Securing Sullivan Gold-N-Rods Outer Sheath
05-04-2002, 09:01 PM
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Securing Sullivan Gold-N-Rods Outer Sheath
How do you secure the outer sheath for pushrods? I have a problem trying to secure the flexible sheath in ARF models that are covered and difficult to access through the fuse. I've tried drilling through the frame with a long bit and usually end up drilling a hole through the side of the fuse. Anyone have any ideas?
05-04-2002, 09:48 PM
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Securing Sullivan Gold-N-Rods Outer Sheath
flyboy2
Somebody out there probably has an easier way, but this is what I have done a couple of times in the past. When you use the long bits, first establish the angle of drilling by marking a reference line on the bottom (or top - which ever is easiest) and sides of the fuse, between the servo arm and control horn. You can use a piece of thread, or simply draw the line on the fuse using a long straight edge and a Vis-A-Vis marker. I prefer the thread method - less cleanup (lazy). This allows you to eyeball fairly accureately the line of the drill. Remove a small section from the bottom of the fuse to access each of the formers(ouch). Then you can install the rod supports to the formers as needed. I use medum CA to secure the outer sheath the the supports and fuse sides. Be sure to rough up the sheath for better adhesion. Kind of a big PIA, but it works great. Hope this helps.
Somebody out there probably has an easier way, but this is what I have done a couple of times in the past. When you use the long bits, first establish the angle of drilling by marking a reference line on the bottom (or top - which ever is easiest) and sides of the fuse, between the servo arm and control horn. You can use a piece of thread, or simply draw the line on the fuse using a long straight edge and a Vis-A-Vis marker. I prefer the thread method - less cleanup (lazy). This allows you to eyeball fairly accureately the line of the drill. Remove a small section from the bottom of the fuse to access each of the formers(ouch). Then you can install the rod supports to the formers as needed. I use medum CA to secure the outer sheath the the supports and fuse sides. Be sure to rough up the sheath for better adhesion. Kind of a big PIA, but it works great. Hope this helps.
05-06-2002, 05:01 AM
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Securing Sullivan Gold-N-Rods Outer Sheath
Good question, great thread!
I've removed the wood dowels in already finished planes. You know the ones with threaded ends glued to the long stick
I measure the fuse (on the outside) where the formers are located. I cut a length of 1/8 ply roughly a 1/4 inch shy of the width that the fuse is. I drill holes usually just 2, one for rudder one for the elevator in the 1/8 ply. I put the outside sheathing through the hole and place a piece of 1/2 inch long silicone fuel line tubeing on either side of the support. I do this for three of the formers. After it is all done I have 2 outside sheaths traveling through 3 pieces of ply sandwiched with the fuel line sitting on the bench. Then I fish (pre-epoxied on an angle) the whole assembly down through the fuse. Once your rod supports are just behind their respected former turn your assembly straight and give it a little pull. I have had good success with this method although the first one I did was tricky to say the least. Hope I explained it properly. :drowning:
I've removed the wood dowels in already finished planes. You know the ones with threaded ends glued to the long stick
I measure the fuse (on the outside) where the formers are located. I cut a length of 1/8 ply roughly a 1/4 inch shy of the width that the fuse is. I drill holes usually just 2, one for rudder one for the elevator in the 1/8 ply. I put the outside sheathing through the hole and place a piece of 1/2 inch long silicone fuel line tubeing on either side of the support. I do this for three of the formers. After it is all done I have 2 outside sheaths traveling through 3 pieces of ply sandwiched with the fuel line sitting on the bench. Then I fish (pre-epoxied on an angle) the whole assembly down through the fuse. Once your rod supports are just behind their respected former turn your assembly straight and give it a little pull. I have had good success with this method although the first one I did was tricky to say the least. Hope I explained it properly. :drowning:
