Ignition interference?
#1
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Ignition interference?
I just assembled a 1/5 Phoenix Waco (beautiful plane btw). Has a DLE 20 RA and a Spektrum AR8010T receiver.
When started it runs about 3-5 seconds and shuts off. I then notice that the receiver is now not responding as well. If I shut everything off and then back on the radio works fine----but once I start the motor the problem repeats itself. I'm using separate packs for the receiver and ignition. I have the opto kill switch and the rpm sensor for the telemetry.
Anybody have an idea what the problem is? Receiver? Ignition? Switch?
I'm stumped.....
When started it runs about 3-5 seconds and shuts off. I then notice that the receiver is now not responding as well. If I shut everything off and then back on the radio works fine----but once I start the motor the problem repeats itself. I'm using separate packs for the receiver and ignition. I have the opto kill switch and the rpm sensor for the telemetry.
Anybody have an idea what the problem is? Receiver? Ignition? Switch?
I'm stumped.....
#2
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Disconnect the RPM telemetry and give it a try.
Also make sure your plug cap is tight, if you don't see the outline in your hand for an hour after pushing it on its probably not tight enough.
Next is vibration, check out the lights on the remote receiver or receivers, wiggle the wires for the remotes and see if the lights go out or flash.
Also make sure your plug cap is tight, if you don't see the outline in your hand for an hour after pushing it on its probably not tight enough.
Next is vibration, check out the lights on the remote receiver or receivers, wiggle the wires for the remotes and see if the lights go out or flash.
#3
X2 or more on the plug cap note. Some use a hose clamp to really snug it down. Make sure you use the brand of plug the cap is designed for. Equivalent other brands may be just fine for the engine - but they have different shapes that may not fit the cap correctly. RCXcel ignition caps are designed for NGK only plugs, for example.
From there, it is a process of one-at-a-time elimination. Plug the battery in directly, and remove the kill switch. Remove the sensor. Try a completely different battery. Put the ignition battery way up close to the engine, and everything else as far away from it as possible. Eliminate all the conductive items (pushrods, wires, carbon fiber) that run from near the engine to near the RX, servos or their wiring as you can. Eliminate all switches. Eventually you will find the problem area, although it may be a long process of trying things and bench testing. Took me an entire summer for one setup to find out about the plug shape problem. Took three engine swaps (and many other items) to find it was a bad physical switch used for the ignition in another.
Check on-line in forums and directly with Spektrum about any reports of issues with the RX. Sometimes a firmware upgrade for some brands will fix a filtering problem, if one has been reported. At least your issue is pretty consistent - makes it much easier to troubleshoot than one that only shows up sporadically.
From there, it is a process of one-at-a-time elimination. Plug the battery in directly, and remove the kill switch. Remove the sensor. Try a completely different battery. Put the ignition battery way up close to the engine, and everything else as far away from it as possible. Eliminate all the conductive items (pushrods, wires, carbon fiber) that run from near the engine to near the RX, servos or their wiring as you can. Eliminate all switches. Eventually you will find the problem area, although it may be a long process of trying things and bench testing. Took me an entire summer for one setup to find out about the plug shape problem. Took three engine swaps (and many other items) to find it was a bad physical switch used for the ignition in another.
Check on-line in forums and directly with Spektrum about any reports of issues with the RX. Sometimes a firmware upgrade for some brands will fix a filtering problem, if one has been reported. At least your issue is pretty consistent - makes it much easier to troubleshoot than one that only shows up sporadically.
#4
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Okay, I have 3 of these receivers (AR8010T) all connected via srxl to Aura 8 stabilizers. This one had previously been in an electric and had no problems whatsoever. I now swapped it out for one of my others and the problem is gone.....works fine. This rx obviously has an issue with ignition. I'm wondering......should I ship it back to Horizon or just consider it "electric only" and be done with it?
#5
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I'd send it in. It can't hurt, and they might check it out for nothing, or minimal charge. I sent a Rx off (AR12310T) for service last month, and it was only 8 days (from the day I sent it) until I had it back in my hand. Incredible fast, and fully repaired, no charge either. The receiver should work in anything, gas/glow/electric... and it's a decent receiver.
Reality is it might not be anything to do with ignition... It could be vibration, or a faulty connection, etc.. If it was in a plane previously, it might have a loose port from disconnecting or connecting/plugging-in...etc.... It could be many things. I'm not saying you're wrong either, but the service is worth the time it takes, and our models are worth more then a guess when there's service available. Good luck with it.
Reality is it might not be anything to do with ignition... It could be vibration, or a faulty connection, etc.. If it was in a plane previously, it might have a loose port from disconnecting or connecting/plugging-in...etc.... It could be many things. I'm not saying you're wrong either, but the service is worth the time it takes, and our models are worth more then a guess when there's service available. Good luck with it.
#7
They've been for gassers all along. That was one of the early advantages they had (and still have) over most other gyro systems. Works flawlessly in the 35cc Yak from Flex Innovations that came with one installed, that I got a couple of years ago. Many, many in use in some of the really big ones.