Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I am trying to install a kill switch on the G38. I did a search and no two answers were the same. There is no wire with a female end. The only wire from the coli is a 2 inch long, VERY small wire, that is soldered to a small tab. How are you guys installing the switch to this wire? Some say not to solder as the heat could damage the coil. This wire is too short to splice into!!

thanks

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

Just solder the appropriate length of wire to the end of the small one,
run it to your kill switch, and ground the other switch terminal to the block.

edit... the heat from soldering to the wire's free end won't damage the coil.
If it makes you feel better, heatsink the wire with a hemostat or needle-nose pliers
before you begin the solder job. It's not really a big deal either way
Afterthought... don't forget to place your heatshrink tubing over the wire, before
you solder... or at least tape the joint very well with electrical tape afterwards.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

There is no free end to the small wire from the coil. It is soldered to a small tab. Can I just solder another wire at that connection?

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

My apologies... I "assumed" too much!
I "assumed" you had the setup depicted here: http://www.vario.co.kr/mat/mat/zeneng.pdf

If you solder to that tab, just use enough of a gun so that you make the connection quickly.
Don't linger for five minutes with a 20watt iron... that's what may damage the coil
A typical Weller soldering "gun" will make for a much quicker connection, if you tin the wire first.
(Alternately, you could strip off 1/4" or so of insulation in the middle... and solder the pigtail there.)

I've honestly not seen that particular setup before. Perhaps someone will step in who has.
If not, it won't hurt to try soldering a pigtail there... then hooking up the kill switch as normal.
If that doesn't work, it may be that it will die with the wire UNgrounded... in which case you'd
wire the switch in series with that wire, (by snipping it) instead of grounding to the block.


Sorry for any confusion!

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks for your advice. Maybe someone with this set-up will offer some help. If you are ever down around Griffin, come visit us at the Flying Griffins!

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The G38 is the ONLY Zenoah that is not set up that way...Solder a wire to the small tab...When it is grounded the engine will stop, just like Hill 202 has said....

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Well... I have reached the point where it is time to solder the wire...I guess my soldering is not worth a $#%t. I cannot make it stick!!
I am afraid I will get the coil too hot... any advice??

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

Just to make sure... are you using a gun that's up to the task? (See picture below)
If so, just tin the new wire you're trying to add, with a bit of solder,
and you should be able to make this connection in no time at all.

As with any soldering job, heat the work until the solder will flow.
Don't heat the solder and just let it dribble around the work. It'll never stick.
(Sorry if that's old news to you. I mention it only because I'm not sure if you know it.)

If you have no other choice and must use an iron, then forget about soldering to the tab.
Instead, strip back a bit of insulation on the existing wire, wrap the new wire into place,
and solder there, instead of to the tab. The iron may take far too long to heat up the tab properly.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I am using a gun ( the top pic in your post). I am afraid to heat the work too much, the heat may damage the coil, according to Mr Petit. My soldering has never been great but this is a small task. I can't believe I am having this much trouble

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

Make sure the soldering tip is tightened properly in the gun. (They loosen over time,
and don't always make good contact, causing the tip to never get hot enough,
or at least, greatly increasing the amount of time it takes to get hot enough.)

Clean the very tip, and apply some new solder there, to "tin" the tip.

Make sure you have the gun "up to temp" first, before contacting the work.
(Bring it to the temp required to melt a piece of solder onto the tip for tinning,
then immediately make the attempt to solder the wire to the tab.)

Yes, too much heat could damage the coil... but it should not be damaged in
the time it takes to add this wire. (Which should be under 10 seconds, realistically)

If you're worried about it, just strip the existing wire a bit, and solder to the wire instead.
It will heat up quicker, and you'll make the joint faster, not transferring nearly as much heat into the coil.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks I'll give it a try