Jesse Open

Good tip thanks for the reminder.
I’m in the habit of buying the longer inserts.
Having several uses, and since they are very easy to trim; I just keep the longer version on hand and trim as needed.
The local machine supply here has that one on the shelf.
1/4-32 threads are used often on various instruments.

Glowgeek

Timeserts lock in by swaging the bottom 2 threads outward with the special set tool. If the bottom is trimmed off they will no longer lock in place. Can be epoxied in though......I use JBweld to add retension insurance, in addition to the swaging on these tiny Timeserts.

Jesse Open

Yes, I am familiar. We used them by the boxful.
The trimmed end is simple (for us) to re-shape.

Once installed they stay put and do not leak.
BTW, the eBay link was picked at random, mostly to show the street price. For the sake of helping the OP to choose between repair and replacement costs.

Again, thanks for pointing out that his application requires a different kit number.

Glowgeek

Yes, that's the kit and inserts I've been using. Curious how you "reshape" the swaging area at the bottom of the insert once trimmed off, as the swaging dimensions are undercut......internally.

Jesse Open

Yes Lonnie, that is as supplied.And it works .
As is often the case, there are other methods available, actually better methods in some cases.
Make a slight chamfer from the inside of the tapped hole. Counterbore a thin lip at the inner tip of the insert. Install otherwise normally using the Loctite sealant. Roll the thin lip into the chamfer. Comes out nicely every time and makes for a fine, measured fit.
We often have to do adapt for custom fitting as needed.
Part of the trade.

Do you use wheel collars with setscrews to keep your wheels in place?

Glowgeek

Depends on whether or not I need more nose weight, Why do you ask?

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

you know guys, I use the wheels and axels that are threaded, that way, when landing, the wheels unscrew a bit and lock up for braking.

Jesse Open

LH threads on RH axle and RH threads on LH axle? Sounds about right
“E” type circlips and Cotter Pins are a couple of favorites here. Cheap and they stay in place well

Glowgeek

Gary, had I adopted either one of those wheel mounting methods on a pre-built P-47 ARF I bought from a fellow flyer, I wouldn't have had to belly land it on the maiden flight. He was very light handed while tightening the wheel collars. Lost a wheel seconds after lowering the gear. My bad, I should have checked all the hardware.

1200SportsterRider

MacGregor's still has this Saito 30s in stock, but at the conversion rate today, 299.95 BP equals $388.77 USD, I just can't do it.

I wish

1200SportsterRider

My home made grill looks more like this one.
A while back I showed this image of the grill I made for the Spadport, I got the idea from this British SE5. The grill hides an FA 40a.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I love it!

erieqc

Here you go
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...Four-Cycle-NIB

Jesse Open

Good tip!
Just got back from looking up an ad I placed , sold this one a few months ago.
That plane is looking sweet and your grill is a nice detail. Going to be getting a skin soon from what I hear. Looks like you have a lot to get done this winter
Sorry Dave, I didn’t realize you were looking for an FA-30. From now on I will mention here before listing a sale in the classifieds.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Two things to cover here.

First is I wanted to ask if the 130 twin is a boxer. I downloaded the manual and it included several engine breakdowns that include boxer and more conventional single pin versions, but the 130 twin carb is not mentioned.

Second and I am sure I brought up somewhere in the past, is I was first introduced to Timeserts in the mid 90s as a repair method to many auto engines with alloy heads and came to much prefer them over Helicoils for many reasons. My biggest consideration for our type of repair is the initial kit cost. Unless having to do a few of these or unless someone else would lend the kit for the cost of insert replacement the economics are a bit difficult to bear.

And to be honest, in 4 decades of engine repair have only encountered 1 Saito with a damaged plug hole.

Jesse Open

The 130 is a single throw odd fire.
Good power, great sound, simple to service.

The fact that helical wire inserts lose about 1/2 thread at each end for secure installation makes Them a bit tricky for many of the thin four stroke plug installations. The Timeserts are pretty easy for their basic use in this case.Also handy to have on hand as Timeserts are easily adapted to a variety of applications.

1200SportsterRider

Cougar, having rebuilt a 130t and flown it on a Goldberg Tiger 120 I can vouch that they are very smooth. I caught heck from a few for prettying it up a bit but I figured that if the 100t could have black cylinders so could my 130.


PS, I eliminated the scavenging pump since the later models didn't have it.

Glowgeek

That FA-130 turned out beautiful, Dave. The grill on the Bipe too.

1200SportsterRider

Thanks Lonnie I need to fuel proof the covering on the Minuette, what should I use, it's Diacov 1000. Sig has the most popular and available fuel proofing.

https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product...raft-covering/

Glowgeek

When Klasskote got difficult to find a lot of folks began using Minwax oil based Polyurethane with excellent results up to 15% nitro. It is sold in rattle cans if you don't have a spray rig. Buterate dope for higher nitro content fuel. I treat firewalls with acetone thinned epoxy.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I also treat firewalls with acetone thinned epoxy and I add a little paint pigment to color it. most of the time if the firewall is hidden I use black. Sometimes I'll shoot it with Rust-oleum spray paint and then coat it with clear with acetone thinned epoxy.