Covering monokote with monokote
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Covering monokote with monokote
My girlfriend just bought a new U CAN DO 3D. A few other people at our field fly it also. She has to be different, so she wants to peel off the red and blues off the wing and tail and add a different design to it. Is there any special tricks we should know about? We have not done much covering so any help would be great.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
No problem. Spray window cleaner and apply the monocote, squegee the liquid out with a piece of soft balsa and let dry over nite. The next day use a Q-tip and apply Monocote solvent around the edges and it will stay permanently. Don't use any heat as it will mess up the job.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Does the window cleaner activate the adhesive to stick the two layers of monocote? Then the solvent just seals the edges? Or did I misunderstand?
Thanks
Thanks
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
The surface tension of the liquid holds the Mono down. It does not activate the adhesive but when it dries it does stick pretty well. Sealing the edges keeps it down permenantly and since there is no air it won't bubble.
It works really well and gives the best results. Heat causes wrinkles and bubbles because of the preshrunk bottom layer not contracting along with the new top layer. Solvent alone runs the color and does not allow time for proper placement. Try it and you'll see it is very easy. The only tricks are to make sure the surface is clean and use soft balsa sheet scraps to squegee with. Hold the balsa with the grain parralell to the surface and if there are any bumps from particles under the mono pull it up and start again.
I learned this from a friend who did a really nice checkerboard pattern that was about five years old and looked perfect. When he explained it to me the first time I had the same questions till I tried it.
It works really well and gives the best results. Heat causes wrinkles and bubbles because of the preshrunk bottom layer not contracting along with the new top layer. Solvent alone runs the color and does not allow time for proper placement. Try it and you'll see it is very easy. The only tricks are to make sure the surface is clean and use soft balsa sheet scraps to squegee with. Hold the balsa with the grain parralell to the surface and if there are any bumps from particles under the mono pull it up and start again.
I learned this from a friend who did a really nice checkerboard pattern that was about five years old and looked perfect. When he explained it to me the first time I had the same questions till I tried it.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
BB, thanks for a new method to try. I can confirm what you have been saying. I have applied trim with both the solvent and heating method and ended up popping bubbles, or not being able to get the trim exactly where I wanted it.
One question, though. Using you method, how do you account for curves. So far, heat's the only way I've found to get the trim piece around a corner.
One question, though. Using you method, how do you account for curves. So far, heat's the only way I've found to get the trim piece around a corner.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
HI,
I have applied monokote on monokote without any air bubbles.
You have to use very low heat, just enough to activate the glue.
Hold up the one side of the covering and ease the heat on.
You can put more heat on later, the film does not require as much heat as when filming onto bare wood.
Glenn
I have applied monokote on monokote without any air bubbles.
You have to use very low heat, just enough to activate the glue.
Hold up the one side of the covering and ease the heat on.
You can put more heat on later, the film does not require as much heat as when filming onto bare wood.
Glenn
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Try adding a little ammonia with the the solution when wetting on mono to moncote. The ammonia acts as a solvent. THen just iron the edges with just enough heat to seal.
WG
WG
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
I have had good luck ironing the designs by puncturing pin holes under the designs before application and careful ironing
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
ORIGINAL: the troll
I have had good luck ironing the designs by puncturing pin holes under the designs before application and careful ironing
I have had good luck ironing the designs by puncturing pin holes under the designs before application and careful ironing
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Hmmm, just the topic I was going to start!
My question - can too much trim add TOO MUCH weight?
I'm building a GP Spectra sailplane, & am mimicking the color scheme on the box,shown here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ597&P=0
Is it best to cover the ENTIRE wing in yellow, then add the trim over on the leading edge portion of the wing? Or should I try to make it all 1 layer with little/no layering?
Thanks, any help GREATLY appreciated
Lee
My question - can too much trim add TOO MUCH weight?
I'm building a GP Spectra sailplane, & am mimicking the color scheme on the box,shown here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ597&P=0
Is it best to cover the ENTIRE wing in yellow, then add the trim over on the leading edge portion of the wing? Or should I try to make it all 1 layer with little/no layering?
Thanks, any help GREATLY appreciated
Lee
#12
RE: Covering monokote with monokote
I do the same as the troll, making sure that there are holes in the covering under the top coating. I have heard this lets the gas that is generated by heating escape on the bottom. I have had good success doing this, but have had some air bubbles. I chalk it up to my inexperience with covering.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Hey BB,
Sounds like a great technique! I'm trying to attach small pieces of monokote over ultracote. The pieces are in the shape of a diamond which means 4 sharp corners to catch on when cleaning after an outing. Will the technique still work with this senaireo?
Thanks!
Sounds like a great technique! I'm trying to attach small pieces of monokote over ultracote. The pieces are in the shape of a diamond which means 4 sharp corners to catch on when cleaning after an outing. Will the technique still work with this senaireo?
Thanks!
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Bralez, It looks like you have already done it. It should work just fine. As with any type of covering you do I think the longetivity has a lot to do with what cleaner you are using. If it has a lot of alcohol the squares will come up no matter what you do.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
ORIGINAL: blue ice
so she wants to peel off the red and blues off the wing and tail and add a different design to it.
so she wants to peel off the red and blues off the wing and tail and add a different design to it.
I would think the problem with your idea is not the technique, which BB covered very well, but the cost, unless you have spare Monokote hanging around. I would suggest the sticky-back trim sheets. Just cut them out, and smooth them on with your fingers to minimize bubbles. If you get friendly with the local sign shop, they will give you boxes of vinyl scraps of all different colors for free.
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RE: Covering monokote with monokote
Mike,
Factory Monocote will come up as easily as any other, especially with the help of a solvent on a Q-tip (denatured alcohol or maybe MEK)
Speaking of sticky back trim sheets, the Windex technique works very well with that stuff as well. Float it into place and squeegee out the Windex and the next day it is permanent.
Factory Monocote will come up as easily as any other, especially with the help of a solvent on a Q-tip (denatured alcohol or maybe MEK)
Speaking of sticky back trim sheets, the Windex technique works very well with that stuff as well. Float it into place and squeegee out the Windex and the next day it is permanent.