YW engines
10-03-2004, 08:17 PM
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RE: YW engines
ORIGINAL: greenboot
Uh, did you mean YS engines?
Tom
Uh, did you mean YS engines?
Tom
http://www.ywengine.com
I saw one of their 48cc twins in Chip Hyde's (his personal) Cap-X. It was very light, quite powerful and ran very well.
10-03-2004, 09:02 PM
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RE: YW engines
I lost MVVS 1.6 two weeks ago and to be happy again I finally have YW-24-V4 engine, will try it on my CG Super Chipmunk (no other suitable plane this moment) this weekend and will post review on it.
The engine has its own issues but looks and feels nice.
The engine has its own issues but looks and feels nice.
10-10-2004, 11:21 PM
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RE: YW engines
Chipmunk isn't flying. Nice installation and she came to 3.9 kg. But having a number of troubles with YW24 engine. Engine goes to Korea. I will not post my experience with this engine, otherwise my review will end this engine line instantly. It’s to bad, they are pretty looking and very light engines.
10-11-2004, 02:19 AM
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RE: YW engines
I have a YW 48 twin in my World Models Extra. It runs very well. The only problem I have is the mufflers coming loose. I have tried a Hyde Mount as advised by someone on this forum. It has made little difference to the muffler problem but does seem to make the whole model smoother. I think the mufflers are the problem. The tube the bolt goes through is too soft.
As far as performance is concerned, i cannot fault the YW 48. Pulls the 80" extra with great authority.
Regards
As far as performance is concerned, i cannot fault the YW 48. Pulls the 80" extra with great authority.
Regards
10-11-2004, 02:52 PM
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RE: YW engines
Tommy
I've got the same combination. I was planning on test flying it later this month. Can you suggest any precaution to avoid the muffler problem. I assume you have the original YW mufflers??
I've got the same combination. I was planning on test flying it later this month. Can you suggest any precaution to avoid the muffler problem. I assume you have the original YW mufflers??
10-11-2004, 03:56 PM
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RE: YW engines
G'Day Mate,
Well I don't have a definitive answer. I have tightened the mufflers a tight as I can and used lock wire, I also have a Merl Hyde soft mount. Now I can fly all day without the mufflers falling off. However they are still a little loose at the end of the day. By loose I mean you can get some movement if you wiggle the pipes. Does not seem to affect the performance. I am working on a modification to the muffler where I will make stronger tubes where the bolt go through. My idea is to make them about 1/8" thick walls so I can really tighten the bolts. I will drill out the original tubes and drill a shallow countersink in the underside of the flanges. The tubes will have the same shape on their ends and be welded to the muffler. When I get it done I will send some pics.
Until then I just keep tightening them after a days flying. I think that YW should address the problem however and fit stronger tubes as standard.
You will love the YW/World models extra combination. Mine flies like it is on rails and has more power than I need. I have tried various props. My favorite is a 21x8 bolly carbon prop. I get about 7300 rpm.
I ahve also tried a 21x8 master scimitar. revs a little higher (7600) but the bolly seems to have more pull. I have not flown it enough to do any realy serious tests. Mine has had only about 2 gallons through it.
let me know how yours goes.
Regards
Well I don't have a definitive answer. I have tightened the mufflers a tight as I can and used lock wire, I also have a Merl Hyde soft mount. Now I can fly all day without the mufflers falling off. However they are still a little loose at the end of the day. By loose I mean you can get some movement if you wiggle the pipes. Does not seem to affect the performance. I am working on a modification to the muffler where I will make stronger tubes where the bolt go through. My idea is to make them about 1/8" thick walls so I can really tighten the bolts. I will drill out the original tubes and drill a shallow countersink in the underside of the flanges. The tubes will have the same shape on their ends and be welded to the muffler. When I get it done I will send some pics.
Until then I just keep tightening them after a days flying. I think that YW should address the problem however and fit stronger tubes as standard.
You will love the YW/World models extra combination. Mine flies like it is on rails and has more power than I need. I have tried various props. My favorite is a 21x8 bolly carbon prop. I get about 7300 rpm.
I ahve also tried a 21x8 master scimitar. revs a little higher (7600) but the bolly seems to have more pull. I have not flown it enough to do any realy serious tests. Mine has had only about 2 gallons through it.
let me know how yours goes.
Regards
10-12-2004, 02:10 AM
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RE: YW engines
Your idea is not bad, Tom, frankly speaking I think it is easier to buy that Abell mufflers for YW24 – two, and bent exhaust tubes 90 degree (70 $ more).
I would be very gentle with these bolts because the head is made of some kind of alloy that is easy breakable (like glass). When you use soft mufflers – mufflers bent, when you use strong mufflers – head breaks. I have a nice photo, check you PM.
I would be very gentle with these bolts because the head is made of some kind of alloy that is easy breakable (like glass). When you use soft mufflers – mufflers bent, when you use strong mufflers – head breaks. I have a nice photo, check you PM.
10-13-2004, 06:31 PM
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RE: YW engines
Thank you friends , could it be that the engine is overheating. I've had the the same loose muffler problems with 4s glow engines because of overheating ???
Tommy , I installed a 20x10 zinger on my YW48 . Do you think it will affect the handling??
Tommy , I installed a 20x10 zinger on my YW48 . Do you think it will affect the handling??
10-13-2004, 08:20 PM
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RE: YW engines
Hi Tom!---I'm the guy that recommended the "HydeSoftMount"---I'm sorry & also disappointed that you are still having muffler problems!---Like I said earlier, I am also using a YW48 on a "HydeSoftMount" with ZERO problems---With this minor (maybe not so minor!) difference---I have a 6mm (.250") alum. spacer between muffler & cylinder mounting surfaces (to correct a muffler/"HydeSoftMount" interference problem) Your "HydeSoftMount" is probably a later version---This required longer muffler mounting bolts, purchased locally & no doubt a different material---Is it possible that the original bolts are stretching?---I never used the original bolts---that seems to be the only difference---I would be glad to take & post pictures if you would like---
Later
Ed
Later
Ed
10-13-2004, 08:46 PM
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RE: YW engines
I think that "I have a 6mm (.250" alum. spacer between muffler & cylinder mounting surfaces" could be key words. It is well known, that gaskets could cause these loose muffler problems, especially this one (paronit kind) that comes with YW engines. Did any one try to mount muffler without gasket at all?
10-14-2004, 11:28 AM
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RE: YW engines
Hi all
I think "tande"is right he used different bolts for his spacers they are probably better grade
than the stock bolts,and he used no gaskets just high temp silicone.
I think "tande"is right he used different bolts for his spacers they are probably better grade
than the stock bolts,and he used no gaskets just high temp silicone.
11-09-2004, 05:47 AM
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RE: YW engines
Guys,
I think I have found the answer to the "YW Muffler" problem. I made stronger tubes for the bolts. I made them from 3/8 alluminium bar and drilled them for the bolts. I turned a short taper on one end.
I drilled the old tubes out and continued drilling till I had a shallow countersink under the flange.
I welded them to the outside of the muffler. The idea is that the taper on the tube will fit into the countersink.
I havnt flow them yet but you can really lean on the allen wrench and ther is no distortion of the muffler as before,
I will fly it on the weekend and post the results.
Regards
I think I have found the answer to the "YW Muffler" problem. I made stronger tubes for the bolts. I made them from 3/8 alluminium bar and drilled them for the bolts. I turned a short taper on one end.
I drilled the old tubes out and continued drilling till I had a shallow countersink under the flange.
I welded them to the outside of the muffler. The idea is that the taper on the tube will fit into the countersink.
I havnt flow them yet but you can really lean on the allen wrench and ther is no distortion of the muffler as before,
I will fly it on the weekend and post the results.
Regards
01-18-2005, 10:56 AM
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RE: YW engines
Hi everybody.
The muffler problem has been encountered before. It's because of how soft the aluminum body and tubes are. Our solution is twofold. First, we discard the gaskets that come with the mufflers and instead rely on either hi-temp silicone (the red-ish stff) for the seal, or what "I" use myself, a thin smear of JB Weld epoxy on the flange - yes, epoxy! It works just fine and when you remove the muffler bolts, a rap with the plastic handle of a screw driver will break them loose whereupon a single edge razor balde cleans the mounting surface much more easily than dealing with the residue from silicone.
However, the real trick to preventing the muffler bolts from coming loose is to firstly clean the threads of both the bolts and in the head with acetone or laquer thinner to remove machine oil. Do a very good job! Then just use a liberal (i.e. ample) amount of regular blue thread locker (not the permanent red stuff or you'll need some serious heat to remove them). That should do the job.
We don't routinely cruise through here as we have a tech support forum on our website - www.ywengines.com
We are there to serve you.
The muffler problem has been encountered before. It's because of how soft the aluminum body and tubes are. Our solution is twofold. First, we discard the gaskets that come with the mufflers and instead rely on either hi-temp silicone (the red-ish stff) for the seal, or what "I" use myself, a thin smear of JB Weld epoxy on the flange - yes, epoxy! It works just fine and when you remove the muffler bolts, a rap with the plastic handle of a screw driver will break them loose whereupon a single edge razor balde cleans the mounting surface much more easily than dealing with the residue from silicone.
However, the real trick to preventing the muffler bolts from coming loose is to firstly clean the threads of both the bolts and in the head with acetone or laquer thinner to remove machine oil. Do a very good job! Then just use a liberal (i.e. ample) amount of regular blue thread locker (not the permanent red stuff or you'll need some serious heat to remove them). That should do the job.
We don't routinely cruise through here as we have a tech support forum on our website - www.ywengines.com
We are there to serve you.
