Wing Incidence
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Wing Incidence
Can the wing incidence be set before hinging ailerons to the wing or do you have to hing aileron to set? I am setting up new plane and do not have my servos yet to hold the ailerons stationary so I was wondering if I could set the incidence without ailerons applied to the wing Thanks Joey!!!!!!!!
#5
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RE: Wing Incidence
ORIGINAL: nonstoprc
Set it before hinging is always better. One less variable to worry about.
Set it before hinging is always better. One less variable to worry about.
#6
RE: Wing Incidence
Agreed. If the ailerons are already on, they can move and that can throw your measurements off. I always check my incidence before installing the ailerons. Same with the horizontal stabilizer. Do it without the elevators.
#9
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RE: Wing Incidence
You do not need to level the fuselage. You are trying to set the incidence between the wing and the stab. Install the wing and then prop up the tail until the meter reads zero at the root. Then remove your meter and check the stab. Now you can make adjustments to effect the relationship between these 2 surfaces. With your wing set at zero at the root, you can now slide the meter out along the span to the tip checking as you go to see if you have any warps and proper washout. This is a very simple process when you have the right meter.
#10
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RE: Wing Incidence
Verticle Grimmace I think you are wrong about that You set incidence in relation to the thrust line. Find the thrust line and level the plane acording to that, then set your incidence on the wing and stab. If you do it your way and the incidence is off on the wings then it will be off at the stab and you could have a plane that flys nose up or down.
#11
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RE: Wing Incidence
Also, if the wing incidence is checked, it is a good idea to check the stab's. The stab incidence plays a more critical role for the fly characteristics. All four should be 0 degree in relation to the reference line (e.g., the canopy deck on most ARFs with removal canopy design).
#12
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RE: Wing Incidence
ORIGINAL: craigteffe
Verticle Grimmace I think you are wrong about that You set incidence in relation to the thrust line. Find the thrust line and level the plane acording to that, then set your incidence on the wing and stab. If you do it your way and the incidence is off on the wings then it will be off at the stab and you could have a plane that flys nose up or down.
Verticle Grimmace I think you are wrong about that You set incidence in relation to the thrust line. Find the thrust line and level the plane acording to that, then set your incidence on the wing and stab. If you do it your way and the incidence is off on the wings then it will be off at the stab and you could have a plane that flys nose up or down.
Oh, by the way this aircraft that I built flies perfectly with no trim. A little more complicated than most monoplanes.
I do not remember anything being asked about thrust angle. This is usually done last and can and should be achieved with shims.
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RE: Wing Incidence
It makes all the difference in the way the airplane fly's. The wing is set to the datum or thrust line down the airplane. If the wing incidence is off from that line then the stab will be, if you do not check it accordig to that line.
If you want to get all P***y about it, do it your way and eventually you will have trouble.
If you want to get all P***y about it, do it your way and eventually you will have trouble.
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RE: Wing Incidence
Vertical,
I'm with you on this one. There is no guarantee that the datum line is parallel to the canopy or engine box or any other feature of the plane. Unless you know for sure where the datum line is, getting the two wings equal is the way to go (if it's a kit, you should have the datum line). Then, up/down thrust is set relative to the established level.
Nick
I'm with you on this one. There is no guarantee that the datum line is parallel to the canopy or engine box or any other feature of the plane. Unless you know for sure where the datum line is, getting the two wings equal is the way to go (if it's a kit, you should have the datum line). Then, up/down thrust is set relative to the established level.
Nick
#19
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RE: Wing Incidence
Rarely do you see in a kit anything referred to as the datum. Unless the kit was very poorly engineered the wing saddle should be close relative to the datum. I fully understand all of this. I design many of the planes I fly. I was trying to keep things simple for the original poster. This is more a matter of double checking the kit manufacturers work. Not actually really setting anything.
(for example) If the wing and stab are both .5 degree positive of the datum and the engine is also at .5 positive of the datum this would not effect how the plane flies unless the fuselage is producing lift. This is if a 0-0-0 rigging is desired. We do not know this though as we do not know what kind of plane it is. Maybe it is being assumed this is an aerobatic model. (Edge, Extra, Sukhoi etc)
Maybe this is a trainer? How should he rig that?
(for example) If the wing and stab are both .5 degree positive of the datum and the engine is also at .5 positive of the datum this would not effect how the plane flies unless the fuselage is producing lift. This is if a 0-0-0 rigging is desired. We do not know this though as we do not know what kind of plane it is. Maybe it is being assumed this is an aerobatic model. (Edge, Extra, Sukhoi etc)
Maybe this is a trainer? How should he rig that?
#20
My Feedback: (90)
RE: Wing Incidence
On most ARFs with wood fuse, there should be one reference line on the fuse where the construction is based on and stabs/wing sockets are aligned against. The canopy deck usually servs the purpose. Otherwise, how to guarantee the fuze is built straight?
On fiber glass kits, the reference line is usually described in the manual (e.g., put the fuse on a flat surface and raise the tail 1/2 inch, and the reference line is the surface).
0.5-0.5-0.5 arrangement is probably but not very likely. The plane does not position very well that way in flight, does it?
On fiber glass kits, the reference line is usually described in the manual (e.g., put the fuse on a flat surface and raise the tail 1/2 inch, and the reference line is the surface).
0.5-0.5-0.5 arrangement is probably but not very likely. The plane does not position very well that way in flight, does it?
#21
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RE: Wing Incidence
ORIGINAL: nonstoprc
On most ARFs with wood fuse, there should be one reference line on the fuse where the construction is based on and stabs/wing sockets are aligned against. The canopy deck usually servs the purpose. Otherwise, how to guarantee the fuze is built straight?
On fiber glass kits, the reference line is usually described in the manual (e.g., put the fuse on a flat surface and raise the tail 1/2 inch, and the reference line is the surface).
0.5-0.5-0.5 arrangement is probably but not very likely. The plane does not position very well that way in flight, does it?
On most ARFs with wood fuse, there should be one reference line on the fuse where the construction is based on and stabs/wing sockets are aligned against. The canopy deck usually servs the purpose. Otherwise, how to guarantee the fuze is built straight?
On fiber glass kits, the reference line is usually described in the manual (e.g., put the fuse on a flat surface and raise the tail 1/2 inch, and the reference line is the surface).
0.5-0.5-0.5 arrangement is probably but not very likely. The plane does not position very well that way in flight, does it?
#22
RE: Wing Incidence
Joseph185, Now that it's all clear[sm=spinnyeyes.gif], if you have the Robart meter, just follow their instructions. If not , you can get the instruction manual online at the Robart website.
#23
RE: Wing Incidence
This is usually how you set the incidence on an ARF. It doesn't work ALL the time. Some airplanes aren't built to accommodate this method. Most giant scale ARFs will be built like this and can be set up using this method.
Take the canopy/hatch off and put a good level on top of the fuselage longeron. Block up the tail of the plane until your level reads ZERO. Double check it with more than one level if you need too.
Now slide the stabilizer in and put your incidence meter on the stab. Set the stab to ZERO by moving the leading edge up and down. You may have to dremel out the alignment holes in the fuse to adjust the leading edge up and down. When you have it set, cut a couple donuts of lite-ply and drill holes for the alignment pins in the stab. Glue the donuts into the fuse and check to make sure nothing moves while the epoxy dries.
Stabs should be ZERO and fuse should be LEVEL now.
Now slid the wings on. Put the incidence meter on the wings at the ROOT of the wing. Move the leading edge of the wings up and down to get them at ZERO. Again, dremel out the holes in the fuse to allow for movement. Cut a donut of lite-ply about 1.5" diameter. Drill a hole in the donut for the alignment pin. Set the wings at ZERO and glue the donuts inside the fuse. Double check to make sure nothing slips while the epoxy dries.
Sometimes, you can block up the back of the wing to support it while the glue dries.
Double, triple, quadruple check it all or you'll be doing it again after the glue dries. []
Again, this doesn't work on EVERY plane out there. But--the fuselage longeron is usually a good spot to start from. If your plans have a datum line--then use it. If it's an ARF, then you aren't going to get a plan or anything to tell you where the datum line is anyway--so use the best thing you got--the longeron.
Take the canopy/hatch off and put a good level on top of the fuselage longeron. Block up the tail of the plane until your level reads ZERO. Double check it with more than one level if you need too.
Now slide the stabilizer in and put your incidence meter on the stab. Set the stab to ZERO by moving the leading edge up and down. You may have to dremel out the alignment holes in the fuse to adjust the leading edge up and down. When you have it set, cut a couple donuts of lite-ply and drill holes for the alignment pins in the stab. Glue the donuts into the fuse and check to make sure nothing moves while the epoxy dries.
Stabs should be ZERO and fuse should be LEVEL now.
Now slid the wings on. Put the incidence meter on the wings at the ROOT of the wing. Move the leading edge of the wings up and down to get them at ZERO. Again, dremel out the holes in the fuse to allow for movement. Cut a donut of lite-ply about 1.5" diameter. Drill a hole in the donut for the alignment pin. Set the wings at ZERO and glue the donuts inside the fuse. Double check to make sure nothing slips while the epoxy dries.
Sometimes, you can block up the back of the wing to support it while the glue dries.
Double, triple, quadruple check it all or you'll be doing it again after the glue dries. []
Again, this doesn't work on EVERY plane out there. But--the fuselage longeron is usually a good spot to start from. If your plans have a datum line--then use it. If it's an ARF, then you aren't going to get a plan or anything to tell you where the datum line is anyway--so use the best thing you got--the longeron.
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RE: Wing Incidence
Guys Thanks for all the great information it is much appreciated and will help in this and future builds. This plane a 540 my 2nd one of this class the first an ARF, I will have much time and money invested by the time she maidens so the more sure I am with the incidence and balance the less chance for a loss due to misshap. Thanks again gents for the valuable information that maybe oneday I will be as wise as you and pass this same information down to some young fellow in need of assistance so your greatness and wisdom is not in vain and will carry on in this great sport we call RC MODELING. THANKS JOEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!