Stanoo

The plans call for I beams between the main spars this seems like an awful lot of trouble to fit vs just using the standard shear web towards the front of the wing is there a particular reason for this that will let it self be known later in building or in the plans cause im thinking shear webs otta be just as strong an an awful lot faster? any thoughts on the subject ?

Thanks in advance
Stano

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

I used sheer webs on the 6 Sledges I built. Jeff contends that his I beam method is just as strong if not stronger...

For the record, my sledge was shot down (Freq Hit) from about 20 ft up... went straight in.... Busted the fuse and 3 ribs bays... None of the sheer webs were affected at all.

777M8

I built the first 6 Sledges with the I-beam method,,,I built the last 3 Sledges in the standard method, If I build anymore it will also be the standard way,,, For the record Jeffs way looks better but I am not using transparent covering

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Shear webs are fine, run the grain vertical doing it the shear web way. If you do I beam it is OK to run the grain parallel. Yes, I said parallel if you use I beam only. Many folks have doubted me on this but I think with as many Sledges flying now as there are, I have proven it works. Besides, I did not come up with that I beam, I stole that from competition fun fly stick and boom wing type planes. It has worked for them for years with those tight loops producing all those G's. I figured if it worked for them it must be strong. Jeff W.

Stanoo

Okie hears another sledge question.. Anybody ever set up the sledge not going the pull pull route I got a whole sack full of 440 ball ends and the proper goodies I set the Burritto up this way and the control surfaces are solid as a rock absoloutly no slop what so ever pros and cons?

Thanks again

lomcevek1

Pull pull or pushrod either one has good and bad points. Personaly I don't really like the pull pull as it is a lot of work and difficult to repair. On the other hand long pushrods can flex and bind.

Personal preference comes into play here.

777M8

Ive seen a couple that had the elevator done with a push rod works fine I used a carbon fiber on mine with pull pull on the rudder, personaly I think they would work fine for both.. just my .02

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

I used 4-40 ball links and Pull-Pull..

lomcevek1

Wow it doesn't look like they clear each other or if they do then just barely.

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

It's an optical illusion. The rudder cables go into the fuse a lot lower than the elevator, they clear each other fine..

3Dreaming

My Feedback: (1)

With the ball links you can even get rid of the rigging coupler on one end. Just drill a 1/16" hole through the ball link and run the cable through it. Tom

Stanoo

Thanks for the advice guys ...

I went ahead and set it up for pull pull cleaning the pusrods is sorta a pain in the arse and I like the no servos on the exhaust side deal that makes a great place for my on off switch :::::grin::::: right behind the muffler!!!

Im wondering if I boo boo'ed or not I built the wing in sorta a rush I called myself following the plans but with the taper and the way the spars are set up the spars on the wing halfs just glue together in the middle or should I have made one spar brace to span the joint the leading edge piece is soild and the TE sheeting is soilid I plan on glassing the joint but ya think I should try and get me another spar brace in there thru the acess doors somehow orfly it?

3Dreaming

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you did it right. Tom