DMcQuinn

My Feedback: (13)

I think i need to remove the prop hub from the shaft in order to get it into my drill press (see related thread about prop bolts failing). How do you get the hub off the shaft? I have removed the 14 mm nut, but the hub is stuck. I do not have a gear puller. I have wedged a flat screwdriver between the back of the hub and the front of the crankcase, but with moderate force I have not popped it loose. WIll wait to hear from someone -- I don't want to damage anything.
Is there a key so that when I re-install, the timing is right?

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Well you really need a puller, but maybe a lot of heat on the hub and two screw drivers will get it done

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

3W uses something, maybe Loctite, on the taper of the hub..It takes lots of heat to remove the hub from the shaft, even with a puller...There is a key to locate it on the shaft..
Too much heat might de magnetize the sensor magnet...
If you heat the hub be sure you take the sensor off the case first..
Heat opposite the magnet...
You can make a puller with a piece of 1/2 inch aluminum or steel..
Drill and tap a 3/8-24 hole in the center and 2 holes 9/16 from the center..Use a 3/8 bolt to push the hub off the crank...Use heat..If you tighten the 3/8 bolt good and tight the hub will pop off when the German Loctite melts...It's not necessary when you put the hub back on, the taper is plenty good enough..No one else uses Loctite on the hub.....
The bolt pattern for the six holes is 1.133, slightly more than
1 1/8 inches...
Like TKG says, heat and 2 screwdrivers might work, but will put dents on the front of the case....
If you make a puller be sure to use 5mm bolts, not 10-32..10-32 bolts are smaller and will pull out of the hub...

DMcQuinn

My Feedback: (13)

I see that I could make a simple puller, except that all 6 holes are filled with the broken off ends of the prop bolts. They all sheared off leaving the threaded portion stuck in the holes. I think I will try to acquire the type of puller that has three fingers that hook around the back side of the hub.
The reason I think I need to remove the hub is to get it under my drill press so that I can put a drill hole into each of the 6 broken studs and hopefull extract them from the holes with a screw extractor.
If I am unsuccessful, how much is a new hub?

DMcQuinn

My Feedback: (13)

RCIGN - when you say to heat the hub, do you mean with a heat gun or with a torch (I have both)

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Use a propane torch..You could drill and tap 2 new holes in the depressions between the sheared off bolts...
If you take the hub off you can drill out the bolts from the back side..If you drill slowly with a #21 drill the bolts should unscrew..Works much better than an ezy out....Drill slow....
There isn't enough room between the hub and the case for a 3 jaw puller.......

Ed Vollmer

My Feedback: (14)

You may not have to remove the hub. If the bolts are shared flush with the hub you may be able to cut a slot in the stubs. Using a small 1/32 thick Dremel grinding disk, slot the stubs about 1/16" deep. Then heat the area near the stub with a propane torch. This will expand the aluminum and allow the stub to be screwed out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Be sure to remove the plastic ignition pickup before heating the hub.

There may be a little damage to the hub (slots), but will not affect the integrity of it.

I have done this on 6 bolt hubs in the past.

Bigplaneflyer

You can use a puller designed to take wheel bearings off of axles using a press-any machine shop can do this. Worked for me. Just make sure you catch the engine!!!!