H9 Ultra stick 30CC design and component questions.
#27
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Yup, I looked too, and the manual is saying you can. Here's a link to the charger I looked at, and there's a link to download the manual on that same page. Start reading at page 15 or so there....
H4 DC/DC Four-Port Multi-Charger | HITEC RCD USA
H4 DC/DC Four-Port Multi-Charger | HITEC RCD USA
#29
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I have one of the H4 and its the ducks guts . Although Im not a serious electric flier so it may have some limitations for those with big packs to charge . The above link is the same as mine but they have an updated one with some pretty red trim and improved specs and features I think but not %100 sure .
#35
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Update...about 3/4 finished, should have it done this weekend.
Question, the kit came with a metal push rod for the throttle. Should I change it out to a plastic one or will the 2.4 frequency be OK with metal?
Red
Question, the kit came with a metal push rod for the throttle. Should I change it out to a plastic one or will the 2.4 frequency be OK with metal?
Red
#36
Having a metal pushrod will cause no problems wether you are on 72 or 2.4. The important thing is to ensure that there are no metal to metal connections to the throttle as that could cause a radio interference problem.
#39
My Feedback: (53)
One thing I have found after about a half-dozen flights, there is little prop-clearance, even when flying with a 19X8 prop. Came across a slight bump in my field (on a very smooth landing) and it caused enough of a bounce (the tires did not even leave the ground) and it destroyed the propeller. Also, be sure to double-check and add some epoxy to the aileron/flap servo mounts in the wing (as the instructions tell you). After a prop-strike, I had a flap servo mount break loose from its cover plate. Going to go over each one and add a little epoxy to strengthen all of them.
#41
Thanks for the heads up. Were you using the stock wheels? What size wheels are you looking at now?
I heard about the servo mounts and put some epoxy on the servo mount surface, but the mounts seemed very tight. I wasn't about to try to remove them and re-glue. I would have preferred if they left the modeler glue them in.
I heard about the servo mounts and put some epoxy on the servo mount surface, but the mounts seemed very tight. I wasn't about to try to remove them and re-glue. I would have preferred if they left the modeler glue them in.
#42
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I finished the airplane yesterday. It balanced perfectly with no additional weight (not at first of course, but after hours of modifications). What I did was open up the area for the fuel tank so it would sit on the bottom of the fuselage. I reinforced the balsa on the bottom with popsicle sticks. Then I built a shelf above the fuel tank to hold the ignition (front) then two A123 2500 mah batteries just behind the ignition. All 3 fit under the magnetic hatch.
I used the Hitech D645MW servos, Aero-Tech bec, and two Rexcel switches. All of these parts were suggested in this thread.
Thanks to all the guys who helped advise me of the latest and greatest parts and ideas. I'll report in after the Maiden...hopefully sometime this week.
Red
I used the Hitech D645MW servos, Aero-Tech bec, and two Rexcel switches. All of these parts were suggested in this thread.
Thanks to all the guys who helped advise me of the latest and greatest parts and ideas. I'll report in after the Maiden...hopefully sometime this week.
Red
#43
My Feedback: (53)
Thanks for the heads up. Were you using the stock wheels? What size wheels are you looking at now?
I heard about the servo mounts and put some epoxy on the servo mount surface, but the mounts seemed very tight. I wasn't about to try to remove them and re-glue. I would have preferred if they left the modeler glue them in.
I heard about the servo mounts and put some epoxy on the servo mount surface, but the mounts seemed very tight. I wasn't about to try to remove them and re-glue. I would have preferred if they left the modeler glue them in.
With mounting the two elevator servos in the tail (due to having the DLE-40 twin in the nose), I am using three 2100 mah LiFe batts mounted right under the leading edge of the wing, then mounted the Electronic Ignition Box on the underside of the hatch over the fuel compartment. Works very well, balance is perfect. I'm also using a Smart-Fly Sport Plus with ignition, which is one reason the weight, without fuel, is around 14 lbs, 7 oz.
#45
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Well the maiden went good!!!!!!!! Need to tweak a few things, as always. New question, I'm using LiFe batteries and voltage is 6.6 to 7.2. My throttle servo is one that I had on hand, a JR Sport ST47 I also have JR sport 125MG, do I need a voltage regulator for those or should I upgrade the servo?
Red
Red
#49
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OK after the second day of flying (the first doesn't count because of nerves LOL) it seems I'm might be flying quite nose heavy. Yes it balanced at 4 1/2 on the wing but when I cut the power for landing the nose drops to a 45 degree angle after the speed bleeds off. This actually sets me up perfect because I'm always high on my approach (depth perception issue) and when I'm 6 feet or so off the ground I level out. The speed bleeds off quickly and I can grease it on. So far I'm landing without flaps. There's no float to this plane. Is this just the characteristics of this plane or are there adjustments to be made?
Red
Red
#50
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The more I think about it this might not be a bad deal. I have been flying electrics for so long...chop the power and land. Maybe I now have and airplane that you need to fly it onto the deck. Hum!
Red
Red