OS 61 Hanno Special question
#51
Great to see this thread gain some new material.
Sharing this rare motor that I saw listed which may be of interest to some on here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144644742458
Sharing this rare motor that I saw listed which may be of interest to some on here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144644742458
#52
Yes, I've been in the game for a few years now. Was about 7.25lbs at the time, super light and I wouldn't do a snap roll with it anymore. Still with Hanno, but the pump has 140RX pump swap. It's still running on the replacement piston/liner after the original peeled but it doesn't run very often. I did get one of those Jett piston/liner and two of the ones from Graham Gardener(?).
I probably should have jumped into the pump kit that was being offered a while back, but it's really been tucked away out of sight out of mid...
I probably should have jumped into the pump kit that was being offered a while back, but it's really been tucked away out of sight out of mid...
#53
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
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So not just a reverse engineered clone (again, for better or worse?). I've never run it..
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/cla...iner-sets.html
#54
Silly me got some names mixed up, it was in 2008 and it was made by Henry Nelson. It's an AAC liner so it's much lighter than an ABC one. I think the port timing might be tweaked too (for better or worse?) and whatever other "improvements" they claimed necessary.
So not just a reverse engineered clone (again, for better or worse?). I've never run it..
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/cla...iner-sets.html
So not just a reverse engineered clone (again, for better or worse?). I've never run it..
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/cla...iner-sets.html
Would love to see your Slingshot flying!
#55
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
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V1650 (07-19-2022)
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babbott78 (07-28-2023)
#58
no problem, if you reach out to Camilo on rcgroups (you will see the hanno pump thread), you should be able to grab a pump kit.
#59
Junior Member
#60
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HangarRash (07-28-2023)
#61
Junior Member
I wish we had some F3A fliers up here in Canada. Unfortunately, it is pretty dead.
This engine was in an Aurora, built in 1989 and lost in 2012 due to the right aileron jamming to one side in mid air.
t has had at least 1200 flawless flights.
Unfortunately, it sat in the garage for about 10 years without running.
After priming it, it started right away, idled beautifully but would not hold full throttle. (No bearing problems !)
This is why I suspect the membrane in the pump.
It brings back a lot of memories.
Enjoy your F3As.
Brice
This engine was in an Aurora, built in 1989 and lost in 2012 due to the right aileron jamming to one side in mid air.
t has had at least 1200 flawless flights.
Unfortunately, it sat in the garage for about 10 years without running.
After priming it, it started right away, idled beautifully but would not hold full throttle. (No bearing problems !)
This is why I suspect the membrane in the pump.
It brings back a lot of memories.
Enjoy your F3As.
Brice
#62
My Feedback: (121)
Hi Brice,
At full throttle did the engine surge, die or run erratically? A few things to try while you wait for your pump rebuild kit:
1) take the fuel line off the carb, but leave attached to the pump. Gently fill the pump with fuel through the inlet nipple until it drips from the line to the carb, then attach the carb line to the inlet nipple (closed loop) and let the pump ‘soak’ for a few days. Flush and try running again.
2) make sure all the head bolts and especially the back plate bolts are tight.
3) remove the backplate pump and check for clogs/ gum in the pump holes in the backplate.
4) check/ replace the needle valve ‘O’ ring.
I’ve run Hannos for 30 years (more than 7,000 logged flights), including several that I acquired used and have always managed to use the original pump. Of course, there was no rebuild option as OS did not sell pump replacement parts.
Good luck with your engine! The Hanno is one of my all time favorites, especially with a Nelson or Gardner piston/ sleeve.
Will
At full throttle did the engine surge, die or run erratically? A few things to try while you wait for your pump rebuild kit:
1) take the fuel line off the carb, but leave attached to the pump. Gently fill the pump with fuel through the inlet nipple until it drips from the line to the carb, then attach the carb line to the inlet nipple (closed loop) and let the pump ‘soak’ for a few days. Flush and try running again.
2) make sure all the head bolts and especially the back plate bolts are tight.
3) remove the backplate pump and check for clogs/ gum in the pump holes in the backplate.
4) check/ replace the needle valve ‘O’ ring.
I’ve run Hannos for 30 years (more than 7,000 logged flights), including several that I acquired used and have always managed to use the original pump. Of course, there was no rebuild option as OS did not sell pump replacement parts.
Good luck with your engine! The Hanno is one of my all time favorites, especially with a Nelson or Gardner piston/ sleeve.
Will
#63
Junior Member
Hi Will,
This engine idles very well and run without missing a bit up to about 75% of max throttle. When the throttle is finally wide open, the engine cuts out cleanly after a second or so. It will not carry on running even if the throttle is rapidly closed and re-opened somewhat. When the glow battery is reconnected, it will start again at the first flip of the prop. This is why I think that it is the membrane of the pump.
I took the carb apart and changed the "O" rings. I had bought a lot of carb parts 12-15 years ago, but nothing was available for the pumps.
Thanks for your advice. I will definitely try to clear the gum out of the pump.
Have a good weekend.
This engine idles very well and run without missing a bit up to about 75% of max throttle. When the throttle is finally wide open, the engine cuts out cleanly after a second or so. It will not carry on running even if the throttle is rapidly closed and re-opened somewhat. When the glow battery is reconnected, it will start again at the first flip of the prop. This is why I think that it is the membrane of the pump.
I took the carb apart and changed the "O" rings. I had bought a lot of carb parts 12-15 years ago, but nothing was available for the pumps.
Thanks for your advice. I will definitely try to clear the gum out of the pump.
Have a good weekend.
Last edited by Brice2; 07-29-2023 at 05:02 PM. Reason: added some info.
#64
Junior Member
Hi again Will,
Problem solved !
I had forgotten one thing :
When a standard RC engine is too lean at WOT, it will slow down, heat up like crazy and eventually cut out. When it is too rich it will sputter and again cut out.
With a pump engine, when it is way to rich, it will just die out straight away.
When I cleaned the carb, I replaced the main needle valve at 2 1/2 turns. I found my notes and on this carb, it is supposed to be between 1/2 and 3/4 turn.
I cleared the pump as discussed and tried it again with the correct needle setting.
Voila !
Sweet transition and about 10200 rpm with a 13x9 APC pattern.
Thanks for your help.
Now I just have to build a new pattern plane. Ouch..................
Problem solved !
I had forgotten one thing :
When a standard RC engine is too lean at WOT, it will slow down, heat up like crazy and eventually cut out. When it is too rich it will sputter and again cut out.
With a pump engine, when it is way to rich, it will just die out straight away.
When I cleaned the carb, I replaced the main needle valve at 2 1/2 turns. I found my notes and on this carb, it is supposed to be between 1/2 and 3/4 turn.
I cleared the pump as discussed and tried it again with the correct needle setting.
Voila !
Sweet transition and about 10200 rpm with a 13x9 APC pattern.
Thanks for your help.
Now I just have to build a new pattern plane. Ouch..................
#67
My Feedback: (121)
The older version on the SF has a return line for excess fuel from the carb to the pump, and then from the pump to the fuel tank. Mine worked great, but too much plumbing for my taste. I much prefer the simplicity of the two line (1 in from the tank; 1 out to the carb) version developed for the Hanno.
Both engines look brand new, very nice! What is the serial number on the Hanno?
will
Both engines look brand new, very nice! What is the serial number on the Hanno?
will
#70
I own a RF 61 (not pumped) as well and was thinking what if I change the RF 61 simple back plate and carb with the SF’s ( pumped).
and also change the original RF piston/liner with a set of new Hanno type one with the same port size and timing.
the only thing that I don’t know is the similarity of the crank rotary valve size and shape on the RF and Hanno.
this way the simple RF will be modified to a Hanno Special specifications and performance.
What do you think?🤔
and also change the original RF piston/liner with a set of new Hanno type one with the same port size and timing.
the only thing that I don’t know is the similarity of the crank rotary valve size and shape on the RF and Hanno.
this way the simple RF will be modified to a Hanno Special specifications and performance.
What do you think?🤔
#71
My Feedback: (121)
Yes, that will work and you will get Hanno performance from the RF. The big difference between the stock RF and the Hanno was an increase in exhaust duration (6 degrees more for the Hanno. The RF-P (pre-Hanno) got some performance boost from the larger carb throat of the pump carb, but nothing like the increase in the exhaust port size. I have tried running the larger (butterfly) carb and pump on the Hanno, hoping for a little performance boost over the stock Hanno pump/carb, but saw no improvement in the air.
Will
Will