Hydro Junkie

And, once again, I'm on hold. I had planned on working on the Elam when I got to work today, didn't happen. The plan was to epoxy on the glue blocks I had cut yesterday, along with a few more that I was going to cut today. That got put on hold real quick when I started looking at where the lower nontrip glue blocks would be located on the sponson transoms. My glue blocks are .25" triangle stock, cut by the manufacturer at 90 degrees on one corner with the other two at 45s. The issue is that, something I hadn't noticed previously, the layout lines I drew when I made the transoms are drawn at 38 degrees, as shown on the plans. That means I need to stop at the Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum on my way to work tomorrow and check the angle on the full sized boat. Since my glue blocks are almost 10 degrees different than the angle drawn on the transom, I will need to adjust one side of the glue blocks that are attached at the bottom of the sponson insides so that the glue blocks will all line up properly. This will also make it so the nontrip lower skins will fit correctly instead of having gaps between the blocks and skins.
While I'm taking measurements, I probably should also check the angle of the inner sponson bottom panel so I can get the sponson frames all sanded to the correct angles so they will be ready to epoxy the skin panels to

Hydro Junkie

Mission accomplished. Stopped at the Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum on my way to work and measured the angles and lengths I mentioned in my last post. What I found is that the plans and I were both wrong:
I was thinking the nontrip lower panel was at 45 degrees NOPE!!!! That angle is correct for the Pak and several similar Ron Jones hulls, but not this one
The plans showed the angle to be 38 degrees NOPE!!!! Not sure where that came from unless it was from the T-2 or T-3 Budweiser or one of Fred Leland's turbines as they were all very simular to the Elam
The actual angle is a much lower 30 degrees YIKES!!!!
So, now the question is do I rework the glue blocks to the correct 30 degrees or the incorrect 38 degrees? I know leaving them at the present 45 degrees won't work at all

Hydro Junkie

Been thinking about it since I got to work and have figured out what's going to happen. I a nutshell, I'll go with the scale option and trim the blocks to the correct 30 degree face angle. This means it's time to break out another tool, a hobby sized table saw:
https://micromark.com/cdn/shop/files...3244&width=610
Since the blade can be tipped up to 45 degrees, I'll tip it to 30 degrees and shave the glue blocks down as needed. Shouldn't be an issue with the appropriate tool

Hydro Junkie

Here's the picture I said I'd post. You can see how much off the original layout is when compared to the correct angle