E firewall for Bravo
05-14-2011, 06:43 AM
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E firewall for Bravo
Does anyone by chance have a template for a firewall for the Wistmodel / Lorenz Bravo.
What method are you guys using to get the shape of the firewall and what material and glue are you using
Thanks
What method are you guys using to get the shape of the firewall and what material and glue are you using
Thanks
05-14-2011, 11:18 AM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
Hi Chris, this is the way I do it, to mount the rear of an out runner to a firewall:
1/ Attach the spinner backplate to the motor’s prop driver.
2/With 1/161/8th spacers between the backplate and the fus.nose, tape the backplate and motor securely in place.
3/ Cut a small square of liteply, just big enough to carry whatever fixings (eg bolts) you will be using to fix the motor to the firewall, and fix it to the back of the motor.
4/ cyano multiple 1/8 or so balsa sticks to the liteply square, with each stick radiating out to touch the fus sides.
You’ll end up with something like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
5/Remove the porcupine,draw round the edge,and produce a liteply firewall template., to check the fit to the fus, fixing points, &c.
For the actual firewall, I use two layers of 1/8 liteply, with the outer ply grains at 90 degrees to each other, skinned with 200 gram/sq.metre carbon or glass cloth front and back, all fixed under pressure(I use g-clamps, melamine-faced chipboard, with black polythene bin-liner separating film),using wing-skinning epoxy.
I glue the firewall in,bolted up to the back of the motor, with 24-hour araldite, reinforced with beads of 30-minute epoxy/micro balloons around the margins,front and back faces.
Here(shades of Blue Peter) is one I made earlier:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
1/ Attach the spinner backplate to the motor’s prop driver.
2/With 1/161/8th spacers between the backplate and the fus.nose, tape the backplate and motor securely in place.
3/ Cut a small square of liteply, just big enough to carry whatever fixings (eg bolts) you will be using to fix the motor to the firewall, and fix it to the back of the motor.
4/ cyano multiple 1/8 or so balsa sticks to the liteply square, with each stick radiating out to touch the fus sides.
You’ll end up with something like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
5/Remove the porcupine,draw round the edge,and produce a liteply firewall template., to check the fit to the fus, fixing points, &c.
For the actual firewall, I use two layers of 1/8 liteply, with the outer ply grains at 90 degrees to each other, skinned with 200 gram/sq.metre carbon or glass cloth front and back, all fixed under pressure(I use g-clamps, melamine-faced chipboard, with black polythene bin-liner separating film),using wing-skinning epoxy.
I glue the firewall in,bolted up to the back of the motor, with 24-hour araldite, reinforced with beads of 30-minute epoxy/micro balloons around the margins,front and back faces.
Here(shades of Blue Peter) is one I made earlier:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
05-14-2011, 08:58 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
ORIGINAL: f3a05
Hi Chris, this is the way I do it, to mount the rear of an out runner to a firewall:
1/ Attach the spinner backplate to the motor’s prop driver.
2/With 1/161/8th spacers between the backplate and the fus.nose, tape the backplate and motor securely in place.
3/ Cut a small square of liteply, just big enough to carry whatever fixings (eg bolts) you will be using to fix the motor to the firewall, and fix it to the back of the motor.
4/ cyano multiple 1/8 or so balsa sticks to the liteply square, with each stick radiating out to touch the fus sides.
You’ll end up with something like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
5/Remove the porcupine,draw round the edge,and produce a liteply firewall template., to check the fit to the fus, fixing points, &c.
For the actual firewall, I use two layers of 1/8 liteply, with the outer ply grains at 90 degrees to each other, skinned with 200 gram/sq.metre carbon or glass cloth front and back, all fixed under pressure(I use g-clamps, melamine-faced chipboard, with black polythene bin-liner separating film),using wing-skinning epoxy.
I glue the firewall in,bolted up to the back of the motor, with 24-hour araldite, reinforced with beads of 30-minute epoxy/micro balloons around the margins,front and back faces.
Here(shades of Blue Peter) is one I made earlier:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hi Chris, this is the way I do it, to mount the rear of an out runner to a firewall:
1/ Attach the spinner backplate to the motor’s prop driver.
2/With 1/161/8th spacers between the backplate and the fus.nose, tape the backplate and motor securely in place.
3/ Cut a small square of liteply, just big enough to carry whatever fixings (eg bolts) you will be using to fix the motor to the firewall, and fix it to the back of the motor.
4/ cyano multiple 1/8 or so balsa sticks to the liteply square, with each stick radiating out to touch the fus sides.
You’ll end up with something like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
5/Remove the porcupine,draw round the edge,and produce a liteply firewall template., to check the fit to the fus, fixing points, &c.
For the actual firewall, I use two layers of 1/8 liteply, with the outer ply grains at 90 degrees to each other, skinned with 200 gram/sq.metre carbon or glass cloth front and back, all fixed under pressure(I use g-clamps, melamine-faced chipboard, with black polythene bin-liner separating film),using wing-skinning epoxy.
I glue the firewall in,bolted up to the back of the motor, with 24-hour araldite, reinforced with beads of 30-minute epoxy/micro balloons around the margins,front and back faces.
Here(shades of Blue Peter) is one I made earlier:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Thanks for sharing, I'll have to try that on my next build.
05-14-2011, 11:05 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
Thank you Alan,
The motor will be the Himax which will as far as I can see only mount via a firewall
Really pleased with the Bravo quality so far
The motor will be the Himax which will as far as I can see only mount via a firewall
Really pleased with the Bravo quality so far
10-01-2011, 04:21 AM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
As requested sir
Not yet spun the Himax but the fus now fully fretted out where needed and carbon horns on order
I have also ordered more carbon kevlar for the battery tray. Peally got the laminating bug now
Pity there is not more about this ship on here.
Not yet spun the Himax but the fus now fully fretted out where needed and carbon horns on order
I have also ordered more carbon kevlar for the battery tray. Peally got the laminating bug now
Pity there is not more about this ship on here.
10-01-2011, 11:43 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
Nice work mate!
That firewall looks like the 'scream' mask
You should have said, I've got more CK cloth here you could have had
As an aside, the Twister is going in to primer (maybe today), got all the prep done last sunday in the club workshop so should be ready in around a week [X(]..............or two.
No joy with the masks yet though, seems our northern brother has gone to ground [&o]
Drop me a text if you need owt...............
Andy.
That firewall looks like the 'scream' mask
You should have said, I've got more CK cloth here you could have had
As an aside, the Twister is going in to primer (maybe today), got all the prep done last sunday in the club workshop so should be ready in around a week [X(]..............or two
.No joy with the masks yet though, seems our northern brother has gone to ground [&o]
Drop me a text if you need owt...............
Andy.
11-21-2011, 01:21 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
Hello Chris, good to see you on here (and Alan "legend" Wild too)
I will be sticking a Plettenberg in my Bravo, my issue is removal of the motor for maintenance and what not. I like Alans method, but think I'll make a lip, say 15-20mm deep, which the actual firewall will then bolt onto, that way you can pop yer motor in and out with ease. Any thoughts?
I will be sticking a Plettenberg in my Bravo, my issue is removal of the motor for maintenance and what not. I like Alans method, but think I'll make a lip, say 15-20mm deep, which the actual firewall will then bolt onto, that way you can pop yer motor in and out with ease. Any thoughts?
11-21-2011, 02:43 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
Hi Shahid,
It is never going to be easy to remove the firewall backwards with the motor on an get it past the undercarriage mount ( which is by the way beautiful engineering) The Himax is 63mm diameter and with the nose fretted out there is plenty of room to remove the motor from the 83mm nose.
Nose fretted out with diamond burr to about 65mm
C
It is never going to be easy to remove the firewall backwards with the motor on an get it past the undercarriage mount ( which is by the way beautiful engineering) The Himax is 63mm diameter and with the nose fretted out there is plenty of room to remove the motor from the 83mm nose.
Nose fretted out with diamond burr to about 65mm
C
11-23-2011, 04:46 PM
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RE: E firewall for Bravo
The Plett is 60mm diameter so you might just have a point!
Such a shame to fret the nose out, but Hacker is not for me [8D]
Such a shame to fret the nose out, but Hacker is not for me [8D]
