M3

My Feedback: (25)

Has anyone else had a problem with their BME 50 in regards to starting? My first three flights were flawless, the engine started and ran perfectly. The plane then sat for a few weeks and when I went to start it, nothing. I replaced the plug, still nothing. After two hours of piddling around, it went to the basement where it sat all summer (working on other projects); I got it out last week and it started third flip, ran up, then when I idled down it stalled out (probably not warmed up yet). Then, it wouldn't start. I am beyond frustrated. I called C&H Ignition, and they are "closed due to health reasons and should reopen Monday, September 20." I was talking with a guy last night and he said a buddy of his had the exact same problem I am having.

I have a 4.8V 1700 mah ignition pack and am using a MPI switch w/ charge jack.

Any suggestions???

Thanks,
Lance

H. Wayne S

My Feedback: (18)

Have you load checked your battery? Have you checked the switch. It is very unusual for an ignition box to go in and out like your describing.

M3

My Feedback: (25)

What is the best way to load check the battery (sorry for the ignorance ;-)? I bypassed the switch harness and plugged the battery directly into the ignition and couldn't detect spark (held the plug on the head and flipped the prop). What about the timming pick-up I think that's what it is called) on the front of the crank-case? Could that cause these symptoms?

Thaks,

Lance

John Murdoch

My Feedback: (11)

Lance.. If you have a good battery and switch, a working spark plug and the carb is getting fuel, then it possibly could be the ignition. You can do a couple of things:
1: Try all the fixes that everyone suggests
2: Send it to Keith at BME and let them fix it.

I've had similar problems in the past where it ran teriffic and then... nothing. For me, it's just as easy to box the thing up, send it in to get it repaired and have it come back "knowing" it's right. I just won't gamble on "maybe" fixing an engine problem. I usually have too much invested for that.
John

Jleyland

My Feedback: (1)

Lance,
Is there any way you can try someone else's BME ignition? I'd exhaust all avenues before sending it back to BME-- reason being I think he is short on help.
Jon

M3

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks for the information. I called BME and they didn't seem to want anything to do with the ignition; they said to send it to C&H. I just can't understand why it intermittently fires.

Jleyland

My Feedback: (1)

Like your hunch led you to--- try moving the pick up wire around while it's running. - Can you get it to run at all now?

M3

My Feedback: (25)

It either will start and run, or it won't start at all, not matter how much I flip it.

Jleyland

My Feedback: (1)

That could be the pickup wire. I think they are $6 - it might be worth it to either look closely at it - when they go bad (from vibration usually) its right where they are soldered onto the 3 pins - either at the beginning or end, or just buy a new one (buy them from BME if you do, that way they are preassmebled and just plug and play). When you try and get a spark make sure you move that around a little to see if that may be the problem (from a broken wire). This is all assuming the carb can draw fuel. Since you took the switch out of the equation theres a good possiblility this could be your problem. The other thing I noticed on some ch ignitions they give you a 'universal' connector for the battery - I had a problem with my 102 similiar to what you're describing and I changed the connector to a jr, as the stock connector was horrible, and fit loose which was causing intermittant firing.
I hope you get it sorted out!
Jon

FlyM

Lance,

I just had the same symptoms you are experiencing, with my BME. My ignition had recently been upgraded by CH. The engine ran OK for two trips to the field. On the third trip it would not fire at all. I replaced my battery and switch harness. Then it ran fine. I thought "OK" now we can go fly. The next trip to the field it would not fire. I called CH and described what it did. Bill did not hesitate with the reply. He said that I had a bad module and to send it back.

The problem comes and goes with ambient temperature changes. Hot and it will not run. Cooler and it will run.
To check this for yourself, cool the ignition module and see if it runs. I proved this to myself by spraying the module with canned air used to clean computers with. Sure enough, after I cooled it down it ran fine. Be careful if you use the air. You can get it very cold.

Of course,it could still be something different.

Now for some bad news. While talking to Bill, he told me that he had just had a heart attack about 4 days earlier and that he had had some stints put in. He was not even suppose to be at work. And he was suppose to go back in 10 days, I believe, and have some more work done. I would like to wish Bill a speedy and full recovery.

Loyd Greer

M3

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks for all the replies.

Loyd:

Just curious, what was the cost of the new module? I wonder if this a common problem with ALL ignition systems (ALL brands, that is), or is it mainly with C&H; if so, I am hesitant to buy another module from C&H (not sure if there is an alternative). We obviously have pretty drastic changes in temp in Ohio, plus the plane has gone from a cool/dry basemement to a warm/humid outside temp. If the ignition is that sensitive, it doesn't seem practical.

Sorry to hear about Bill, and hope he makes a speedy recovery.

Jon:

I will look carefully at the pick-up wire. Also, I am glad you mentioned the "universal plug" because I noticed when plugging in the switch harness that one of the female pins on the ignition side of the plug looked as though it wanted to pull out of the plastic plug casing; this sloppy fit might be the problem???

Again, thanks a bunch for all the suggestions.

Jleyland

My Feedback: (1)

Yes! I bet thats your problem! Definately get rid of that connector and use somehting more secure. - I hope this fixes your problem.
Let me know!
Jon

FlyM

Lance,

1. The cost of the module was covered under warranty. But I haven't got it back from CH yet.

2. I do not believe this is common with the electronic ignitions. I may be wrong, but I believe CH was one of the pioneers in electronic ignitions for our model engines. They are very well respected and, for me anyway, a pleasure to deal with. They have not stayed in business for over 20 years putting out a bad product.

From what I understand, CH had some ignitions with bad components on the "syncro spark" board in the ignition module. They are working to correct the problem.

Loyd

Cap232tain

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same problem with 2 ignitions from CH for my BME's and they covered them both under warranty. Make sure you write "WARRANTY REPAIR" on the shipping box and you will usually see them in 10 days or less. As for the hall effect sensor for BME's, I keep a spare in my field box, I think they are about $8 from BME! There was a thread on the CH problem and they know the problem is there and will repair it under warranty!

romanrc

I had too the same problem, but in my case was the sensor connector, It was broken, Kehit tell me I can repair but I know 0 mecanical and send the engine to repair. The connector sensor is too weak. [:@]