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Need help choosing on road car

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Old 10-21-2013, 03:03 PM
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Jew1028
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Default Need help choosing on road car

I am looking for an on road awd car. Any suggestions? I have off road trucks but am new to cars. I am looking for something to race with my buddies in a parking lot. I want something brushless and not too expensive. I looked at team associated apex touring but that's about it any suggestions would be awesome!
Old 10-22-2013, 09:02 PM
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rcjlmb
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you can try to see motonica
Old 10-30-2013, 04:30 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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Originally Posted by Jew1028
I am looking for an on road awd car. Any suggestions? I have off road trucks but am new to cars. I am looking for something to race with my buddies in a parking lot. I want something brushless and not too expensive. I looked at team associated apex touring but that's about it any suggestions would be awesome!

Have you you looked at the tamiya ta06 and ta06 pro, they are quite affordable and well balanced and can be set up easily for street racing or drifting..
Old 11-03-2013, 12:22 PM
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i8tweety
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I would look at the Tamiya TT01 chassis and the associated TC4 club racer. For parking lot racing, a molded chassis is a better choice than graphite or carbon fiber durability wise.
Old 11-03-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by i8tweety
I would look at the Tamiya TT01 chassis and the associated TC4 club racer. For parking lot racing, a molded chassis is a better choice than graphite or carbon fiber durability wise.
TT01e ford SVT F-150 Lightning edition ($125 at tower) + HW35a EZ-run 10t combo ($75ish), a spare servo, and a flysky 2.4ghz radio ($17-$22) would do the trick. Only say this as I actually have everything listed I listed together, and that sucker royally flies down the street (when I can find one that isn't riddled with potholes)
Old 12-03-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SyCo_VeNoM
TT01e ford SVT F-150 Lightning edition ($125 at tower) + HW35a EZ-run 10t combo ($75ish), a spare servo, and a flysky 2.4ghz radio ($17-$22) would do the trick. Only say this as I actually have everything listed I listed together, and that sucker royally flies down the street (when I can find one that isn't riddled with potholes)
How do you drive that understeering mess with bushings and a brushless motor?

OP -

Its not worth the cost savings to get a TT-01E when the TT-02 is available. I know bodies are limited at this point. Pay about $20 more and get a TT-02 from Japan or HK, there at least three more cars available since Tower claims they haven't gotten their shipment yet.

Forget the brushless and save your money, a TT-02 with the stock motor and Lipo will do 27-30 mph. Focus on the weak points. The TT-02 fixed the sloppy steering issue with all TT-01's chassis. Therefore the next weak point is bushing instead of bearings and friction shocks instead of oil shocks.

In that case, the Kyosho EP Fazer cars are a bit better value, let me explain.

For $190 or so you get a RTR with bearings and oil shocks installed already. To equal that with a TT-02, you have to find a TT-02 RTR which are not available widely yet. If its just a basher, a TT-01E RTR is decent, call up RCMart's website and order up, turnbuckles, oil shocks, tire inserts (foam) and ball bearings.

That would put you around $230 RTR with a AM radio or 2.4Ghz depending what you get.

THEN, I would consider a sensorless brushless motor, not 10T, get 17.5 which is much faster than a 27T 23 degree motor ("Stock" motor). In fact you want to race it later, you won't have to go and spend another $50-%60 for a new motor. Most club racing will be either 17.5 or 21.5 or even 25.5 which is VTA depending on rules of the local track.

If its strictly bashing, maybe consider a RedCat which runs $150 or so RTR. It makes a decent racer too, have a look at BillyDeLong's thread on Ultimate R/C.

I will also mention the TT-02 gives you a few options the other cars don't; adjustable wheelbase, adjustable ride height and adjustable tract. That will allow you to fit bodies that are too big for M chassis and too small for typical 190mm cars. The adjustable ride height is not shock placement or shock length dependent, you flip the knuckles on the car to gain an extra 7-8mm over the standard ride height which will put you around 10-12mm of ride height, perfect for aggressive rallycross type driving and occasional use on a typical 1/10 scale off-road track.

Flip the knuckles again and you're ready for local racing action.

To recap -

If scale looks is important you can't beat Tamiya, second I would say Kyosho but spare and optional parts are mainly only available online. Third I would say HPI, though some don't like the Sprint 2 (Belt) or older E10 chassis (shaft), but the bodies are scale.

If scale is less important than price, then Redcat or HSP 1/10 scale cars are well under $200 RTR, you can replace the non-scale body with something more realistic as budget allows. Makes a decent club racer on a budget, drifter and rally car without a ton of changes. The stock oil shocks however aren't that great and need heavy shock oil to provide damping because of their design. This is especially important for rough pavement/off-road driving.

Trust me I have done the research and these are might conclusions to basically the same problem only I am returning to R/C after a false start back in 2011.

Good Luck
Old 12-06-2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dj4monie
How do you drive that understeering mess with bushings and a brushless motor?
Well easy
its no where near stock lol
ball bearings through out (put them straight on while building)
all metal gears in in so none could strip (modified DF-02 crown gears to fit, newer ones I hear come with the metal gears)
Aluminum steering, servo saver with no spare wiggle room as the tamiya one fell apart in a day, aluminum rear hubs, and aluminum knuckles. Also swapped the shocks to a RS4's shocks (got a set of 4 for like $7 shipped off ebay a long time ago)
I also have CVD's throughout, and steel outdrive cups.
so I think I paid like $40 for upgrades as I found a few deals (not counting the CVD's as those were kinda pricy, but also not needed)

As for its steering I find its perfect for me although I will admit I don't race.
Old 12-07-2013, 01:52 PM
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Sounds reasonable. At first though it sounded like you added a hot brushless to a box stock car, not that I haven't seen that done. On smooth surfaces the friction shocks are fine, but the body roll doesn't help the sloppy steering. As you said you fixed that with the aftermarket upgrades.
Old 12-08-2013, 04:55 AM
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Norman2
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Hi, I would definitely choose the Kyosho EP Fazer over the Tamiya TT-01 or TT-02 versions. The car has much
better quality, handling, Ball Bearings, Sport Motor, Esc and is ready to run. The Body is also just as good or better
than any Tamiya in detail. I am very happy with mine. Only thing I did was go to a 15T Brushed motor. See Attached
Photos. Regards
Norman
PS It alos comes with oil filled shocks not the crappy friction junk Tamiya has. It also comes
with 2.4 Radio and only 199.00 at A-Main Hobbies. Body is pre-painted and with decals.
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:01 PM
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dj4monie
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Originally Posted by Norman2
Hi, I would definitely choose the Kyosho EP Fazer over the Tamiya TT-01 or TT-02 versions. The car has much
better quality, handling, Ball Bearings, Sport Motor, Esc and is ready to run. The Body is also just as good or better
than any Tamiya in detail. I am very happy with mine. Only thing I did was go to a 15T Brushed motor. See Attached
Photos. Regards
Norman
PS It also comes with oil filled shocks not the crappy friction junk Tamiya has. It also comes
with 2.4 Radio and only 199.00 at A-Main Hobbies. Body is pre-painted and with decals.
Thanks for that, I have a Kyosho EP Fazer Subaru WRX 2008 in my cart for $193 and that smokes any Tamiya car for the same price.

A TT-01E XBS runs about $198, maybe about $180 (with Tower coupon code) both come with friction shocks and bushings. TT-02 XB run $300+! You can get them for just over $202 from Banazi which is a tremendous savings ($100) but still come with friction shocks and bushings. I won't defend Tamiya and its outlets in the US because to upgrade a TT-01E or TT-02 to equal the Kyosho Fazer it will cost about $45-$50 with shipping. Even if you get the parts overseas, its still $22-$25 for cva shocks and bearings.

The $30-$40 saved easily affords a good 30-40C 5000mah Lipo.

Norman, how is the range on the Kyosho 2.4Ghz radio? In Jang's review of the Kyosho 1/9 version of the same car there was a glitch around 50-75ft. Does this happen to your car?

How have you found the damping control of the stocks with the oem shock oil?

As much as I like Tamiya and have owned a few of them, they continue milking the customer for upgrades that should be included on the car at this point.

However I must say I have wanted to run the Tamiya Championship Series. I just may get both, but I may get the Kyosho first.

One more thing, did your car come with light buckets?
Old 12-08-2013, 02:10 PM
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Norman2
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Hi, First I use my own oil on the shocks. Have had no problem with my TX and RX. No glitches at all. I did lock out the reverse function on the ESC. I also changed shock springs in front and back. No front light buckets but there is space to use led in the buckets that are
attached to the body. I have a lot of RC Cars and surprise the only Tamiya I have is a F! chassis F104 that I modified to run LMP class
in my local track.I also runa a Kyosho TF-6 in TC with an Audi DTM body. See attached photos. Regards
Norman
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:51 PM
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dj4monie
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Originally Posted by Norman2
Hi, First I use my own oil on the shocks. Have had no problem with my TX and RX. No glitches at all. I did lock out the reverse function on the ESC. I also changed shock springs in front and back. No front light buckets but there is space to use led in the buckets that are
attached to the body. I have a lot of RC Cars and surprise the only Tamiya I have is a F! chassis F104 that I modified to run LMP class
in my local track.I also run a a Kyosho TF-6 in TC with an Audi DTM body. See attached photos. Regards
Norman
They look good!

Where did you get the springs from and may I ask what shock weight oil you run? I have seen the optional parts list (pdf) on Kyosho America's website and it list a set of springs for one part number and you get soft, medium and hard I assume on based on the stock springs in the car.

I will be running the Subaru on pavement and dirt. I may pick up some 60mm shocks to get some more ride height and make it easier to handle an indoor 1/10 scale track. I'm also going to run some more aggressive rubber, HPI Pirelli Rally tires (Gravel/Pavement) and +3 offset HPI wheels.

From the Kyosho America videos of the car, it seems well damped but the car does bounce a bit on non-scale rocks.

That is more than I can say for the same Tamiya TT-01E that bounced all over the place on its friction shocks and no tire inserts.

Its these details even with the release of the TT-02 and the desire to want the most affordable RTR that will do what I want it too do, I am heavily leaning on the Kyosho.

Some call it unnecessary and tried to make me choose without giving a good reason to consider one or the other. Thanks again Norman you lay it down simply and there's nothing to add to the Kyosho other than a batteries and go.
Old 12-08-2013, 07:12 PM
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Norman2
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Originally Posted by dj4monie
They look good!

Where did you get the springs from and may I ask what shock weight oil you run? I have seen the optional parts list (pdf) on Kyosho America's website and it list a set of springs for one part number and you get soft, medium and hard I assume on based on the stock springs in the car.

I will be running the Subaru on pavement and dirt. I may pick up some 60mm shocks to get some more ride height and make it easier to handle an indoor 1/10 scale track. I'm also going to run some more aggressive rubber, HPI Pirelli Rally tires (Gravel/Pavement) and +3 offset HPI wheels.

From the Kyosho America videos of the car, it seems well damped but the car does bounce a bit on non-scale rocks.

That is more than I can say for the same Tamiya TT-01E that bounced all over the place on its friction shocks and no tire inserts.

Its these details even with the release of the TT-02 and the desire to want the most affordable RTR that will do what I want it too do, I am heavily leaning on the Kyosho.

Some call it unnecessary and tried to make me choose without giving a good reason to consider one or the other. Thanks again Norman you lay it down simply and there's nothing to add to the Kyosho other than a batteries and go.
HI. The oil I use in the Fazer EP shocks is Castrol 5W 30 Auto synthetic oil. springs are Kyosho TF-5/6 Yellow springs front and rear.
I do not rally so I use Kyosho soft front slicks and medium rear slicks. These work the best for me. The Fazer EP is quite a good car
and you will not be sorry you got it. Regards
Norman
PS. I get all my parts from a Hobby shop called Infernos Only and if he does not have them in stock
he will order for me. Regards
Norman
Old 12-09-2013, 01:43 AM
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Thanks, I know of InfernosOnly, A-Main, FPP and other shop back east.

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