Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

*Born Again Maxxer, I have a structurally-blinged out 2.5 maxx that's been shelved for 15+ years, UE towers, Ti skids, one UE bulk, the other is also metal/nice, MIP CVDs, 3.3 engine upgrade, etc. I was rebuilding the trans, which went poorly (one of the main reasons it got put aside for so long!), so I ordered a new 2.5 transmission, but as time went by, I forgot I did that, so in my head, I didn't have a new/unused one, I had one that needed rebuilding

I've just jumped back in almost as impulsively as I did back in 2005-6; did a good amount of research before ordering parts, including a new 3.3 forward-only transmission, which sounded great; instead of having to finish that rebuild of my ancient 2.5 tranny AND buy/install a FOC kit in the process, I'd have everything I need, all built, for $60! What a deal...until I then saw I HAD a new/perfect2.5 transmission & saw problems ahead when I really looked at the 3.3 tranny I got on Friday...

TRANSMISSION...I now have TWO new ones, but need to turn them into ONE that works...

1. the output shaft on 3.3 tranny is larger than 2.5, so MIPs wont fit. First idea I have is to bore out the MIP's female end to 6mm with a carbide drill bit/drill press. I'm guessing they're heardened, but do you think this will work? Otherwise, does MIP sell new drive-joints (not "cups", right?) with 6mm holes that WON'T change the overall length? I don't want to buy new cvds...they're super $$ on the used marked
2. If that's all 2 much of a hassle, can I open up both trannies & take the output shaft/gear from the 2.5 and just drop it in the 3.3, eazy-peazy? And/or, can I take any of the gears out of the 3.3 and move them to the 2.5 in a way that converts it to forward-only without having to buy any $$ parts? I'd rather use the grey 3.3 tranny, as I just installed a FullForce threaded-inserts into the mounting holes, but I'd be OK taking parts from the 3.3 and using the 2.5, if I can do it without spending another $50-100 on an FOC kit.

BRAKE. I want to use mechanical braking, not motor-braking, as I want to keep the 2-speed...

1. the brake calipers are spaced a little wider on the 3.3, maybe 2mm., so my brake plates/shoes won't fit; I have an original RRP brake setup It has the single-post aluminum brake-post, and I think my old one fits fine, it's just the shoes & backing plates that don't fit. Seems odd that they changed the 'spread' by such a small amount, as I THINK my old disc will be good even if I get bigger shoes, but I'm OK getting a new brake kit if needed. which one is best/toughest for brushless conversions?

Parts that have arrived/arriving within days are a HobbyWing Max8 combo (with the 4268 motor), RRP one piece 58t hardened spur gear/slipper for T-Maxx, hardened pinions. I'm still figuring out where to put the battery, and will then buy the mount to work in that spot, or rig up my own out of some G10 fiberglass stock I have.

That prompts another question, I plan on using 2 or maybe 3 cells for casual use, when I want to go at it hard, do I want to run ONE, 4 cell battery, or two, 2-cell ones? the HW Max8 ESC arrived set up for 2 batteries. I kinda like the idea buying a bunch of 2-cell packs and combining them, but I dunno the pros & cons when compared to single 4-cell setup.
Thanks in advance for your help & advice!
Dean