MyNeed4Speed

My Feedback: (2)

All, I've read through the many posts here on removing oil from balsa, and decided to try the acetone technique. Since I had some on hand, and was having trouble finding K2R anywhere ...

The fuel/oil is inside the tank compartment... I spray the balsa w/ Acetone using a hand sprayer, then wipe what I can. Problem is, doesn't feel like anything is coming of on the rag, and the balsa continues to be a green color (like the fuel color).

Touching the balsa though, doesn't feel like it is oily ...

So am I doing this correctly? Or does it just take multiple applications?

Thanks,
Randy

the-plumber

Maybe re-think that acetone bit . . .

If you used CA to build that model, the acetone is busily turning the cured CA into yucky rubbery useless stuff.

If you can't find k2r, try the old saw about getting candle was out of a table cloth . . . fold up a paper towel several times, and iron the paper towel onto the oil-soaked balsa.

The heat from the iron going through the paper towel will thin out the oil and expand it (driving it to the surface) , and the towel will absorb it. May take several iterations to get all the oil out, but the method does work.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Might be hard getting the iron inside the fuel tank compartment.

hookedonrc

I had fuel in the tank compartment of my 4*60 and was able to get most of it out using kitty litter. I took the tank out, plugged the hole where the fuel lines exit the front, tipped the plane up on its nose and filled the cavity with the litter. Let it set for 3 days and then dumped it out. Then I used the shop vac to take out the rest of the residue and put the tank back in. It worked pretty well for me. Although I have heard it said that you can use corn starch to do the same thing. Haven't tried it though.

Ugo Ferrari

My Feedback: (1)

Just like Hook says...Fill it up with Cat Litter and let it set a few days, then dump it out !!
Works fine !! And cheap...A 10 lb. bag at the local "Dollar Store", only $ 1.00 ! I always keep a bag on hand.[]

Good Luck,
Ugo

Bruno Stachel

My Feedback: (4)

How about brake cleaner? I heard someone at our field suggest using it. He said to take the fuse outside, spray the affected area, and let the excess run out or soak it up with paper towels. Repeat until your satisfed you have removed enough of the oil.

Sport_Pilot

Denatured alcohol works as well as acetone and doesn't destroy any glue or covering left on the model. Get some baby powder or corn starch, spray or sprinkle the alcohol on the wood, douse a heavy coat of baby powder 1/8 to 1/4" thick, spray more alcohol on the baby powder, cover with plastic or wax paper. Let it sit over night. Remove the baby powder. Repeat as necessary. I don't know it the green dye will come out with the oil, the dye may or may not come with it. Red seems to come out though.

the-plumber

Oh, yeah.

Didn't realize it might be one of those tiny models.
<g>

I don't have a problem getting a moneycoat iron in my models, _anywhere_.

. . . duh . . .

blvdbuzzard

I will say that the Denatured alcohol works great. I soak the balsa with it and it dreis in about 10 minutes. The oil residue is gone. I too have used the breke cleaner. It work well to. The brake cleaner can melt the glue under the covering though. Try getting the tank compartment wet with alcohol, dump in some kitty liter/corn starch. The color may not come out with the oil. The pigment in the fuel could have stained the balsa just like an oil stain for wood working.

Dru.

Strat2003

My Feedback: (1)

I've had success with a combination of methods, starting with cooking the oil out with a covering iron then some sort of absorbent material. I mostly use K2R but it's getting hard to find....got it a Wal Mart most recently.

It's surprising just how much oil the wood will hold and cooking it out saves a lot of time when you do go to the kitty litter, talcum powder, cornstarch or K2R.

dennyjr

you could maybe use a heat gun or hair dryer instead of the iron, and use paper towels to get as much oil as you can absorbed then use the denatured alcohol to finish it up.