Hpi g3.0
12-03-2020, 11:43 AM
#1
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Hpi g3.0
Hpi g3.0
my motor wont go full throttle it does
Plus it won't idle with the feul line to gas tank from exhaust is connected
what could be the problem gas tank or
the settings on carb
my motor wont go full throttle it does
Plus it won't idle with the feul line to gas tank from exhaust is connected
what could be the problem gas tank or
the settings on carb
12-04-2020, 08:03 AM
#3
most important question is how long is on the engine? is this a brand new, not broken in engine? or a well broken in engine?
if brand new, follow manufacturer specs for break in or look up the "Adam Drake break in method" on youtube.
if its well broken in carb will need adjusted. ONLY ADJUST ONE NEEDLE AT A TIME in small increments. (confirm that Idle gap is <1mm typically .5-.7mm)
agree with above, needle settings on carb. when it dies, is it under initial acceleration? does it sound kind of blubbery, hardly revs then dies, and spit a bunch of smoke? (this would indicate a too rich setting, most likely on the HSN, but possibly on the LSN as well
or does it start revving up but starts "cutting out" once you get into the throttle? almost like it tops out and wont go any further?
if brand new, follow manufacturer specs for break in or look up the "Adam Drake break in method" on youtube.
if its well broken in carb will need adjusted. ONLY ADJUST ONE NEEDLE AT A TIME in small increments. (confirm that Idle gap is <1mm typically .5-.7mm)
agree with above, needle settings on carb. when it dies, is it under initial acceleration? does it sound kind of blubbery, hardly revs then dies, and spit a bunch of smoke? (this would indicate a too rich setting, most likely on the HSN, but possibly on the LSN as well
or does it start revving up but starts "cutting out" once you get into the throttle? almost like it tops out and wont go any further?
12-05-2020, 06:00 AM
#4
The engine is assumed to be used but in suitable mechanical condition in my post. I don’t put much effort into those responses because the OPs rarely come back.
If that isn’t the case here, so be it. If the engine is low time, Drake’s method will probably work because of it being a cheap RTR engine. I don’t care what Drake, Tessman, or any of those racer lunatics say about glow engine break-in, operation, or tuning. Those guys are sponsored drivers that don’t care about their engines - at least not in the way true engine men do. Never idle a new glow engine for longer than necessary. There is not enough lubrication and heat to properly seat the conrod bushings which is the only thing that needs to be broken in. Everything else in the engine needs minimal runtime to seat properly.
Preheating new engines is good practice.
Start the engine and warm it up quickly. If the engine quits with throttle input, note the sound it makes when it quits. Abrupt quitting is due to being lean. Open both needles 1/2 turn.
Always start rich and work leaner. Once the engine is run over advanced (too lean/hot), it must be shut down and cooled before re-setting the carb settings. You will never get a good setting once it’s run over advanced without cooling it off.
One tank of fuel is usually suitable for getting the engine heat soaked well so it will tune reliably. The engine must be heatsoaked to take a setting and hold it. If your engine will not hold a setting, it was set too early and not heatsoaked.
Never idle new engines to break them in. This will shorten its life and will hinder its power output. The first 2 minutes of an engines life is critical and sets the tone for its lifespan and power capability.
Now that my usual break-in debunking speech is over, the OP needs to set the carb richer by 1/2 turn and re-tune the engine after getting it heatsoaked. If the engine is new, get it warm and drive it. As long as the needle setting is rich enough to run correctly and within a reasonable temp range, drive it. Have a spare medium heat glow plug and good fuel with 10-12% oil.
I have a decent video I’ll post as soon as I’m able to find it.
If that isn’t the case here, so be it. If the engine is low time, Drake’s method will probably work because of it being a cheap RTR engine. I don’t care what Drake, Tessman, or any of those racer lunatics say about glow engine break-in, operation, or tuning. Those guys are sponsored drivers that don’t care about their engines - at least not in the way true engine men do. Never idle a new glow engine for longer than necessary. There is not enough lubrication and heat to properly seat the conrod bushings which is the only thing that needs to be broken in. Everything else in the engine needs minimal runtime to seat properly.
Preheating new engines is good practice.
Start the engine and warm it up quickly. If the engine quits with throttle input, note the sound it makes when it quits. Abrupt quitting is due to being lean. Open both needles 1/2 turn.
Always start rich and work leaner. Once the engine is run over advanced (too lean/hot), it must be shut down and cooled before re-setting the carb settings. You will never get a good setting once it’s run over advanced without cooling it off.
One tank of fuel is usually suitable for getting the engine heat soaked well so it will tune reliably. The engine must be heatsoaked to take a setting and hold it. If your engine will not hold a setting, it was set too early and not heatsoaked.
Never idle new engines to break them in. This will shorten its life and will hinder its power output. The first 2 minutes of an engines life is critical and sets the tone for its lifespan and power capability.
Now that my usual break-in debunking speech is over, the OP needs to set the carb richer by 1/2 turn and re-tune the engine after getting it heatsoaked. If the engine is new, get it warm and drive it. As long as the needle setting is rich enough to run correctly and within a reasonable temp range, drive it. Have a spare medium heat glow plug and good fuel with 10-12% oil.
I have a decent video I’ll post as soon as I’m able to find it.
