new to RC cars
01-23-2016, 09:48 AM
#126
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From what you're saying, I take it that you charged up the NiMh battery that came with the truck. Then you put it in the truck and ran it. And you're saying that the truck has a lot of torque and power, in which the tires spin and slip a lot on the ground (lose of traction)? This is normal (if that's what you're asking).
Are the tires slipping on the ground? Or is there slippage in the drivetrain between the motor and the tires? If there is slippage between the tires and the ground, that's just normal. You can get better tires for it that offer more traction. When you run the 2S lipo, it will have loads more power and even more lose of traction.
But if you're saying that there is slippage in the truck's drivetrain, then you probably need to tighten up the slipper clutch.
Are the tires slipping on the ground? Or is there slippage in the drivetrain between the motor and the tires? If there is slippage between the tires and the ground, that's just normal. You can get better tires for it that offer more traction. When you run the 2S lipo, it will have loads more power and even more lose of traction.
But if you're saying that there is slippage in the truck's drivetrain, then you probably need to tighten up the slipper clutch.
yea its really powerful on NiMh so i cant wait to see it on Lipo lol
So I was driving in snow for a little bit yesterday and I just checked car and I see like a leak something coming from rear is it bearing? Do I have to replace it Cuz on other side is ok
Last edited by Orim; 01-24-2016 at 07:47 AM.
01-24-2016, 05:40 PM
#127
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Well to see if the drivetrain is slipping, hold the back bumper and restrain the truck from moving. Do this on like smooth pavement or the tile in your kitchen. Then apply the throttle a little and get the tires spinning. Basically do a burnout with it. Now while it's doing a burnout, watch to see if all four of the drive shafts are spinning. I'm sure you can find them, but just in case, I added an arrow to your pic to show the driveshaft that I'm talking about.
All four of the driveshafts should spin. Make sure that all four of the wheels/tires spin as well.
If everything spins as it should without making any high pitched noises, I think it's good enough to bash.
As far as the fluid leak, it's probably some lube that came out of the gearbox through the outdrive. Just wipe it up as best you can (not really necessary, but cleaning it up will keep dirt from collecting there). Most of my trucks will leak grease/lube out of the outdrive if I don't use thick enough grease. I'm 95% sure that the bearing is fine. When you go to do maintenance on the truck, you should regrease the gearboxes because they do lose grease, like in your case here. I service my trucks about three times a year. Some guys who run them a lot do it once a month. Others who don't run theirs much will do it once a year. Being right from the factory though (who knows what quality control was like on the day they built yours), you should probably service it in like a month.
All four of the driveshafts should spin. Make sure that all four of the wheels/tires spin as well.
If everything spins as it should without making any high pitched noises, I think it's good enough to bash.
As far as the fluid leak, it's probably some lube that came out of the gearbox through the outdrive. Just wipe it up as best you can (not really necessary, but cleaning it up will keep dirt from collecting there). Most of my trucks will leak grease/lube out of the outdrive if I don't use thick enough grease. I'm 95% sure that the bearing is fine. When you go to do maintenance on the truck, you should regrease the gearboxes because they do lose grease, like in your case here. I service my trucks about three times a year. Some guys who run them a lot do it once a month. Others who don't run theirs much will do it once a year. Being right from the factory though (who knows what quality control was like on the day they built yours), you should probably service it in like a month.
how do i know if they are slipping in truck`s drivetrain?
yea its really powerful on NiMh so i cant wait to see it on Lipo lol
So I was driving in snow for a little bit yesterday and I just checked car and I see like a leak something coming from rear is it bearing? Do I have to replace it Cuz on other side is ok
yea its really powerful on NiMh so i cant wait to see it on Lipo lol
So I was driving in snow for a little bit yesterday and I just checked car and I see like a leak something coming from rear is it bearing? Do I have to replace it Cuz on other side is ok
01-27-2016, 04:06 AM
#128
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Well to see if the drivetrain is slipping, hold the back bumper and restrain the truck from moving. Do this on like smooth pavement or the tile in your kitchen. Then apply the throttle a little and get the tires spinning. Basically do a burnout with it. Now while it's doing a burnout, watch to see if all four of the drive shafts are spinning. I'm sure you can find them, but just in case, I added an arrow to your pic to show the driveshaft that I'm talking about.
All four of the driveshafts should spin. Make sure that all four of the wheels/tires spin as well.
If everything spins as it should without making any high pitched noises, I think it's good enough to bash.
As far as the fluid leak, it's probably some lube that came out of the gearbox through the outdrive. Just wipe it up as best you can (not really necessary, but cleaning it up will keep dirt from collecting there). Most of my trucks will leak grease/lube out of the outdrive if I don't use thick enough grease. I'm 95% sure that the bearing is fine. When you go to do maintenance on the truck, you should regrease the gearboxes because they do lose grease, like in your case here. I service my trucks about three times a year. Some guys who run them a lot do it once a month. Others who don't run theirs much will do it once a year. Being right from the factory though (who knows what quality control was like on the day they built yours), you should probably service it in like a month.
All four of the driveshafts should spin. Make sure that all four of the wheels/tires spin as well.
If everything spins as it should without making any high pitched noises, I think it's good enough to bash.
As far as the fluid leak, it's probably some lube that came out of the gearbox through the outdrive. Just wipe it up as best you can (not really necessary, but cleaning it up will keep dirt from collecting there). Most of my trucks will leak grease/lube out of the outdrive if I don't use thick enough grease. I'm 95% sure that the bearing is fine. When you go to do maintenance on the truck, you should regrease the gearboxes because they do lose grease, like in your case here. I service my trucks about three times a year. Some guys who run them a lot do it once a month. Others who don't run theirs much will do it once a year. Being right from the factory though (who knows what quality control was like on the day they built yours), you should probably service it in like a month.
i tried truck on the snow do i have to apply any grease? shall i let it dry on the own or should i put next time plastic to cover everything before i go run it on the snow?
01-27-2016, 06:34 AM
#129
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As far as I know, you should be able to run it in the snow without any protectants. I would suggest though that after you run it in the snow, shoot the wheel bearings with some WD-40. I've also found compressed air to be helpful. Like right after you finish running it in the snow and the snow on the truck hasn't melted yet, shoot off the snow with compressed air (using the sprayer gun attachment) before letting it dry. Get's rid of like 90% of the snow and keeps water from getting in and rusting stuff. Make sure you blow off the electronics though, those are most important.
All Traxxas trucks are supposed to be 'waterproof' and I think snow is one of the mildest forms of water, after all, it's a solid. lol I don't think you have too much to worry about when running it, it's when you bring it inside to melt down. Just use the WD-40 where you see bearings and blow the rest off with compressed air, should keep the truck working. Feel free to put a drop of oil on moving parts like driveshaft pins, where the axles go through the bearings, hinge pins, shock ball joints, and on the camber links and tie rods.
Here's a little diagram:
You'll find that there are two links on each of the front suspension arms, one is the camber link and the other is a tie rod for steering. Oil both of those.
The shock ball joints aren't in the picture. Just oil the little ball joint on the bottom of the shock shaft, where it attaches to the suspension arm.
You don't have to oil these parts every run, just do it like once and then run it until you do maintenance in a month.
Did you try out the lipo? lol
All Traxxas trucks are supposed to be 'waterproof' and I think snow is one of the mildest forms of water, after all, it's a solid. lol I don't think you have too much to worry about when running it, it's when you bring it inside to melt down. Just use the WD-40 where you see bearings and blow the rest off with compressed air, should keep the truck working. Feel free to put a drop of oil on moving parts like driveshaft pins, where the axles go through the bearings, hinge pins, shock ball joints, and on the camber links and tie rods.
Here's a little diagram:
You'll find that there are two links on each of the front suspension arms, one is the camber link and the other is a tie rod for steering. Oil both of those.
The shock ball joints aren't in the picture. Just oil the little ball joint on the bottom of the shock shaft, where it attaches to the suspension arm.
You don't have to oil these parts every run, just do it like once and then run it until you do maintenance in a month.
Did you try out the lipo? lol
Last edited by DieHarder; 01-27-2016 at 06:36 AM.
12-26-2016, 10:56 AM
#130
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Hey everyone, My name is David and I'm also new on this website. Unfortunately I didn't not know how to start my own thread and have a question. I had a Tamiya grasshopper when I was a kid and a couple other vehicles and wanted to get back into it. I recently purchased a Blackout XTE brushed and so far I like it, however I broke the chassis on it. As I was replacing it I had a really hard time getting off the lower suspension arms. I pretty much had to break the chassis in order to get them off. Also I was looking for an aluminum chassis but they don't seem to make one compatible with the brushed version. Anyway my question is, has anyone experienced the same problem getting off the lower suspension arms? And do they have aluminum chassis for the brushed XTE? I'd appreciate any input, thanks!
12-26-2016, 01:35 PM
#131
Am I correct in thinking that the inner hinge pins were bent when trying to remove the suspension arms? That's about the only place I can think where one would have a problem getting the arms off.
12-26-2016, 09:24 PM
#133
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Hey RustyUs, thanks for chiming in. The pins actually were not bent, they slid in and were covered by a tiny screw. Once the screw was removed the pin sat flush to the chassis and there was no place to grab it to slide it out. It would make sense if there was some type of lubricant so it could just slide out but that wasn't the case on any of the four. That tool looks awesome by the way lol. Gotta get one!
