Mega Inrunner - removing backplate??
10-12-2010, 12:57 PM
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Mega Inrunner - removing backplate??
Folks,
I need to dismantle my Mega 22/20/4 inrunner to change the bearings.
I have dremelled relief slots in the outer casing, so the rivets can slide out, but there is no way I can shift the backplate.
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It seems to be glued in.
-
Has anyone ever done this??
-
If so, please comment if you can.
-
Many Thanks, Steve
I need to dismantle my Mega 22/20/4 inrunner to change the bearings.
I have dremelled relief slots in the outer casing, so the rivets can slide out, but there is no way I can shift the backplate.
-
It seems to be glued in.
-
Has anyone ever done this??
-
If so, please comment if you can.
-
Many Thanks, Steve
10-14-2010, 03:08 AM
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RE: Mega Inrunner - removing backplate??
Success!!!!!
Received email from Dan Matyas at Mega, suggesting heatgun on backplate to soften glue, so:-
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Fashioned a steel plate, to accomodate shaft and 4 x M3 mounting holes, wrapped foil round all apart from last 5mm of rear of casing, and played heatgun over this.
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Eventually hot enough, that, with all my weight on both thumbs on the "wings" of the plate, shaft vertically onto wood block, it popped out.
(also drifted the front bearing out of the front of the case, which had been red loctited to shaft....maybe that's why all so stiff)
-
Next time, will make up wood block arrangment , to be able to do this in my vice, ie, 2 x blocks, longer than motor length, between the plate "wings" and one jaw of the vice...the other jaw pressing against the end of the shaft. (should be more controlled!)
5x11x5 ABEC3 spec. bearings from RCBEARINGS (UK) for £1 each, should be good as new.
Ordered good quality M2 tap set to re-drill case/backplate next to existing rivet positions, should be easy job next time.
-
You can see why these motors are expensive, with each armature dynamically balanced (small blobs of green epoxy "putty" used to correct).
-
Rgds, Steve
Received email from Dan Matyas at Mega, suggesting heatgun on backplate to soften glue, so:-
-
Fashioned a steel plate, to accomodate shaft and 4 x M3 mounting holes, wrapped foil round all apart from last 5mm of rear of casing, and played heatgun over this.
-
Eventually hot enough, that, with all my weight on both thumbs on the "wings" of the plate, shaft vertically onto wood block, it popped out.
(also drifted the front bearing out of the front of the case, which had been red loctited to shaft....maybe that's why all so stiff)
-
Next time, will make up wood block arrangment , to be able to do this in my vice, ie, 2 x blocks, longer than motor length, between the plate "wings" and one jaw of the vice...the other jaw pressing against the end of the shaft. (should be more controlled!)
5x11x5 ABEC3 spec. bearings from RCBEARINGS (UK) for £1 each, should be good as new.
Ordered good quality M2 tap set to re-drill case/backplate next to existing rivet positions, should be easy job next time.
-
You can see why these motors are expensive, with each armature dynamically balanced (small blobs of green epoxy "putty" used to correct).
-
Rgds, Steve
