mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

Hi everyone. I have a fairly new DLE55 mounted in a Aeroworks 3D profile Extra 260. When I first got the engine and installed it; the engine didn't start. No spark. Tried another ignition and wasn't the same configuration. Reinstalled the original ignition. And now the engine started fine. The plane flew great for 12 flights. About a month ago I had a poor landing and crashed the plane. Rebuilt the plane, installed the engine back on and once again.....no start. Crank seems fine. No binding. Good battery voltage at module. Fuel is good. Even tried another spark plug. This time however if you take the plug out and ground it on the case it has spark. When you reinstall the plug and hook up the spark plug cap we have no start. The cap did get damaged slightly so I wrapped electrical tape around it to see if it might be grounding before it gets to the gap in the plug. I tried another ignition from DA and I had no spark anywhere. In or out of the engine. I did however run the wires for the pickup and battery backwards and thought I might have damaged the module but I'm told that may not be the case. The wiring from DA is simliar to JR for the pickup so I wired blk to brn and red to red and white to orange. For the battery red to red and blk to blk. Anyway I'm thinking the original module since it was a problem from the beginning might be failing under a load from the compression of the engine. Or the timing got screwed up when thre plane crashed. Sorry to be long winded but spent the whole day today trying to figure it out with no luck. Any thoughts that might help resolving this issue are appreciated.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

Also wanted to add the carb was taken apart and cleaned and checked with no major issues. Needles were set back at about 1-1/2 on low and high which is where they were before the crash and it ran fine.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

maybe thats the clue, anyway just send the engine to jody at valley view rc and for just a few usd you will get back a great engine to enjoy your profile.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Up until you tried the DA ignition it sounded more like a fuel problem, not ignition. 1-1/2 on the low needle was rich, as was the high. Read the post about no such thing as factory settings. Worst case was you were still using the factory provided spark plug, which is often a loser.

Once you mixed the DA system with your hall sensor it's anyone's guess. The two ignition systems are not the least bit compatible no matter how the wires are arranged. DA does not use a hall sensor. You may well have killed the hall sensor on your engine.

Just for giggles, did you try talking to the place you bought the engine from?

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

First the DA ignition won't spark by just moving the magnet past the sensor, it has to be above a certain speed.

Take the damaged cap off and see if it's arcing inside of the cap.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

I'm also assuming that there is no spark because the plug is soaked with fuel. Not even a spit or sputter with choke on or off. I even tried different fuel. Adding posts as I think of what has transpired.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

If I might have killed the hall sensor why would I still have spark with the plug removed and grounded? Does not appear to be any arcing inside the cap. However it's possible for it to be arcing once the plug is installed and the cap mounted. Also the needle settings worked fine before the crash. What settings would you recommend? Thanks.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

And yes I did contact the seller. He is willing to help me in any way needed.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Unless you change the entire ignition system, the DA system will not work with any part of the RC Exl system still in place. They do not share similar pick up technology. You can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by listening to that or continue down a dead end road. Your choice. The DA system will trigger off the hub magnet but I do not recall the timing being the same.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

I had the very same thing happen to my DL-50 after a slight mishap on landing. What I found was I had spark when the plug was out of the engine and grounded to the cylinder, but when I pulled the plug wire far enough to put it on the plug when installed I had no spark. So the only logical thing I could come up with, was that the high tension lead had a break inside and when it was at a certain angle I had spark but from there I had none.
Since the plug wire can't be changed out A new Ignition solved all my problems.
Check for spark on both sides of the cylinder that is how I caught mine.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The type of cap used is prone to having the spark ground across the top of the cap between sides, never making it to the plug. That was one of their reasons for using a spring at the bottom of the cap. To assure a positive ground between the plug and the cap. Another method of doing that would be in using a small hose clamp at the bottome of the cap to secure it tighly to the spark plug. It's also possible to not fully seat the cap on the plug, creating an air gap between the plug and the top of the cap. Hard for the spark to bridge that air gap.

I'm with Cyberwolf on trying a new ignition but I would also go back and insure that I had the ignition assembled correctly and had the cap installed properly on the plug. If the factory plugs were still in the engine they would be discarded and replaced with NGK CM-6 plugs.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

Thanks to all. It seems that the ignition sytem is the problem since it did receive some damage and in fact did open that cap slightly. Yes the ignition was assembled correctly. Just so everyone knows www.boats.net has CM6 NGK spark plugs for $1.97. Thought that was a great deal. Again thanks for everone's help. Have a great and safe day.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Pretty sure all you need is a new spark plug cap, they are easy to replace. When they receive an impact with the plug installed, the tip of the plug cuts a hole in the silicone boot inside the cap. It's easier for the spark to jump to ground through that cut than at the plug gap in the cylinder, under compression and wet with fuel.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Jody
Do you sell the cap and silicon boot?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Of course.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

Makes sense to me. The only thing that concerns me with this ignition system is when I first got the engine. Going back to the first post.

mitchsnap

My Feedback: (33)

Makes sense to me. The only thing that concerns me with this ignition system is when I first got the engine. Going back to the first post.

mpascual

My Feedback: (1)

I'm totally agree with Jody:

Almost all ignitions sent to me to repair , only need to change the spark plug cap. Then after install a new cap kit , ignition works fine again.
If the plug cap touches the ground on a heavy landing , be sure, 99% of times the silicone boot is damaged with spark plug top edge.

Regards

MetallicaJunkie

might be the Hall Sensor...i had one fail on me once

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Keep in mind you need 4 things to run. If it won't start at all you're missing one.

Fuel
Fire (spark)
Air
and Compression