TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

Greeting!

I hope the rains have lessened in the UK! I was there in May touring with a group just at the begining of the monsoon. Still, beautiful trip and the performances were excellent!

I am runing in my new 58CD. Seems like a sweet, but messy, little engine. After reading other threads, I see that the mess should resolve it self with time and, indeed, it does seem to be lessening. At any rate, I have been running the engine in about 15 - 20 min intervals with a master airscrew 11X7 3-blade prop. Total run time is about an hour. It will lean out to about 9500 RPM with this prop although I richen it to run at about 9200 WOT. The odd thing is that the highest RPM happens just short of WOT and it will drop a couple hundered RPM at WOT. Is this normal? If so, shall I just program in my servos for the highest RPM? If it is not normal, what should I do to correct this? So far, on the test stand, it runs nicely except the idle is not yet settling in. It will quit if it gets below 2700 RPM. May this be due to the prop or do I just need to be patient?

Unique sound!

Tom

RCV Engines

Hi Tom

Yes the rains have lessened and we seem to be settling into Autumn now! Glad you enjoyed your trip.

I have spoken to our Chief Technician about your engine and can advise that yes this is normal and you can re program your throttle to suit. The 2700 rpm at idle is probably due to the 3 bladed prop, we would normally suggest a 12 x 6 2 bladed prop for running in. However this will improve with running.

I hope this helps, however if you have any further queries please do not hesitate to contact us.

Many thanks

Stephanie

TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, Stephanie.

Is the prop a problem and will it do any harm to the engine during run-in? I can change it, but I really like the 3 bladed props. If you recommend to use the 12X6 for a while and switch later, or even not at all, I am very happy to do that.

Thanks!

Tom

RCV Engines

Hi Tom

Ideally we recomend a 2 bladed prop when running in our engines, but please feel free to switch later to your 3 bladed prop as this will not harm the engine.

Many thanks

Stephanie

TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, Stephanie, for your help. I will switch to the 2 bladed for the run-in.

Tom

TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

Stephanie:

I decided to contact you using this thread so you had a little history on my issue as it concerns the above engine. I am a little embarrassed to be putting this out here, but I may be guily of enginecide and I would like your recommendations on what is best at this point.

After I ran the engine in, it sat a while as I finished the plane (Harmon Rocket). Yesterday I took it out for both the plane's and engine's maiden. I used a 12X6 APC prop, Byron 16% synthetic/castor blend (10% nitro). The weather was cool, but nice. The engine took a while to start but we got it running. It did not have the power it had when I was running it in. It just wasn’t turning any RPM even after adjusting the mixture as you recommend. It ran at WOT like I would have expected if I were using less than half throttle. Using hindsight, I probably should have just shut it down and contacted you. But, like an idiot, I wanted to see the plane fly. After about 4 passes, I brought it in. As I was landing I brought it to idle and it sounded rather strange; it had a loud machine like noise, not the usual softer whir of the gears. Today I took it out with the intent to fiddle with it and see if what was up. Well, it wouldn't start and as I used the starter it makes a noise a bit like a loose chain. I thought it best to contact you at this point. I have had many 4 strokes (I have only used one 2 stroke and that on a trainer) and I am baffled by this. Except for the hour run-in the 58 had only that one flight.

Ideas? Is the poor thing a paperweight now?

Tom

mboland

The 58 CD is a gem of an engine and won't kill it with a hammer.
Have you checked for movement at the prop shaft? ie: has a bearing gone?
Mine did this but I did not notice and flew for 35min. By the time I landed the prop tip was moving 10mm and the front of the plane was covered in black silvery oil. The only tell tale sign in hte air was a drop in performance to half power at WOT.
Internal examination revealed it had eaten most of the rear bearing, but would you believe there was not a mark, scratch, indent or any sign of damage in the bore, piston or ring, and a new bearing is all that it needed.
Whatever it is, RCV will give you their usual wonderful service.

RCV Engines

Hi Tom

Sorry to hear of your troubles with your engine. From what you have told us, we think it would be advisable to contact our service center in the US who will be more than happy to help you.

Bill Jensen
BJ's Model Engine Service*
phone: 203-888-4819, email: [email protected],
web site: www.bj-model-engines.com
*a trade name of Flight Star Devices, Inc.

Have you registered your engine for warranty?

Many thanks

Stephanie

TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

This is nice to hear and in line with everything I have heard about these engines. The prop shaft does have some movement in it. Not much, but more than what it had when I was running it in. And if I had to guess, the additional noise seems to correspond to the looseness in the chaft. Except for the lack of oil everywhere, this does sound similar to your issue. I love this thing because it fits so compact and fits so well in cowls and I really prefer 4-stroke engines. I do nto blame RCV for this. I do think it was my issue totally.

Thanks for the advice!

Tom

TubaTom99

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, Stephanie. Not ot worry, my problems with this engine are self induced to be sure. As to the registering, I am runnning at about 50% reliability in that area, so it is a toss-up whether I actually registered it. If you are asking, I suspect I haven't. I have had the engine in it's original package for about 2 years and my memory does not go back that far.

I will contact Bill and see if he can get this thing up and runnning again. I will report back what he finds so others can avoid my misshaps.

Cheers!

Tom

TaplinTwin

Hello, RCV Technical Support:

I've a question you may have gone over times without number, but I'm new to this forum business and don't yet know how to get around on it very well. My question is elementary, but I must preface it.

I've been running model motors for 30+ years, and don't own an electric starter because any motor I've ever had will start on one or two flips, once one learns a motor's requirements, and I enjoy learning them and getting the one-flip starts. Please, I am not bragging; this has nothing to do with me. It's simply that given the right prop flip, the right spark (or compression, for diesels), and the right amount of fuel mix, the engine MUST start. But that's for conventonal-type motors. Maybe yours require a faster spin than a hand-flip of the prop can deliver.

Sorry to be so wordy; I just wanted to explain why this issue is so important to me.

My question is, do your engines start readily by hand-flipping, or does one need an some kind of assisted starting? It will sadden me if they need such, as I would very much like to buy some. I've a limited production kit of a Hurricane Mk II, and it would be unseemly to put anything but a British engine in it. I could put a P.A.W. 60 in it, but for the compression screw
sticking out of the cowl. Sacrilege! P.A.W.s are great fun to run, though, and I'll bet yours
are as well. Your motors appear beautifully machined! Works of technical art, actually.










start

mchandrayan

I had bought an RCV 58 CD, few years back direct from RCV and it was stored preserved with oil. Recently I started to run it in before mounting it on a model. The model was stored with 2stroke engine oil (as recommended by Laser Engines and flushed off before being run in). The engine starts fine.
I am using 18% all synth (Klotz) and 5% nitro fuel. Running in is on a 12x6 APC prop
Even while running in the engine at recommended 6000 RPM the bottom of the case gets very hot, so much so that you can not put your finger on it. My experience with other engines has been that if the engine is running well the case bottom remains cool where you can keep your finger (only after shutting the engine down does the case bottom temp goes up).
The question for all RCV owners/runners is this normal with RCV? I have about 45 minutes of run time on the engine now and entire running was below 6000 RPM
Appreciate any help or pointers