You think this electric start will work?
#1
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You think this electric start will work?
You think this electric start will work for the zenoah engine's?
http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...ctid=AERSUL603
http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...ctid=AERSUL603
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
It will yes. What's wrong with a pull start? Saves you having to mess on with batteries, starters and pullies etc etc
Glenn
Glenn
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
that will work but not as well as a remote start that works off the transmitter and will save you carrying that and the 12 v battery
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
After i get water in the enine i flush it out with gas and wd-40 then i could be pulling on the pull start for at least 10 minutes to get it fired back up. Who makes an on board electric start that doesnt cost as much as the motor it self?
#7
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
ORIGINAL: glennb2006
It will yes. What's wrong with a pull start? Saves you having to mess on with batteries, starters and pullies etc etc
Glenn
It will yes. What's wrong with a pull start? Saves you having to mess on with batteries, starters and pullies etc etc
Glenn
I've already got the Dynatron and a Model 4 that I'll be dragging along anyway for my nitro boats plus I've got a bum pulling arm (rotator cuff) so if I can avoid hurting it any more which might end up in having surgery I can see why I'd use one. I kind of prefer the Speedmaster one as I can still keep the stock recoil in place.
#8
RE: You think this electric start will work?
Engine mounted starters are great.......... Really ?
I did one on a 44 CC chainsaw engine in a 8' PTB. It was great. I later went to electric for NO NOISE lakes.
Remember. 600 RPM cranking speed is easy, if you use a gear ratio 6 or 10 to 1. That also multiplies the starter motors power. Or, you only need a motor 1/10 of a Sullivan.
I used a 6 to 1 reduction gear ratio of TIMING ( toothed ) belts. Use Metric or American belt pitches of about 1/4" to keep alingment easy & a long belt life.
You MUST use a one way bearing, also called a clutch bearing, on the motor shaft so the starter stops when you rev up the gas motor. It works perfectly. IF, IF, you do not press the bearing in or on any thing with force. There are several ways to do it.
This is NOT a cheap setup to do.
You can LEAVE the battery out of the boat to save weight if needed.
I can scan my spare parts on to this post . Including the motor. It would give you a good idea of the parts count.
I did one on a 44 CC chainsaw engine in a 8' PTB. It was great. I later went to electric for NO NOISE lakes.
Remember. 600 RPM cranking speed is easy, if you use a gear ratio 6 or 10 to 1. That also multiplies the starter motors power. Or, you only need a motor 1/10 of a Sullivan.
I used a 6 to 1 reduction gear ratio of TIMING ( toothed ) belts. Use Metric or American belt pitches of about 1/4" to keep alingment easy & a long belt life.
You MUST use a one way bearing, also called a clutch bearing, on the motor shaft so the starter stops when you rev up the gas motor. It works perfectly. IF, IF, you do not press the bearing in or on any thing with force. There are several ways to do it.
This is NOT a cheap setup to do.
You can LEAVE the battery out of the boat to save weight if needed.
I can scan my spare parts on to this post . Including the motor. It would give you a good idea of the parts count.
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
ORIGINAL: Ron Olson
Glenn, I'm finding out quickly myself what's wrong with pull-starters. I tried firing up my gas mono last weekend for the first time and the first thing to go was that stupid little plastic dog on the recoil! Now I'm waiting for another one to come in sometime today I hope.
I've already got the Dynatron and a Model 4 that I'll be dragging along anyway for my nitro boats plus I've got a bum pulling arm (rotator cuff) so if I can avoid hurting it any more which might end up in having surgery I can see why I'd use one. I kind of prefer the Speedmaster one as I can still keep the stock recoil in place.
ORIGINAL: glennb2006
It will yes. What's wrong with a pull start? Saves you having to mess on with batteries, starters and pullies etc etc
Glenn
It will yes. What's wrong with a pull start? Saves you having to mess on with batteries, starters and pullies etc etc
Glenn
I've already got the Dynatron and a Model 4 that I'll be dragging along anyway for my nitro boats plus I've got a bum pulling arm (rotator cuff) so if I can avoid hurting it any more which might end up in having surgery I can see why I'd use one. I kind of prefer the Speedmaster one as I can still keep the stock recoil in place.
a fair point well put. I have fitted alloy drive dogs instead of the plastic ones to all my recoil starts after breaking one.
I find once the petrol engines have acouple of hours on them they are much less brutish to handle, starting really is a piece of cake.
I too carry 2 batteries and a Dynatron for the glow motors but it is nice to "pull and go" with the petrol boats sometimes.
The dodgy arm I can not help, so maybe electric start might be the way forward. The combined speedmaster collet and starter pulley is very neat, all collets should come with a vee pulley!
Glenn
#11
RE: You think this electric start will work?
Ok. Here is what you will need to have for a motor mounted starter.
You can start it from the transmitter or with a external battery and starterleads to a socket in the boats for a lightweight set up. I have done it both ways on my 44 CC chainsaw motor in the 8' PTB.
I will start a seperate reply box with all the scans of the parts. That way as I make mistakes I can update 1 box. I wasted a 1/2 hour doing them in the wrong format for this site.
Do NOT copy anything with writing next to it. That is for my engine.
Each gas engine & starter needs POSSIBLY different SIZE bores in the parts !!!!!!!!!!
A experienced motor person is need for each type so people do not buy the wrong parts.
WARNING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You will destroy the clutch bearing if it is forced into the motor pulley!!
That is the reason for the Fairlock pulley. It does NO damage to anything it SQUEEZES. No setscrews dig into the shaft / bearing. The motor shaft IS CAREFULLY !! glued to it with Lock-Tite.
A micrometer IS absolutly necessary to get the correct shaft sizes for each part.
This not for a beginner to attempt.
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RE: You think this electric start will work?
Ron once the motors run in it will start easy,new zens are a brute to start i agree but once they loosen up they start with little effort.Maybe let someone else start it the first few times for you if you have trouble with your arm [)].I like the fact you dont need to carry starting equipment when running gas but that said you say you run mainly nitro so you will have the gear with you anyway.
Mart
Mart
#15
RE: You think this electric start will work?
This is a RAM Radio controlled switch. It pulls in the starter motor on 12 vdc. It needs 1 channel & the starting point of stick travel is adjustable.
Forum is refusing uploads from me.
RAM RADIO is what I used stock # 08. Electronic switcher 20 amp. that plugs into a channel.
www.ramrcandrantrack.com phone # 847-740-8726
I give up on this forum uploads of pictures.
Forum is refusing uploads from me.
RAM RADIO is what I used stock # 08. Electronic switcher 20 amp. that plugs into a channel.
www.ramrcandrantrack.com phone # 847-740-8726
I give up on this forum uploads of pictures.