Mpilot

I need help with covering suggestions! I hate iron on coverings. I have tried all brands and don't get the results I want. I'm a good builder, my planes look great when they are sanded and ready to cover. I have never used any type of cloth covering system. I have no problem with sanding and painting. I don't know what cloth and dope or resin to use and the proper way to do it light and strong. I have a HVLP spray system for paint. All my flying is done with glow fuel. I have looked all over the net the past few weeks and have found nothing in detail on the subject. I hope someone can tell me how to do this and what to use, or point me to the information.

Thanks for reading.

Doug D.

Coverites Super Shrink iron fabric goes on fairly easy and is paintable like most types of silk, silkspan, tissue and glass cloth.
You might want to get this three books by Harry Higley.
Master Modeling, There Are No Secrets and Tom's Techniques
A lot of finish options are covered in these books. Most of these are old tried and true methods that have been discussed else where on most of these forums.
Look around a bit. Then we can get a little more specific about what your looking for. [&:]

Patriot

Well, here we go. Seems like we've had this same discussion countless times here on RCU. But it is one we never seem to get tired of. Especially when it brings builders who use the plastic film coverings into something "better".
Ok, so here goes...

1. If you really like using iron on covering, which you say you don't, there is one that isn't too bad, it has the look of fabric, which is what I am guessing you are looking for, then there is a really good product out there which all of the scale builders rave about. It's called Solartex. I personally have never used Solartex. I started off like most builders nowadays by using monokote, and then when I started building nicer more scale like planes, I went straight to fabric. However, if you like using an iron on covering, then I would have to say by word of mouth, that Solartex is probably one of the best out there. You use it pretty much like any other iron on covering, but it has a fabric like texture and can be painted with just about anything that will withstand the nitro in your fuel.

2. Then there's Silk. I have used silk before, and have to say it takes quite a bit of practice. But, for those true scale-like traditionalist builders, it is the only way to go. However, it is getting very expensive to use.

3. Then, there's my personal favorite. Koverall. Sig has been making this stuff for... well, forever. And it is a polyester fabric that is very light weight. About 1.25oz/yd. It is sort of a compromise to silk. It is synthetic, so it is much less expensive than silk. Actually it is one of the most affordable out there. I really like Koverall because it is applied just like silk. Here is a basic application process so you can get an idea of how it is used and turns out.
a. First you apply two coats of Nitrate dope to your balsa model framework all over where the koverall will be in contact with the wood, sanding lightly between each coat. (thin it anywhere from 2:1 to 1:1 ratio of thinner)
b. Once doped with nitrate, then cut out the fabric to cover the entire area with about an inch of overlap for good measure. Then place the Koverall over the wood and paint a thin line of Nitrate around the edges so it soaks through and softens the nitrate underneath so it will tack the cloth down to the surface around the edges. Pull it gently smooth so you have no wrinkles. You can even use some small pins around the overlapped edges to hold it in place until dry. Wait until completely dry.
c. This is the nice step. Unlike silk, which requires Butyrate dope to shrink, Koverall does not. Shrink the Koverall over the undoped areas with an iron. Shrink it only as needed, as not to shrink too much to warp the structure, or not enough, thus leaving sags in the open bays.
d. Then you can use the Nitrate dope again to begin applying the sealing coats. Generally two good coats of Nitrate will seal the fabric, but three may be needed, sanding lightly between each coat. When dry, trim off the excess around the edges just like you used to do with monokote, then sand edges smooth.
c. Now you are ready to apply your finish.
1.If you want a fabric textured finish, then you can use colored dope to paint on your design, or you can spray it if desired. If you choose enamel finish with HVLP auto paint or something like Rustoleum, which I use quite a bit because of all the colors it comes in, then lightly prime and paint as you see fit. Butyrate is fuel proof, and is nice in the fact that it is glossy and usually does not require a clear coat finish.
2. If you want a glass-like finish with no fabric texture, then add another one or two coats of Nitrate dope mixed with some talcum powder to fill in the texture. Also what is very cheap to use is primer filler in spray cans. It fills the weave completely, and when sanded gives a perfectly smooth surface. Then you can apply your enamel finish over it.
3.To finish it off, you can apply a coat or two of two-part automotive clear coat with a flex additive to seal the entire plane. This is really a good idea if using rustoleum, which is pretty fuel proof but not infallible. If you used some other kind of finish like latex paints for a camo finish etc, then a clear coat enamel is necessary to prevent from turning your nice paint job into a gooey mess. Clear coats can be gotten in satin or flat for camo finishes.

I have to say, of the several coverings I have used, thus far I prefer Koverall the most. Mainly because it gives such a nice finish when done right, and it is so versatile in the type of finish you want to apply.
Also, unlike every other iron on covering on the market, Koverall can be doped around the edges to the point where you can gently sand and completely cover all of your seams. It is so neat to see an entire plane covered with a shiny finish and absolutely no visible seams anywhere on the plane. It looks very professional, and has all the guys who have never used it, wondering how you got all that monokote on without any seams. Although a good fabric finish can never be confused with monokote.

Oh, one last thing about Koverall compared to monokote. If you puncture monokote it will tear very easily, like a plastic candy wrapper right? Not Koverall. Koverall is a fabric weave, and it is extremely tough. Way stronger than monokote. Don't believe me? If you get the chance, get ahold of a piece of plain unfinished Koverall, and try to tear it.

I hope all this helps, my fingers are getting tired of typing.


Patriot

Mpilot

Thank you Patriot
Sounds like Sig Koverall is the way for me! I appreciate the time you took to type your reply. I have three planes on the building schedule Smith Miniplane, Spacewalker, Gee Bee R2. all from plans. I will be posting the progress on RCU.

Thanks Again Patriot

Patriot

Interesting you should mention the Smith miniplane. That was the first airplane (RC) I ever built. Bummed me out when I went to the field, then had to go home and build a trainer to learn how to fly. That was in 1985.

I have to say I find it amazing how so many guys start off with iron on plastic film, then get into nicer coverings, and fabric later on as quality becomes an issue. Plastic films are a great way to cover a plane quickly, easily, and provide a halfway decent finish for most sport planes. But nothing beats the quality, professional look and beauty of a real fabric finish. There are other fabric finishes out there, but I have found koverall to be the most all around versatile that can be used for just about every model out there.

By the way, I actually typed up this same response for another gent just like you who was tired of cheap plastic film and wanted something more realistic. I think I have converted about 10 guys now with the same desire for something better. I think I am on to something. Maybe I should pool all the info I can find on Koverall, and make a little instruction manual that everyone here can download for free, and covers the whole spectrum of Koverall use.

Patriot

P.S. There is another covering that is really nice. it's called S T I T S, but it is VERY expensive.

Mpilot

Patriot
Was your Miniplans a Sig kit? I'm building from the sig plans. I like to build from plans I know it can cost a little more but I can make changes from the start. I will be installing a Satio 65 in her with smoke HOORAAH.
My first plane was CG Eaglet 50 and then a Sig King Kobra also in 1985. I flew that King Kobra for 8 years a few mods hear and there. I got out of the flying till this past fall and built the Sig Kobra with an OS 32 sx with some mods fo corse. She is quick, scared the pants off of me LOL. It is great to be back!

famousdave

My Feedback: (61)

Many people struggle with covering. I use Monokote, Ultracote, and Coverite. I usually attain flawless covering quality. I have built r/c and static display planes that have won awards.

Covering is not rocket science. Everyone can do it but it takes patience and practice. Most people try to cover too much area at once. They also fail to use the most important tool to their advantage - the heat gun.

I can cover and entire wing, tips and all in less than 1 hour, no matter what the size, and when its done, most people will say its the best job they have ever seen. My secret - I roll out the covering, cut it to size, edge tack one side while stretching the opposite side taught. I then tack the opposite side down. I then Rotate 90 * and tack the other sides until the whole structure is encased in covering, kind of like a "seal-a-meal" bag. I then shrink the *hit out of the covering until it is very tight. On a large job will use a heat lamp, but for the most part - the gun is fine. After the covering is drum tight and all wrinkles are out (you would be surprised at just how much heat you can use!), I use the iron to seal it to the structure. I flip the wing over and do the other side. After everything is complete, I check washout and straightness and use the heat gun again to correct any warp. I seldom experience any structure warp using this method however.

Curved fusleages and other surfaces are not a big deal either. Work with small pieces and overlap them 1/8". The eye will never see the seams. I completely covered a GP F-4 Phantom with covering. Most people fill the bare wood and paint (much heavier) due to all the complex curves. Yes, it was tough, and yes it took a long time, but it can be done.

Bottom line, look over someone's shoulders who really knows how to do it. Once you see how easy it is, you will never fear covering your own plane again.

My latest projects have been taking ARFs and their "me too" ugly covering schemes and re-covering them to make them more individual or realistic. I have recovered an H9 P51 , and a U-CAN-D0 46. When I bring them to the field I always hear "those are best looking ARFs we have ever seen" .. you too can have this.

Finally - always remember the heat gun. When I get any ARF where I actually like the covering job, I go over the entire model with the heat gun to tighten it up. There is NEVER an excuse for any model with baggy covering. NEVER! Every one of my models - built up or ARF, looks like it just came off the assembly bench when I go to the field.

DP

Patriot

My Smith miniplane was in fact a Sig kit. I wouldn't call it much of a kit though. Maybe it's differant now, but when I built one, it was just a box of wood, with hardly anything die-cut. Came with the cowl, wheel pants, and bent strut wire, that's about it. It was a real builders kit, and alot of fun to build. So, in your case just building off the plans isn't much differant than buying the kit.
I got a set of Smith mini plans as well, and I blew them up to make a 40% giant scale version of the Smith. I am in the process of redesigning hard points and making my list for wood and getting info on scratch building as this is my first scratch build from plans alone. I am almost done with the redesign work and getting ready to load up on balsa. The wingspan is 81.4", and fuse length around 74". I guesstimate weight to be in around 18-20 lbs. And, I will power it with a Saito 300 twin. It is the only engine that will fit perfectly without having to cut up the cowl. I thought about using a small gas twin, but I really want a four stroke for great sound. Besides the saito 300 is such a cool engine to see through the cowl intakes.
I will be posting pics of construction when it begins. For now, I am still in the radio install and preparing for covering my Citabria, so it may a couple months before I get started on the next.
I will also be making it more of a sporterized version with more modern looks, sleeker wheel pants etc. It will be a real SuperSport version.

Patriot.