noguy

Hey Guizmo17,

I looked up your camera and it weighs 165g (acording to an ebay sellers specs). Does you MT lift it without easily????

I just bought one of these [link=http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/canon/powershot_tx1-review/index.shtml] CANON CAMS[/link].

It weighs about 100g more. Do you think the MT will take it up??? How did you mount your cam on the heli? Do you have any pointers? Maybe some pics of your setup you could post?

Thanks, Noah

Guizmo17

My heli lift perfectly my cam. But the battery don' t last very long. I'm jalous of this cam ! 30 frames sec ! I want that. Ill post a other video to show how i put is under, but its I'm my friend's cam i need to see him but i dont have much time this week.

redvtr1000

Don't know if anyone else has seen this but I came across a mini titan CF frame upgrade on ebay today. First time seeing one of these, here is the link to the auction and review. 99 bucks

http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/a...articles_id=47

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Titan-E325-...QQcmdZViewItem

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Coming soon to the magazine section!!!

noguy

Yeah I am very excited for my cam to arrive. For such a little bugger it has some great vid capabilities. 720p resolution, and it will do 320x240 @ 60fps. It also has O.I.S. so hopefully it will make for some fairly steady in flight vid.

redvtr1000

Anyone using the s9650 from futaba on the tail of their e325 that can answer me this question? What did you use for a control horn on the servo, how about the ball link?

I used the horn that came with the servo and trimmed it as necessary. Used the factory ball link on the tail end and instead of using it at the servo arm I used one of those brass deals with the set screw that let the rod pass through and tightened the set screw with loctite. These look like a wheel collar but it has a pin on one end to go into a control horn (not sure on the name of the item). Anyway, what is the consensus on getting this done. The s9650 is a bit bigger than hs 65s and the like so the ball link that came for the kit won't tighten in that hole on the servo arm. HS 65 servo arms don't fit.

DA

noguy

Hey redvtr1000,

I recently went to the 9650. I remember having a heck of a time figuring the right way to get it mounted with the TT servo mounts. I used the futaba round horn if I remember right. I believe I may have used a align ball and link on the servo horn. I have a mixture of TT & Align balls throughout my e325. I will double check my heli and let you know if I was wrong on my memory with my 9650 setup.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yea I went through the same thing and detailed the answer in my review.

First I took a hitec servo arm that I had cut off the cyclic servo. The screws thread right into them, unfortunately they are too short to thread through the ball, the futaba servo arm and into the hitec servo arm that I was using as a sort of plastic nut.

So I ended up taking a flat grinding stone to the Futaba servo wheel and milling it from the bottom to reduce the thickness of the arm by half. You dont have to do the whole thing, just where you want to put the nut plate. Then the screw went down through the ball, through the reduced thickness futaba wheel and threaded into the hitec servo arm.

noguy

Ok I double check my heli and I did use the included futtaba horn. The round one. I used an Align ball and link. The align ball uses a larger screw that threads right into the futaba horn and works very nicely.
I use the align balls and links in many places on my e325 and actually like them better than the TT ones.

redvtr1000

Some mini titan setup questions for all you that are already flying this bird.

A little on my setup, seems popular so I figure someone has gone through all the same that I am doing.

Mini titan (kit form with TT motor and ace esc).
GY401, s9650 on the tail
hitec hs-65s on the swash
Spektrum DX7
TP 2200mah Extreme lipos

First question, is it necessary to shim the aileron servos (the elevator had to be done or horn binds on frame) but the ailerons seem to travel just fine without shimming them up, anyone used these hitecs know if its required or not?

Second item, Using a GY401 I am getting the red alarm light. I skimmed through the futaba manual and it mentions getting the radio set for avcs before the gyro will initialize. Ran out of time last night playing with it and don't have all the details with me right now but what are the basic high points I need to know on setting this up rather than have to swap between the three manuals over and over? Also, does anyone foresee a problem with installing this gyro in the bottom of the frame (under the tail boom in the slot, seems like it was made to go here)? I have it up top behind the elev. servo but would rather it down bottom after I get it adjusted right so it can't be whacked by the flybar in a crash.

Third question, Where should I set the esc for battery protection so I get the most for flight time yet still remain on the safe side? I will time flights and what have you but I am relatively new to Lipos and electric helis.

I bought a cellpro discharge protection module that monitors the individual cell voltage but I need an adapter to go from the cellpro node to thunder power (balance connector? ) The DPM has an input for cellpros line of packs, not thunder power, so I need an adapter of some sorts to go from the TP packs to the DPM. Should be female for the thunder power side and then male on the cellpro side. Any idea where to get this or how to make it?

DA

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Mid or standard timing is fine.

Thats not an alarm light, it should blink then come on steady, that means its good, if its flashing slowly (1 flash / sec) then the single wire isn't plugged in right or the radio isn't setup correctly. If its flashing 2 flashes that means its getting a rudder or trim input, if its off it means its in rate mode and if its on steady that means it booted correctly and is in heading hold.

redvtr1000

It just blinks for me, I seem to remember something in the manual saying that when it is blinking like this it is to tell me that something is not right. AKA, don't throttle up unless you want to get the tools and credit card out.


I'm on the 1 flash/sec or so, I guess the radio setup or the single wire is wrong.

All of this shows me how much I really took that axe cp for granted. I have now had this heli for 2 weeks (built mostly by the second night) and still haven't powered up the motor!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Where is covington? We are hosting a heli gathering in Jacksonville, if its within a few hours it would be worth your while, friday the 12th through sunday the 14th, I could get you all set up in one session and get you some training flights in.

redvtr1000

Covington is on the east side of atlanta (about 40 miles east). It has been a while since I made it down to Florida. I think its probably about 5 and a half hours to jacksonville. Let me look into it though, I might be able to jump in the car and take a ride depending on how work goes. I would definitely enjoy it!

Dave

patatchim

I there to all mini titan owners!!!

I´ve been a walkera owner for 2 years. I upgraded it with a brusless motor, lipo, and a good radio. Well after several crashs and a very long time waiting for replacement parts i dicided that i should just dump my walkera
I bought a mini titan 4 months ago and here´s my setup:

mini titan kit
3550kv Brushless Motor with 30a Sonix Speed Controller (low price... works good)
a 3s 1.7A x-power battery
a futaba t7cp
a walkeragyro and servo... yes i´m trying to buy a new gyro
3 ACE C1016 servos
Recently i bought a eagle tree e-logger, very nice tool for everything electric...

So, now a question: the thunder tiger motor(OBL 29/35-10H) for the mini titan is it good?


redvtr1000: you´re esc cutoff should be set to the minimum voltage of your battery. Lipo cell have (usually) a operating range of 2.7V(discharged) to 4.2V(charged), nominal voltage is 3.7V. From what i´ve read about lipo, 3.0V seems to be the point to remove the load before damage may occur.

redvtr1000

dealing with the gyro and servo, I have gotten it set to the point I think its pretty close. Still having a bit of trouble with it though. Here's whats up at the moment.

Ok, I can get the light to come on steady and can see the gyro making corrections. In this mode if I move the heli I can see the gyro correct and it will stay in that position of trying to get the nose back toward where it was (on the bench heli not running). After I give an input I get the double flashes which stay on unless I use the gear switch or flight mode switch (depending on which I set it as I think).

I changed the travel adjust back to 100 in the radio for left and right and attempted to limit the travel with the limit pot on the gyro. Here is where the problem comes from. I have everything set the way it looks in the manual (per instructions from rcu etc) but when I limit the gyro to the point where the linkage doesn't flex or bind at full travel I am not getting all the travel in the other direction. I can't seem to move the servo up or down the boom to make this any better. Looking at the pitch slider on the tail, the binding occurs as the slider moves out toward the blades. Once the slider hits its travel limit (mechanical) the pushrod will flex for the additional movement the servo can provide. Let go of the input on the tx and the servo returns to neutral position (half way down the tail shaft for the pitch slider and about 0 degrees pitch on the tail blades). I then turn the limit pot down to stop that binding. When I adjust to the point that there is no binding on that movement and then use the tx to give a left rudder input I get almost the full movement...almost but not all.

I am probably losing about 1/16th inch of movement or a tad more. I can hold full left input and then turn the limit pot back up and get that range back but that will bring the binding back on the other side.

Any thoughts?

I need to be able to adjust the travel to left/right independant of each other and I would have no problems

DA

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Move the servo on the boom or lengthen or shorten the pushrod by turning the ball link end to get it to where in rate mode (light off) the tail pitch slider moves an equal amount without binding (bowing the rod) when the servo arm is 90 degrees to the pushrod.

redvtr1000

Tail looks good. I think everything is pretty close in that end of the heli now.

I programmed the esc last night, buttoned up my wires and cleaned things up. Sat the heli on the table and spooled it up to see what it looked like. Tail control seems good on the table, direction is correct. I never went over 1/3 throttle but I could get it to spin around with the tail. I am sure there will be some adjusting yet to do with the gyro, btw what should delay be set as on the gyro?

I am concerned with the head now. When comparing the movement of the swash on the e325 to my old axe, it seems a bit different in the range of movement.

My main concern deals with collective movement during pitch inputs. It seems that up or down elevator are giving me collective change. I am not sure on the settings in the radio, everything looks right to me but I am afraid to try and bring it up into a hover without knowing for sure.

What should I be checking for here, I went through the manual to get rid of mixing like it shows but after putting all this time and effort in, I really don't want to see it do the funky chicken on its first attempt.

DA

redvtr1000

Got things straightened out with the swash servos this weekend. I had to go into the swash setup and fiddle with reversing some servos. There is a page in the dx7 somewhere dealing with swash and then on the bottom right it shows ail. elev. and pit. To the right of those three abbreviations you have a number from -100 to 0 to 100 I think expressed in percentage.

Reversing the servos using standard reverse screwed things all up but going to negative numbers on this page reversed things where they needed to be reversed.

The three settings were all positive 60 before I played around. When I was done I set the "pit." and "elev" percentages to negative values. I think all three are around 60 now just two of them are negative.

Now, head seems to function like it should. Using the manuals procedure for leveling, things look good.

I couldn't get the blades to balance on my dubro balancer so I used a mail scale and weighed them, added tape to make them the same weight, checked blade cg and installed them.

I ran the motor up and everything looked ok on the ground. No major vibration on spool up (there was slight vibe as rotor picked up some speed but it quickly dissappeared off idle). I tried to bring the heli up into a hover but about an inch and a half off the ground it all of a sudden started shaking horribly.

Closed the throttle and let it spin down. Found nothing wrong, blades seem to track perfect, flybar even.

Dunno?

dale691

Hi guys, Does anyone know if you are able to get a scale fuselage anywhere for the mini titan? I don't know if the T Rex ones fit or not.

redvtr1000

I haven't seen any offerings as of yet. Canomod.com is offering a fiberglass canopy for it (the only one that I have seen up to this point). Price should be about 65 USD. Helidirect is listed as a vendor, I talked to them and they said 2-3 weeks before they would have it. I won't hold my breath.

Good luck on finding one, I am thinking that we should start seeing more and more stuff for the MT as time passes. Its a good heli, just hasn't got the following of the trex just yet.

dynomatt

Ace Hobby now do a complete ARF (TTR4710-A12) which includes motor, esc, servos, gyro.

Has anybody seen these or got a feeling for what quality they'll be? Is it worth the extra?

Thanks,
Matt

redvtr1000

I have seen that, any idea on the total cost for that setup?

I personally would avoid it just because I like the building (feel better about repairs) and wanted to use high quality components that have been proven for performance.

Probably makes it a bit easier with the servos, I used hs-65s and had to mod the servo trays. Its easy to do and the servos work great.

devens

Well wish me congrats, it's a girl! [8D] My Titan Raptor just had a little baby Mini Titan. Boy my AXE CP is going to be jealous! hehe

Set-up:

MT Kit! building the heli is the most fun part...well next to flying it of course!
bought a combo including; Kit, Align 3550 motor, Align BL35G speed control...$199
Futaba 9257 rudder servo
Futaba 3154 swash servos
Align RCE 500x gyro.......hand me down from my Axe CP , I want to see how it works on the MT before I buy another 401. Might be an expensive experiment!
JR 6 ch micro receiver
Flight Power EVO25 3S1P 2170mAh is my best battery..

I need to buy a new battery charger before I can charge 4S batteries. I am not that good at 3D anyway. I just fly circuits and do piroettes, flips, loop and rolls ect....easy stuff.

Any comments or questions about the set-up? I am a rooky heli pilot so any suggestions would be concidered.

I have read through the thread and I am curious why and where are you substituting T-Rex ball links. My freind who just built one and he said he used all stock stuff. I haven't looked at his rudder servo set-up YET! He said that he had to trim fro the servos I think and needed to shim the elevator servo I think. But any info I can gather before my built is appreciated.

cheers,

D

devens

Hey cudda can you give an eta on your MT review. How about a beta release . I used your Raptor review extensivley during my build. It was my first heli and I have to say I never had to undo any thing during my build and my maiden hover...first ever was a success!

When are the electric Titans gonna get some representation in the "electric heli by brand part of the forum"? Maybe after cudda does his reveiw and they start selling like mad.