Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Tips & Techniques
Reload this Page >

Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

Community
Search
Notices
Tips & Techniques Want to share a tip or special technique you have either in the workshop or at the flying field or race track? Post it right here!

Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-22-2003, 11:44 AM
  #1  
keqwow
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

I just finished my latest project with monokote and I'm really not happy with the end result. I'm looking more and more at glassing, especially if I'm thinking of doing the TF corsair for my next project, as I'd really like to get that "battle used warbird" final finish if at all possible. Two big questions I have on glassing are:
1) Glassing, from what I've read, can only be used on sheeted surfaces. So if I plan to cover the wing and fuselage of the Corsair with glass, what would I cover the rudder and elevator with, since they are framed and not sheeted on the corsiar kit? I'd ovsiously like the whole plane to look uniform in the end.
2) Finally, with Monokote, you reheat to take any warping out of the wing, how to you fix any warping you might have after you've finished a wing with glass?
Old 09-22-2003, 08:47 PM
  #2  
Walter D
My Feedback: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: palm harbor, FL
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

I would cover the control surfaces with a polyester covering, like Solartex, Worldtex, Super Coverite (my favorite), dope these coverings with low shrink butyrate dope from Sig Manufacturing, light sanding, just to remove the fuzz and then paint, same as the rest.

Another option that you have when covering the airplane is to use silkspan instead of fiberglass, it is a very inexpensive and great way to finish a model this size, and light too, read Sigs manual on how to use this covering, do not use it for open surfaces, not strong enough, just like fiberglass.

And then another option is to cover the entire structure with the above mentioned polyester covering and doping the surface to fill the weave and then painted. this is by far the strongest way of covering any model and will outlive anything.
Old 09-22-2003, 09:06 PM
  #3  
Juice
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Richmond Hill, ON, CANADA
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

1) All the control surfaces on the full-size Corsair were fabric covered. This includes the elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps. It doesn't look like they are, but they are. If you do a search on RCU, you'll find that the most popular choice is to use Solartex. It takes paint well, so the end result will still look uniform.

2) You cannot unwarp a fiberglassed wing like you can a monokoted wing. You have to remove the warp before you fiberglass the wing.

Juice
Old 10-06-2003, 10:23 PM
  #4  
Jimmbbo
Senior Member
 
Jimmbbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?

I agree with Walter...

Silkspan is great for just what you're planning - it's far easier to apply than glass, much lighter, has less grain to fill, is a whole bunch cheaper, and takes maybe a bit less time.

Silkspan comes in several weights, and you probably want heavier rather than lighter for that size kit.

I spray the silkspan with water or rubbing alcohol (water if humidity is really low, alcohol if it's higher), then lay it flat on a towel while I dope the surface to be covered. I then lay the silkspan down carefully, doping as neccesary to make it stay.

One additional benefit is that mistakes are easy to fix. Just use a #11 blade and a flexible straightedge to cut out the offending region, pull the damaged silkspan off the model, and redo... I have used this method a half dozen times with great results.

When dry, fill in the grain by brushing on a 25% thinned dope/ 15% talcum powder mixture or spraying with sandable primer, sand and prime progressively starting with 240 down to 600 grit to set up for a real smooth finish, or 320/400 for a bit rougher one. You'll have a perfect finish to put on your camo.


Jim

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Manage Preferences Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.