Picco 26 Max....the DARK SIDE....
#1176
You would have to keep your eyes on eBay. That seems to be the go-to place to sell old stock parts for older engines. Picco doesn't make that engine anymore though you could try emailing Picco direct and see if they have any parts for it possibly.
As for converting from bump bump start to pull start - you would need a pull start crank, pullstart backplate, one-way clutch bearing, one-way starter shaft, and a pull starter. Or replace "pull starter" with "electric starter if you prefer. If you can actually find the parts to convert it (if it was ever made in a pullstart version), you will lose some power because the pullstart crank isn't timed as well as the bump start version. Personally, if you don't have the engine already, find a different one that won't require as much stuff to make it work the way you want.
As for converting from bump bump start to pull start - you would need a pull start crank, pullstart backplate, one-way clutch bearing, one-way starter shaft, and a pull starter. Or replace "pull starter" with "electric starter if you prefer. If you can actually find the parts to convert it (if it was ever made in a pullstart version), you will lose some power because the pullstart crank isn't timed as well as the bump start version. Personally, if you don't have the engine already, find a different one that won't require as much stuff to make it work the way you want.
#1177
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Does anybody know about this engine? I'm having problems finding parts for it. But I like that fine is an exploded view of the parts and what can I get to make it to where it's a pull start or a electric start. I don't like the bump box idea. Any information you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
#1178
Junior Member
Where
put the block in the oven at 240 degrees for about 20 min. and the bearings should come out. might have to tap them out with a wood dowel and a hammer. heat it up again, and the new bearings should slide right in. hey dank, i have a merlin glow plug in mine, and it hasn't let me down for almost a gallon. met the guy who makes them at an rc show in toledo, and he stands behind his plug with pride. the picco fire's up everytime. plus they are decent in price.
#1179
Alden Kelly passed away a few years ago, and as such, so did Merlin plugs. I don’t believe the family continued his business. It’s too bad, because his glow plugs were phenomenal. You can watch eBay and the classifieds here or on the other big RC forum as they do come up for sale once in awhile. Good alternatives are glow plugs sold by Dub Jett at DubJett.com.
#1180
Junior Member
How is it
How many of y'all have gone over to the "Dark Side, " with that Black and Blue, Ofna Picco 26 Max ????????????????????????????????????????????
I'll start.....I'm there, and I'm already saving for another.....
Tricks I've found that work great, and keep the grin factor at Max level in a REVO....
16/38 gearing
M/S filter on OEM REVO snorkle
Shorten theexhaust header5'16", or the length of the "bell"
Open the muffler outlet to 7/32"
Seal the carb to the crankase with "copper" RTV
HEAT CYCLE your first fuel tank....shut off every time the engine reaches 240-250F, Do NOT idle the 1st tank, run at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, watch temps, and heat cycle! Do the second tank the same way.....then 3rd-5th normal break-in. These engines are tight and will generate heat, even rich....watch those temps on the first 2 tanks.
During heat cycle, rotate the piston to bdc during cool down, do not restart until temp is beow 110F.
This is what I've found works good....it is NOT gospel, and as another bit of info, I'm at about 250' asl. If you've got a different combo, other observations or ideas on break-in, POST em! But let's keep this thread about the Dark Side, let's complile some working data on the Picco 26 Max HERE.
I'll start.....I'm there, and I'm already saving for another.....
Tricks I've found that work great, and keep the grin factor at Max level in a REVO....
16/38 gearing
M/S filter on OEM REVO snorkle
Shorten theexhaust header5'16", or the length of the "bell"
Open the muffler outlet to 7/32"
Seal the carb to the crankase with "copper" RTV
HEAT CYCLE your first fuel tank....shut off every time the engine reaches 240-250F, Do NOT idle the 1st tank, run at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, watch temps, and heat cycle! Do the second tank the same way.....then 3rd-5th normal break-in. These engines are tight and will generate heat, even rich....watch those temps on the first 2 tanks.
During heat cycle, rotate the piston to bdc during cool down, do not restart until temp is beow 110F.
This is what I've found works good....it is NOT gospel, and as another bit of info, I'm at about 250' asl. If you've got a different combo, other observations or ideas on break-in, POST em! But let's keep this thread about the Dark Side, let's complile some working data on the Picco 26 Max HERE.
#1181
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Ofna/picco .26 max
I am a recent addition to the dark side. 6 months ago or so, but not too Nitro. I've had it 2.5 T-Maxx for almost 20 years. There is not much along the lines of RC where I am in Lexington ky, only one hobby shop that even sells RC parts that I know of, and they don't have anything for Nitro they tried to talk me into going battery. ***??? lol..... I was lucky enough to find someone on eBay last year while I was looking for aluminum Towers for my T-Max classic, and he introduced me to Big Block. Send me a link for a Ofna .28 that he said was a direct replacement, at the time I didn't know what a Max engine was. I purchased it and when I got it it wouldn't fit my TMax as it was just a regular big block.28. He felt so bad about tell me to buy that engine and it not work that he sold me his picco .26 Max (black/blue version). As soon as I installed it and ran it the first time I was hooked. Less than a year later I now have four original .26 Max, one JL Red Dot 26 Max, one new in box jl.28 Max, and two Ofna/force 28 Max new in box. I've installed one of the force.28 and ran it and it is a monster. I had to shim the head, the Piston was hitting the bottom of the button, ever so slightly during break in and kept killing the plugs. Once it broke in and loosened up, it was hitting so hard I could feel it while cranking. He would kill the plug before starting the engine. I shimmed it to a 6 chamber, as I'm running 25% Nitro. (V.P.racing fuel). I have found the people that bought the old Ofna equipment and machines are reproducing the 28 Max in Taiwan. You cannot buy directly from them , but I have found a source out of Germany that gets engines from them and retails them . They haven't got the science down perfect yet but they are getting there. Shimming the head is the only problem I have found that they have. The crankshafts and then look like the JL Red Dot crankshaft without the red resin. They look like they are modified straight from the factory. I think they are close to three HP. I have had to bulletproof my Driveline, now I'm just waiting on my tungsten primary and output transmission shafts. Anyone out there knows someone that can drill grade five tungsten, lmk?