RVator

My Feedback: (1)

anyone know of a test stand plan out here on the web? I mean one made of alumimum and sturdy and adjustable.

CafeenMan

I bought a Craftsman tool stand from Sears and bolted a piece of polyurethaned 3/4 particle board to it. To that I attached a PSP engine test stand. I love it. It's the best stand I've owned.

Underneath it is a power panel, but it's located poorly for use with my starter. I plan to make an aluminum bracket for it to put it off to the side so the cord to the starter won't go into the prop. For now I have to use my field box as shown in the photo.

To answer your question, I don't know of any plans, but you could come up with something pretty easily. It's not that complicated. If you don't make something adjustable, then make something that allows you to bolt on plywood mounting plates and then just make a plate for each engine.

- Paul

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Depending on what size engines you will be running, I think I still have the drawings for mine. It's designed for big gas engines, but you could scale it down for smaller ones. Or you could do like I do, just use a 1/4" aircraft ply plate to mount the engine to and then bolt that to the test stand. Here's a few pics, I'll try to find the drawings if you're interested.

Ben

Patriot

I built my test stand out of spare wood in my garage left over from finishing my basement. I used one 4' long 2x6, a 4' long 2x4, and a scrap piece of 24"x24" 1/2" plywood. I cut the 2x6 in half, each 24" long, one for the vertical mount, and one for the base. Then cut two 20" 2x4's for underneath. I cut the square piece of 1/2" plywood into some angled sides, as you can see in the pics. Then, a smaller plywood piece on top for a shelf to install a test fuel tank. The back of the test stand has a nice 5 1/2" wide open storage area to install a battery. You can aslo install a power panel on the rear edges of the plywood if you can find one that fits. Not sure how wide most power panels are, but I will install one soon. Mine already has a nice little shelf I installed inside for extra tools etc.

Now, the 20" long 2x4's are attached to the bottom of the base 2x6 to make an I-beam configuration. This is done mainly so the stand can be securely clamped into a Black & Decker workmate or similar setup. The bottom piece of the I-beam is just to catch it if the Workmate comes loose, although I have yet to have a problem with this. It works very well, and can be easily removed and stored away anytime.

I have found it is extremely stable for engines 1.60 and below. But for larger engines, you will need to hang a weight or lay a heavy sand bag across the rear of the stand to keep it stable. I noticed that when I wound up my new Enya 155r, the stand would easily stay put, but that initial rev up to high rpm would make the stand jolt a little, so I hung a 35# bar-bell weight from my weight lifting set to the rear of the Workmate with an old piece of rope to hold it down.

I finished it off with some left over heavy urathane enamel floor paint used for industrial workplaces like I do at work. It is very thick and very strong. So far it has stood up to getting drenched with exhaust oil from the Enya with no problems.

To attach the engine mount to the stand, I simply used 2 1/2" heavy deck screws. They are the perfect size, and will just happen to fit through a #10 bolt hole in the mount with almost no play. Deck screws are nice and cheap.

This is the kicker. I took an old 1" ball valve from work that we were going to toss away because it leaks. It has smooth throw that is perfect for a manual throttle lever. I bored a hole through the 2x6 and stuck a small pipe nipple through it and capped the other end nice and tight to hold the valve in place. I then drill several small #2 and #4 holes in the handle for various places to hook on a spare clevice for the throttle linkage.

Believe it or not, this whole thing took me about as much time to build, as it did for me to type up this explanation of how I did it. Literally about 20 minutes. And another 10 minutes to slap on some paint. The whole thing is constructed with cheap 3 1/2" deck screws, and some 1" deck screws for the shelf on top for the fuel tank. I also used some left over urathane liquid nails on everything before screwing together, just to make sure it all holds.

Patriot

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Here's one I built 20 years ago. It's very simple to make. Everything is 2' long.

2x6 board cut two pieces 2' long and stack one on top of the other using glue and screws/nails.

2x4 board, cut four pieces 2' long and using a miter saw cut the corners at 45* angles. Attach to the doubled 1x6 using glue and screws/nails.

Attach commerical motor mount of your choice.

As you can see I also attached a piece of 2x4 on top, and placed the fuel tank there so it would be centered on the carbs of engines.

DaveGell

I did something similar to CafeenMan's using a commercial mount and a sheet metal folding sawhorse that I had. It puts the engine at a convenient height but has a small problem. The saw horse is not heavy enough. A Saito 54 can move the saw horse. I have to block the sawhorse in place with some cinder blocks to use it.

SamD

The PSP stand, while expensive, is the way to go; you'll never buy another stand- I love mine. CafeenMan, you've finally answered my question of what to do with the stray Craftsman stand that's been kicking around my shop. Instead of a wood board, though, I used a poly kitchen cutting board for the base. The plastic board is great- impervious to fuel and easy to clean up. While I payed way too much my cutting board, you ought to be able to find a cheap one at Wal-Mart, Fred Meyers, etc. I used coarse threaded inserts in the plastic to which machine screws thread into holding the PSP stand to the board. Doing this eliminates any fasteners on the bottom of the board. A hole in each corner of the board allows me to drive screws into the bench when I'm at the field thereby securing the whole works to the bench and not worry about clamps coming loose. I've got plans for that tool stand now, though...

CafeenMan

I agree that the PSP stand is the way to go. I've had a lot of test stands and without exception I always thought of them as temporary. My thinking being that one day I would have a good test stand. Now I do and I doubt I'll ever need another with the exception of engines that won't go in the PSP stand such as gas with a backplate mount.

I don't remember what I paid for the PSP stand but it's worth its weight in gold. Mine came with the older style throttle assemble. Right after I got it I e-mailed them and told them it would be better with a lever type throttle. Sure enough, that's what the new stands have. I suppose they probably heard that suggestion more than once.

- Paul

Bill DCat

I've found this little test stand from http://www.richmondrc.com for $17.95 plus shipping. It works like a champ. I've broken in two engines so far and haven't experienced a single problem with it.

[link=http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/storecusavma/productpages/productpage%20cusa%20vma%20ets120.htm]RichmondRC VMAR Test Stand[/link]

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Ditto the VMAR stand. I have broken in .25's to 1.2's with it and no problems.
Pete

CafeenMan

The VMAR looks like a lot of stand for eighteen bucks.