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Help... Painted covering in the heat..

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Help... Painted covering in the heat..

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Old 06-04-2004, 11:46 PM
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bayareajeff
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Default Help... Painted covering in the heat..

Hello.. I am new to this forum and have done a few days worth of reading before posting this. Any help would be great.
I am back into the hobby after quite a few years and bought a Sig Kougar. I have used film coverings before but wanted something differnt - So I thought I'd paint it. Sig still recommends coving the plane even if you paint it. After a lot of reading I ended up using Nelson Covering and painting it with Rustoleum - Primer, White base coat, various highlights and clearcoat - All Rustoleum products.

Everything was smooth until I started masking... but I worked around the masking problems and finally today put a clear coat on. I took my wing outside and gave it 2 coats. I left it outside for about 20 minutes in the sun. When I came back.. to my horrow.. the covering lifted from the sheeted wing - bubble all over the top of the wing. I FINALLY got it right and now this. I took out my iron and put a sock over it and started trying to get the bubbles out. So far so good.
Then it occured to me... I will be in the sun all the time, Will it always do that? How can I get the covering to stay down? Any ideas? SHould I just take the covering off and glass the wing and start over?

Thanks you for your input...

Jeff E
Old 06-04-2004, 11:51 PM
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LGM Graphix
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

I have never used the Nelson covering and I wouldn't use rustoleum paint ever, but with many paints on fabric covering it will wrinkle a bit as it cures, but usually will tighten back up. After it's done that once it shouldn't do it again. From the sounds of how bad yours was though I wonder if you pulled the covering tight enough when you initially covered it? Before you strip it, sit it out in the sun in the yard for an afternoon and see what happens.
Old 06-05-2004, 12:00 AM
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bayareajeff
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

Thanks for the reponse.

when I applied the covering I did it as per the manufactures instructions - I pulled it as tight as I could as I went over it with the Iron. I assumed that the covering would adhere to the balsa like monocoat does. I know mono coat will loosen in the sun as well but for the most part once its on it doesnt move all that much. I will leave it out tomorrow and see what happens.


What other paint would you have used?


Jeff
Old 06-05-2004, 10:19 PM
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

Jeff,
I use pretty much only Automotive base/clear systems, However I also have the benefit of having a full spray booth and safety equipment since it's what I do for a living. They aren't paints to be used without proper precautions but they are the best paint you can use.
I've been thinking about your problem for a while today, and I'm wondering, how is the nelson covering applied? I've never even seen nelson covering (though if it's the same company that makes the paints I'd be a little leary of the product, the paints suck)
But, is it just a heat activated covering? or do you need to apply balsa rite or something to make it stick? I wonder if the solvent in the rustoleum paint you used soaked the fabric covering just enough that it affected the adhesive for the covering causing it to loosen up, while the paint cured. I've seen some of the 2 part paints wrinkle covering as it cures, but that is usually because as the curing reaction happens heat is produced, that wouldn't be case in this situation.
Let me know what it does in the sun again. Oh, for what it's worth, if you used dark colors (blacks, dark blues etc) it will be more apt to wrinkle in the sun just due to the absorption and retention of heat.
Old 06-07-2004, 05:56 PM
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

Jeff,

It sounds to me like you need to vent the wing. The sun is warming up the air inside the structure and it's blowing up like a hot air balloon. The Rustoleum paint (I've almost finished my first project using Rustoleum) dries with a very "plastic" like texture, which seems like it'll be wonderful for keeping the gunk out and remaining fuel proof, but it wont allow air to pass through.

I'd try drilling a couple of small (1/16) holes in some unnoticable locations so the warm air can escape when the plane is in the sun. Then try it again while keeping an eye on it.

Phil
Old 06-07-2004, 08:33 PM
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bayareajeff
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

Thank you gentlemen for the responses. I put the wing out in the sun again and sure enough they went away until I brought it inside. At least it makes sense now. Sun = Shrink Cool = expands. I think it was somthing to do with the Rustoleum and heat. As for the Nelson covering.. It is applied with heat just like monocoat. It went on great but I think it lacks the adhesive that monocoat has. In retrospect I should have applied another adhesive like Balsorite to make sure it sticks and does not lift.
My work around: After looking at the wing and seeing the wonderful bubbles and having followed what was said on their webite - Heat and rub it down. I placed the wing out in the Sun again.. Letting as many rise as possible. I got a couple of hyperdermic needles and loaded up some thin CA and injected it into the bubble and flattened it out with a rag. it works so far. I have put it out in the sun a few more times and have not had any more rise up. My next step was to take the covering off and glass the wing very lightly and redo it. But so far this is working. I want to fly it, not look at it. So, if its a great flyer and the covering lifts I will probably glass it and repaint - or just build another plane! This is a sport flyer. My father restores antique cars and does a lot of painting so i think I had this little perfectionism streak going. Anyway, sorry to go on and on.. its time to fly.
Thanks again.
Jeff
Old 06-18-2004, 09:46 AM
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Default RE: Help... Painted covering in the heat..

I have had excellent results using latex paint. It is a lighter finish than many of the other finishes out there. The only thing you need to do (if using glo fuel) is clear coat it. I use 2 thin coats of MinWax PolyCrylic (water base) and find it fuel resistant to 10% nitro. The water base does not yellow either. To get a "true" fuel proof paint you will need to use one of the 2 part epoxy paints.

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