Doping 100in. SuperCub
03-15-2004, 11:07 AM
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Doping 100in. SuperCub
Recently ASSEMBLED A Hangar 9 ARF 100in. Super Cub. My Question is this: The manual says to prevent dirt and scuffs at the field, apply 1 coat of clear laquer or clear dope! Now since laquers are a banned substance in Canada(according to our local body shop supplier) I'm wondering what kind of dope to use(Nitrate or Butyrate), how to apply it(Brush, spray etc.), and generally what to do! I've never used dope before as I tend to assemble ARFS. Both kits I own were built by senior members of our club. Too intimidating for me. The Super Cub is covered in 21st Century Fabric as far as I know. I called 21st Century customer service and they said the fabric is fuel proof and the doping is recomended for cleanliness only. Seeing as the plane is mostly white I would like to keep it fairly clean if at all possible. Any help here would be much appreciated[sm=thumbup.gif]
03-15-2004, 11:27 AM
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RE: Doping 100in. SuperCub
Patter,
You want to use Butyrate dope. The best way to put it on would be to brush on the coat of thinned dope and then spray a couple of coats on.
You want to use Butyrate dope. The best way to put it on would be to brush on the coat of thinned dope and then spray a couple of coats on.
03-16-2004, 11:10 AM
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RE: Doping 100in. SuperCub
Thanks CliffordH,
Do I have to sand the dope in between the brush on and the sprayed coats? One more thing: What do I spray it on with or can I get dope in a spray bomb? Also how much do I thin it and with what? Totally new to the dope scene. Got a couple of senior guys in our club that have weird opinions on this subject. They tend to make planes that are twice as heavy as they should be. One said he would dope the plane for me but I'm afraid to get back a 25lb. supercub, LOL
Do I have to sand the dope in between the brush on and the sprayed coats? One more thing: What do I spray it on with or can I get dope in a spray bomb? Also how much do I thin it and with what? Totally new to the dope scene. Got a couple of senior guys in our club that have weird opinions on this subject. They tend to make planes that are twice as heavy as they should be. One said he would dope the plane for me but I'm afraid to get back a 25lb. supercub, LOL
ORIGINAL: CliffordH
Patter,
You want to use Butyrate dope. The best way to put it on would be to brush on the coat of thinned dope and then spray a couple of coats on.
Patter,
You want to use Butyrate dope. The best way to put it on would be to brush on the coat of thinned dope and then spray a couple of coats on.
03-16-2004, 04:58 PM
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RE: Doping 100in. SuperCub
Hey Patter,
I've done a lot of dope in my day... oops, I mean doping
but never on precolored fabric.
I'd want to spray first because dope tends to dissolve previous colors, and I wouldn't want to smear the colors with the brush. (The 21st Century fabric color probably won't run, but just in case I'd give it a light coat sprayed on first, then give it a chance to dry.
You thin dope with dope thinner, which is methyl ethyl ketone among other things... very crummy stuff to breathe, and stinks while drying. Use a respirator, and for the sake of your family life, spray it outdoors!
Good luck,
Phil
I've done a lot of dope in my day... oops, I mean doping
but never on precolored fabric.I'd want to spray first because dope tends to dissolve previous colors, and I wouldn't want to smear the colors with the brush. (The 21st Century fabric color probably won't run, but just in case I'd give it a light coat sprayed on first, then give it a chance to dry.
You thin dope with dope thinner, which is methyl ethyl ketone among other things... very crummy stuff to breathe, and stinks while drying. Use a respirator, and for the sake of your family life, spray it outdoors!
Good luck,
Phil
03-20-2004, 01:04 AM
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RE: Doping 100in. SuperCub
If you want to get it done with the least fussing, use Brodak clear (www.brodak.com) and thinner. Use only the correct thinner. Anything else may cause weird problems. Save some lacquer thinner or acetone for cleaning up.
Spray a light, dry first coat of clear thinned at least 50%. Test it on a flat panel first. You may want to go to 60% thinner. Light, dry first coat, allow to dry for a while, until it is looking dry, then spray a medium wet coat. With Brodak, you can shoot one coat a day until you're happy with it. Let it gas off for a couple of weeks, then you can wet sand and buff if the desire moves you.
The clear has no pigment and a lot of the weight evaporates off, so the weight buildup should be reasonable. If you just want to seal it, 2-3 coats should do fine.
OR: Dupont Chroma Clear from the auto paint supply would work well also. I can turn you onto some info on how to do that, too, of you want. I'm just don't have the experience.
Spray a light, dry first coat of clear thinned at least 50%. Test it on a flat panel first. You may want to go to 60% thinner. Light, dry first coat, allow to dry for a while, until it is looking dry, then spray a medium wet coat. With Brodak, you can shoot one coat a day until you're happy with it. Let it gas off for a couple of weeks, then you can wet sand and buff if the desire moves you.
The clear has no pigment and a lot of the weight evaporates off, so the weight buildup should be reasonable. If you just want to seal it, 2-3 coats should do fine.
OR: Dupont Chroma Clear from the auto paint supply would work well also. I can turn you onto some info on how to do that, too, of you want. I'm just don't have the experience.
