painted iron-on covering
#1
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painted iron-on covering
I want to use an iron on covering (21st Century) as a white base on a Giant Aeromaster. Gasoline power is being used so Rustoleum spray bomb for secondary color is being considered. How will the Rustoleum painted areas respond to the occasional 'tightening up' with heat gun or iron? please share your first hand experience. If this subject has been beaten to death please point me to the post as I have yet to find it..... thanks
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RE: painted iron-on covering
Hi, I've painted over monokote long time ago and eventually it will scratch. Looks like old plane... That time I used plastic model paints (testors or model maste)r and apply a clear coat to protect from glow fuel. The covering was chrome, so when the paint scratched it looks like metal. Maybe if you sand with fine grit can get better results... good luck with your proyect.
regards,
regards,
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RE: painted iron-on covering
thanks for your reply....I did not mention I want to use an iron on FABRIC covering like 21st Century or more likely Balsa USA's Solartex. Any more info will be appreciated
#4
RE: painted iron-on covering
If you are willing to accept some minor adhesion problems, your plan will work. Some repair (re-painting) of the trim will be occasionally required.
My 10+ year old Monocoupe is covered with 21st Century Fabric, Cub Yellow. The trim is Krylon black. I've had to touch it up a few times, but it still looks good.
Have you considered painting the whole airframe ?
Lately, I have been covering my models with Natural Solartex, and spraying them with Rustoleum. Spraying the entire airframe with color, eliminates the need for a clear coat. I've been buying my Rustoleum in quart cans thinning it with acetone, and adding an automotive hardener. I use a spray outfit.
I'm pleased with the results, but I realize that it may not be a practical solution for you. Recently, I painted a friend's 1/4 scale Cub with Rustoleum aerosol. The model was covered in Natural Solartex. No primer was used. It took 6 cans of aerosol. The fiinsh has a nice, realistic gloss. I find the Solartex to be easier to work with, than the 21st Century Fabric.
As far as Rustoleum holding up to occasional heat gun usage, it will, if you are careful.
Here are some pics., the 21st Century Fabric covered, Krylon trimmed, Monocoupe; A Spacewalker and Cessna Airmaster painted with Rustoleum/hardener; and the aerosol painted Cub.
My 10+ year old Monocoupe is covered with 21st Century Fabric, Cub Yellow. The trim is Krylon black. I've had to touch it up a few times, but it still looks good.
Have you considered painting the whole airframe ?
Lately, I have been covering my models with Natural Solartex, and spraying them with Rustoleum. Spraying the entire airframe with color, eliminates the need for a clear coat. I've been buying my Rustoleum in quart cans thinning it with acetone, and adding an automotive hardener. I use a spray outfit.
I'm pleased with the results, but I realize that it may not be a practical solution for you. Recently, I painted a friend's 1/4 scale Cub with Rustoleum aerosol. The model was covered in Natural Solartex. No primer was used. It took 6 cans of aerosol. The fiinsh has a nice, realistic gloss. I find the Solartex to be easier to work with, than the 21st Century Fabric.
As far as Rustoleum holding up to occasional heat gun usage, it will, if you are careful.
Here are some pics., the 21st Century Fabric covered, Krylon trimmed, Monocoupe; A Spacewalker and Cessna Airmaster painted with Rustoleum/hardener; and the aerosol painted Cub.
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RE: painted iron-on covering
Thank you so much for the reply Tom. Since posting and after a researching a little deeper I have decided on Solartex natural and painting the whole thing. I am more comfortable doing that than applying spray bomb over the other colors. Your planes look great and I will follow your recomendations. Thanks agin!
#6
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RE: painted iron-on covering
You do realize that Rustoleum while being a great paint to use is also one of the heaviest paints. I know that large models can carry additional weight but if you want an eye opener weigh your model before you paint it and then after. The results just might shock you.
That said I use it but as I fly more C/L now it is used only for the fuselage and the rest is plastic film. I'd love to paint the whole thing but the weight penalty is more then most of my models can handle
That said I use it but as I fly more C/L now it is used only for the fuselage and the rest is plastic film. I'd love to paint the whole thing but the weight penalty is more then most of my models can handle
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RE: painted iron-on covering
I'm going for a satin, slightly faded appearance so a lot of paint to get it to flow out with high gloss is not in my plan. the colors I want are available in the satin variety. Thank you for your input.
#8
RE: painted iron-on covering
Weight shouldn't be an issue. Your model has decent size, and it isn't a 3 D type, where the additional weight could cause performance problems.
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RE: painted iron-on covering
Right on! I'm going for a used and faded appearance. It is to look a little like the old paint scheme on a 1940 WACO that flies sightseers in Myrtle Beach SC. It was orange and cream for many years and this year it's sporting a 4+ year restoration with a beautiful yellow and blue scheme. The orange and cream was cool and I took a 1 hour ride in it about 6 years ago so it's kinda special to me.
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RE: painted iron-on covering
I've painted 21st Century fabric, Monocote and Ulltracoat primarily with PPG automotive paint but also the trim colors that one can buy for the various colors. My method is to mask (use fine line tape) the area I want to paint then gently rough the surface with 0000 steel wool; and also the mask line with 400 grit wet dry paper. Clean with a tack rag and acetone then a degreaser and paint. I put down just enough paint to cover as this can add onces if not pounds to your aircraft if you are not careful. (Ask me how I know!!) I've had no problems with adhesion over the years. I have a ACE Weeks Special with 21st Century that was painted in 1990 that still looks great.
Mike
Mike