J-a-s-o-n

luispimentel,

You can post pictures buy not using the fast reply but using the "post reply" link directly below the last post. click on it and under the smileys and to the right it will say "upload images" You should be able to use that. As far as using other servos I don't think it will be that easy because of the small plugs on the circuit board . Read post # 8 above. You may have to go seperates or use a different curcuit board. I hope that this has helped I have had my Jabo for only a month now so I'm not as experienced as most people on this forum. You could start a new post to see if anybody has any better ideas.

luispimentel

Hi Jason!
Thanks for your help.
I own 2 Multiplex MS-X2, take a look. But even with this i still have a problem because my origal servos does not have holes on the horn, in the original the pin are in the servo horn and the link have holes. So i'm trying to modify my links now.

J-a-s-o-n

maybe you could use a washer like this one to cover the hole

luispimentel

I didn't explaim well. The problem is the Servo control arm. I have all the MS-X2 Arms but none is like the origal. Take a look on the original parts.

luispimentel

To Justin:

Here is a link to my Jabo manufacturer site http://zhyk.com.cn

J-a-s-o-n

Sorry,

I see now. I hope you can make it work.

JohnY2004

Has anyone tried ordering parts from http://zhyk.com.cn?

DeuceMan_408

Justin did the servo from you link http://www.raidentech.com/miseforthbi.html work? Is it a direct drop in?

JohnY2004

The servo from raidentech is for colco 2. The red wire is on the left or right and it's not in the middle as jabo2's. you'll need to switch the red to the middle on the plug. Does anybody know where can I buy those little jabo servo plugs? I want to use the female plug for the tail wires and male for the tailmotor. Each time when I change the tail motor, I can just unplug it. They are light and shouldn't add much weight. Now the tail wires of my jabo2 are getting shorter each time because they are damaged by the heat from the soldering iron after so many tailmotor replacement. I have to cut off the damaged portion.

http://www.uce-tech.com/
This vendor carries parts for jabo2 but it's expensive. The only things that I'd buy from this vendor are servos and mainshaft.

If I need other parts for jabo2, I'd just buy colco 2 parts from raidentech. The spare part compatibilities between jabo2 and colco 2 are very high.

This hobby is expensive, but you've got to look around for cheaper spare parts and throw away your money wisely.

J-a-s-o-n

JohnY2004,


Never tried looks like too much trouble. I've ordered from uce-tech.com once for a couple of servos. He has a list of parts that are not on the website he will e-mail it to you.

Zero262

Jason,

How are you finding landings with your Jabo now?

I read your post about losing control when trying to decend from the hover and i have been having the same problem but not due to interference.
Wether im hovering or in forward flight as soon as i begin to reduce throttle to decend the nose pitches up and i cant point it back down which leads to it drifting about.
If i increase throttle i can sometimes get it back in control. If i decrease throttle it starts to shake violently and drops lke a brick!

I have the standard set up with flybar set centrally and paddles set flat.
I have tried using more nose down trim too.
It is fitted with training gear, perhaps that's not helping?


Have you found your flybar shortening and angling mods help to solve your landing probs?

Thanks
Steve

J-a-s-o-n

I never got around to shortening the flybar. Slight angle on the paddles does help with stability but it sounds like you may have a tracking problem that causes the vibration at lower rpms. One other thing it could be is a coning effect produced when the tips of your blades bending upward from the lift produced. A head stiffener should help that problem. I tried the training gear but didn't like them.

Shard

Why don't you guys just cut the servo wires and change the connectors?? Worked perfect on my Hitec servos.. plus the heli will be much more stable.

Zero262

Jason,

I have a metal plate below the rotor head which the main blade screws go through which came as standard, it feels fairly stiff.
Yesterday i ordered some tuning blades for $23 which claim to cone less, and also allow loops apparently! but all i want to do is land the critter as normally as possible.

Shard,
I will try changing servo's also, i notice that the standard ones have a fair bit of play in the cogs. You can wiggle the servo arm around about 1mm in each direction before the slack is taken up!
I will solder the new servos leads to the leads in the Jabo connectors as you say, seems fairly straightforward?

Zero262

Yesterday i thought i'd try my Jabo 2 without the training gear on again, and it was swinging around like a pedulum, just as JohnY2004 said. I had the feeling that no matter how long i practiced there was no way i could stop the pendulum effect due to the lack of response on the controls, so, i had a go at cutting the flybar length down as JohnY2004 suggest.
I cut 7mm off of each end angled the paddles up by about 5 degrees, took it out side and i was stunned!!!
It sprung into the air and hovered with hardly any drift!!
I was able to go forwards, backwards, hover and keep it level for the first time in 3 weeks!

Also the landings were more realistic, i could decend to the ground and lightly touch down without any shaking and the the pitch was controllable!

I did noticed that the longer it was up, the motor got hotter and the lift became unpredictable, fading and causing a few drifts, so i've ordered a heat sink for the motor to see if that helps. Perhaps good qaulity batteries would improve thing too?

Just want to say thanks to John for the info, as i would never have tried it without him trying it first!

Hmm, i wonder what happens if you take 15mm off the flybar?

J-a-s-o-n

Zero262,

What did you use to cut the flybar with? I afraid that it will splinter or split so i havent tried yet.

Zero262

I used a fine toothed razor saw, they have a very thin blade. Its feels fairly soft to cut through. I put it on a flat surface and gradualy sawed through it, not using too much pressure, no splinters ect.

Still amazed at the difference in handling on the heli for such a small change in flybar length!

SexyPizzaMan

My Feedback: (19)

So in all are you satisfied with the jabo 2?? I want a heli that can hoover well, and i can fly. I have rap 50 flew it but crashed and cost 150 to repair
i want to train of a cheaper heli, i bet i could buy a jabo same price it cost me to repair my heli. Please let me know if its good.

Zero262

Since i bought the jabo 2, it has had alot of really bad crashes\ collisions with the only damage being the ball joint on the rotor head snapping off (after bouncing off of a conifer 25ft up and dropping to the ground!)and a small split in the tail rotor, total cost to repair £10.

Mine needed a few tweaks to make it hover reasonably well, and it flies around ok aprt from when i shut the throttle to decend but apparently stiffer blades help with that problem so i've ordered some to try out.

I'd give it 8 out of 10 for fun, durability and economy compared to larger models, especially while learning!

R-Rudder

The colco mainblades produce a lot of lift and they are very stiff and the curvature (top surface) of the blades won't change under load. The Jabo2 mainblades are too soft and do not generate much lift due to the curvature of the blades deformed (flat) under load and at high rpm. That head stifferner is to prevent the heli from flaring.

rcxm

jason:
your servo is Jabo 2 4in1 version servo, 3in1 servo is little different, ,
you may go to website www.xmseller.com to check all jabo servo parts info.
ask owner to get all different servo price info.