bowlman

yep it does may be latter he will add the M48A3 back end like he did the turret for the M60A3 .

bowlman

TAM

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/tam-rc_3d_tanks
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanque_Argentino_Mediano


Thanks
jimmy

Richie.FL

Every time I look there I wish I had a 3d printer.

bowlman

M3 Grant / Lee

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/m3-grant-lee

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M3_Lee
Thanks
Jimmy

herrmill

Get a Bambu X1C & you'll never look back. I gave up my Ender Pro 3 & now have both a Bambu P1S & X1C.

Another new option to consider is the new Qidi Plus4 that was just released. Looks very good.

herrmill

Not 1/16 but can be scaled down. Just started on the hull yesterday & doing test prints of the Flak 38

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/steyr-rso-01

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...i-aircraft-gun

tankme

My Bambu X1C is constantly printing tanks or tank parts... It's busy printing a Russian T-35A at the moment.

Richie.FL

Say I'm on a budget of $200 or less, what do you suggest?

bowlman

I went the other way got a K1 Max last spring I like it a lot the build volume is nice at 300x300 now just got to figure out what to do with my older printers .
Thanks
Jimmy

bowlman

MBT-70

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mbt-70
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MBT-70
Thanks
Jimmy

Durahl

You get what you pay for and with 200.- you get **** that will drive you up the wall and away from 3D Printing in no time so I'd suggest you save up until your budget is that of a Bambu Labs 3D Printer that seems to have stood the test of time.
Practically everyone who owned EITHER a Prusa but in particular ANY of its ten thousand Ender / Creality Clones SWEARS by the quality of a Bambu Lab - Sure, you can still end up with a 🍋 but that can be send back for a replacement unlike your sanity after two dozen failed Prints.
I for one have gone with an entirely different route that of D.I.Y. which ain't for everyone and with a budget of 200.- definitely not for you.

tankme

The Bambu A1 and A1 mini aren't bad choices, but they will be slightly more than $200. They are small, but 3D printing is a hobby all in itself with it's own learning curve. Some don't like it for that aspect. They just want to print accessories while people like me print whole tanks up to 1/6th scale on my Bambu X1C.

Durahl

The A1 without the AMS can supposedly be had for less than 300.- and the Combo with the AMS for a bit more than 400.-
IMHO I find it a no brainer to go with the Combo as it opens up so many possibilities not only for Inlay Work but also the ability to print Parts with easier to remove Supports.
Also the build volume of 256mm³ one can print a lot... I've back then printed my huge ass Dining Lamp on a comparably sized - but slow as molasses - Prusa i3 MK3S.

tankme

I would agree with the AMS even if you don't do multicolor work. I like it simply because I load the same material in multiple slots and let it autoswitch when a roll runs out. I don't sell my prints so slight differences in finish or color don't matter to me as I paint pretty much all my 3D prints.

Richie.FL

I looked at it a bit more and I could go a bit over budget to get it, but I am wondering what I should know about those 3d printers before I get one, I fear that research alone will not get accurate results on the printers performance.

Durahl

This is which just so happens to be taking a Bambu Labs A1 ( with an optionally attached AMS Lite ) as an Example.
IMHO - To get the most out of a 3D Printer you'd want to familiarize yourself with a CAD ( or 3D Modelling ) Program of your choice as pretty much only with that will you be able to make your own model that will EXACTLY meet your needs.

To clarify - A CAD Program is used to make the 3D Model which then gets imported into the Slicer which translates the 3D Model into something akin of an MRI for the 3D Printer.
While a Slicer can have some very rudimentary 3D Modelling capabilities ( literally just placing shapes and changing their sizes ) I'd highly suggest not putting your bets on those to solve most if any of your needs.

My personal suggestion for one such CAD Model would be Autodesk Fusion ( formerly known as Fusion 360 or in short F360 ) as it is a highly intuitively to use Program which - with limitations - can still be used for free.
What I absolutely recommend to stay away from as far as possible would be FreeCAD and OpenSCAD - In terms of a User Experience they're about the worst Programs I've ever seen ( and dabbled in ).
I'd also stay away from CAD Software aimed at Kids like TinkerCAD ( also made by Autodesk ) as the way how it does "CAD" isn't really how CAD is done essentially crippling your potential.

Now as for the biggest 3D Printer specific things to learn about is that not every Material can be printed on every 3D Printer...
PLA you should be able to do on pretty much any 3D Printer including the bottom of the barrel ones. ABS and the likes you'll generally want to do on 3D Printers that have an Enclosure as these materials have a tendency to warp if a breeze of cold / fresh air moves over them. Some materials will also only work best with certain types of Beds to be printed on while others are to be avoided with them ( essentially fusing with the bed destroying it ). Those are things you'll have to study up on ( or pay the price of acquired knowledge ;D ).
I for one only print in ASA ( the lesser A-Hole Cousin of ABS ) as it is a material that is still reasonably easy to work with ( in an enclosed 3D Printer ) and one which is pretty much unaffected by potential outdoor use ( ABS degrades in UV-Light ).

ASA was also the Material I've predominantly used ( besides some Resin 3D Prints and metal cast Parts ) in the build of my self designed, 3D printed, assembled, painted, weathered, etc... E-100:

ASA is also quite nice as the welds from using a suitable glue are pretty much that - Welds as in practically turning two pieces into akin to Scale Model Plastics unlike PLA whose glue Joints have never really impressed me.

bowlman

M142 HIMARS

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/m142-himars-rc_3d_tanks

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M142_HIMARS

https://rc3dtanks.site/detail.html#himars

WPL 6x6 set is required. It is the base of whole model
(I do recommend to use 2 long leaf springs per side. 8 springs total)

UsedHeng Long TK-7.1.
supported:
- fully functional suspension
- elevation and steering: 995 servos
- rotation: SG90 as regular motor (360°)
- two different sets of missiles (smaller x6 M26 or large x1 ATACMS)
Some numbers:
scale: 1/16
width: 140mm
length: 430mm
height: 165mm
weight: 2,000 g
required printer area: 220x220

Thanks
Jimmy

bowlman

AMX-30B

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/amx-30b

https://rc3dtanks.site/detail.html#amx30
Thanks
Jimmy

Richie.FL

Durahl
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU, I know I've seemed a bit on edge on getting a 3d printer (and thus maybe a bit rude) but this info helps a lot! to be honest I've been looking on getting into 3d printing since the summer of 2022 when a friend of a friend showed me his 3d printer and let me print my first well print being a little articulated lobster. I wish now looking back that I'd had done some more heavy duty research into 3d printing as a whole, but as someone said the best time is now.

Again I have to say thank you so much and I hope I can ask more questions if I have any.
- Richie FL

RichJohnson

Have any of you guys actually completed any of these 3d tanks and made them run and work reliably?

tankme

I've got my Matilda II running. It's just not painted yet. I have a bunch more in the works. My Kranvagn is in paint so it's disassembled for paint right now. I just finished printing the M48 so the tracks I bought from you are going on it. I'm putting the TongDE sprockets on it.