-Heat and Radiator Black paint #1614 on the aft pipe of my Bandit where it sticks out beyond the fuse......looks a little better than a discolored pipe, IMO......good for continuous up to 600-700F.......and up to 1000F or a bit more at least for the duration of an average 8-9 minute run.....
TA
I have used Krylon Hi-Heat and Radiator Black paint #1614 on the aft pipe of my Bandit where it sticks out beyond the fuse......looks a little better than a discolored pipe, IMO......good for continuous up to 600-700F.......and up to 1000F or a bit more at least for the duration of an average 8-9 minute run.....
TA
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how bout this VHT caliper paint.
the paint has to be cured around 200 degrees, but is rated to 900. Primer is first put on, then base coat, then clear gloss. Its tough and chemical resistant
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
the paint has to be cured around 200 degrees, but is rated to 900. Primer is first put on, then base coat, then clear gloss. Its tough and chemical resistant
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Last edited by amitt; 10-30-2015 at 06:50 PM.