Nead some tips on glassing
09-17-2003, 06:50 AM
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Nead some tips on glassing
I’m going to glass my TopFlite P-47 1/8 scale but have never done it before. I worked with polyester before on my boat but not like this. I need all help I can get before I start doing this. Are there any site on The Internet on how to do and what kind of fiber to use and so on? I also need a pilot for this one. I can’t find a WWII pilot in that scale. Lots of pilots in 1/7 scale and 1/6 but they will look too big.
09-17-2003, 04:03 PM
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RE: Nead some tips on glassing
Check out the JHH website at http://www.jethangar.com
You will find the information you need under the "Construction Tips" section on the sidebar.
Practice on a piece of 1/4 inch balsa to get a feel for the glass cloth and resin. This also helps you find out what the working time of the resin really is in your workshop; temperature and humidity can change the working time.
Do the wings following the directions at JHH; that will give you the experience and confidence to tackle the fuselage.
The difference on the fuse is the compound curves not found on most wings. Brushing the fiberglass as it drapes over the fuse with a soft bristle brush will usually create enough static electricity to get it to conform to most curves. If not a VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY, LIGHT, LIGHT, LIGHT dusting of spray contact cement will get the glass to lay smooth. Spray only where you need it. Again, practice on the fuse without using resin to see how well the glass conforms. Rarely, you will need to cut the cloth to get it to lay into the concave areas but that is usually with heavier cloth.
Finally, realize that if you use resins long enough you will develop a sensitivity. How long that takes varies person to person. Use a good respirator and nitrile gloves to keep the stuff out of you and off of you!!!!
You will find the information you need under the "Construction Tips" section on the sidebar.
Practice on a piece of 1/4 inch balsa to get a feel for the glass cloth and resin. This also helps you find out what the working time of the resin really is in your workshop; temperature and humidity can change the working time.
Do the wings following the directions at JHH; that will give you the experience and confidence to tackle the fuselage.
The difference on the fuse is the compound curves not found on most wings. Brushing the fiberglass as it drapes over the fuse with a soft bristle brush will usually create enough static electricity to get it to conform to most curves. If not a VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY, LIGHT, LIGHT, LIGHT dusting of spray contact cement will get the glass to lay smooth. Spray only where you need it. Again, practice on the fuse without using resin to see how well the glass conforms. Rarely, you will need to cut the cloth to get it to lay into the concave areas but that is usually with heavier cloth.
Finally, realize that if you use resins long enough you will develop a sensitivity. How long that takes varies person to person. Use a good respirator and nitrile gloves to keep the stuff out of you and off of you!!!!
09-17-2003, 05:48 PM
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RE: Nead some tips on glassing
Try Vailly Aviation. They have pilots in all sizes. I saw them at Toledo this year and they had pilots in the correct size for the Top Flite warbirds.
http://www.vaillyaviation.com/Intro.html
http://www.vaillyaviation.com/Intro.html
10-06-2003, 10:33 PM
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RE: Nead some tips on glassing
Another thought -
If you are really adept at glassing on your boat, the process is the same on a model, but the glass will be much thinner and more challenging to work.
Before "moneycoat", silkspan was used for covering airplanes, and is great for just what you're planning - it's far easier to apply than glass, much lighter, has less grain to fill, is a whole bunch cheaper, and takes maybe a bit less time.
Silkspan comes in several weights, and you probably want heavier rather than lighter for that size kit.
After cutting an approximate shape, for covering, I spray the silkspan with water or rubbing alcohol (water if humidity is really low, alcohol if it's higher), then lay it flat on a towel while I dope the surface to be covered using clear butyrate dope, maybe thinned 25% with thinner, depending on humidity. I then lay the silkspan down carefully, doping as neccesary from the outside to make it stay.
One additional benefit is that mistakes are easy to fix. Just use a #11 blade and a flexible straightedge to cut out the offending region, pull the damaged silkspan off the model, and redo... I have used this method a half dozen times with great results.
When dry, fill in the grain by spraying with 3 - 4 coats of sandable primer, then alternately sand and prime -progressively starting with 240 down to 600 grit to set up for a real smooth finish, or 320/400 for a bit rougher one. You'll have a perfect finish on the T'bolt.
Jim
If you are really adept at glassing on your boat, the process is the same on a model, but the glass will be much thinner and more challenging to work.
Before "moneycoat", silkspan was used for covering airplanes, and is great for just what you're planning - it's far easier to apply than glass, much lighter, has less grain to fill, is a whole bunch cheaper, and takes maybe a bit less time.
Silkspan comes in several weights, and you probably want heavier rather than lighter for that size kit.
After cutting an approximate shape, for covering, I spray the silkspan with water or rubbing alcohol (water if humidity is really low, alcohol if it's higher), then lay it flat on a towel while I dope the surface to be covered using clear butyrate dope, maybe thinned 25% with thinner, depending on humidity. I then lay the silkspan down carefully, doping as neccesary from the outside to make it stay.
One additional benefit is that mistakes are easy to fix. Just use a #11 blade and a flexible straightedge to cut out the offending region, pull the damaged silkspan off the model, and redo... I have used this method a half dozen times with great results.
When dry, fill in the grain by spraying with 3 - 4 coats of sandable primer, then alternately sand and prime -progressively starting with 240 down to 600 grit to set up for a real smooth finish, or 320/400 for a bit rougher one. You'll have a perfect finish on the T'bolt.
Jim
