2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
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2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
Hi All,
I once saw a post on here that had some very good pictures of the Duellist in various stages of construction. I have look high and low for those pictures and can't find them. Could someone please post them agian or lead me in the right direction? Mine is coming along slowly, what a mess all the carving and shaping makes!
TIA,
Chris
I once saw a post on here that had some very good pictures of the Duellist in various stages of construction. I have look high and low for those pictures and can't find them. Could someone please post them agian or lead me in the right direction? Mine is coming along slowly, what a mess all the carving and shaping makes!
TIA,
Chris
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RE: 2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
Chris:
There has not been a Duellist building thread, so there is no one place to go.
What you'll have to do is search on "Duellist" and after a while you'll find them.
If you're on dial-up it will take a long time. Sorry.
For the moment, here are some I have.
Bill.
There has not been a Duellist building thread, so there is no one place to go.
What you'll have to do is search on "Duellist" and after a while you'll find them.
If you're on dial-up it will take a long time. Sorry.
For the moment, here are some I have.
Bill.
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RE: 2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
More.
Disregard the diagonal bracing in the wing, picture #3. Not in the design, Larry never told me why he had done it. All I can figure is he was planning to use a film covering instead of sheeting the wing.
Bill.
Disregard the diagonal bracing in the wing, picture #3. Not in the design, Larry never told me why he had done it. All I can figure is he was planning to use a film covering instead of sheeting the wing.
Bill.
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RE: 2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
Comments:
The first three pictures are a 2/40 Mk I version built with some of the 2.40 Mk II modifications, particularly the sub rudder. Wing and stab incidences were left at +2 degrees, with the engines set to +2 degrees thrust line.
The last picture in the first group and the first in the second group are a Mk I being built with twin vertical fins and extended wing tips.
The next two are a Super Duellist Mk II 2/60 that I've heard nothing about for a couple years - lost track of it.
The last picture in the second batch and all the third batch are the Super Duellist built by Lonnie Fuller, in Southern Georgia. This plane is finished, The last I heard it had not flown. If the engines seem small in the last picture, it's because it is the larger version plane, the engines should give you an idea of the overall size.
Bill.
The first three pictures are a 2/40 Mk I version built with some of the 2.40 Mk II modifications, particularly the sub rudder. Wing and stab incidences were left at +2 degrees, with the engines set to +2 degrees thrust line.
The last picture in the first group and the first in the second group are a Mk I being built with twin vertical fins and extended wing tips.
The next two are a Super Duellist Mk II 2/60 that I've heard nothing about for a couple years - lost track of it.
The last picture in the second batch and all the third batch are the Super Duellist built by Lonnie Fuller, in Southern Georgia. This plane is finished, The last I heard it had not flown. If the engines seem small in the last picture, it's because it is the larger version plane, the engines should give you an idea of the overall size.
Bill.
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RE: 2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
Thank you for the pictures. I am at the nose carving stage and worried that I'll mess it up some how. Do you have any suggestions for that phase?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
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RE: 2/40 Pica Duellist Picture Request
Chris:
ALL the blocks should be hollowed as much as possible.
Easiest method for the nose block is start by making a vertical split in it if you have the one piece block. If yours was supplied as two chunks to put together you're already past step one.
With the fuselage sheeted and rough shaped tack the two parts of the nose block together, and tack it to former F1. Shape it along with the fuselage and get almost to the point of final sanding.
Pop the nose block off again, and split it back into two pieces. This allows the most room and easiest access for hollowing it. You should end up with a wall thickness of approximately 1/8", no more.
The wing tips and nacelle blocks can be hollowed without having to split them, again, 1/8" wall thickness at most.
Most heavy Duellists add their first excess weight by not having the blocks hollowed enough.
Bill.
ALL the blocks should be hollowed as much as possible.
Easiest method for the nose block is start by making a vertical split in it if you have the one piece block. If yours was supplied as two chunks to put together you're already past step one.
With the fuselage sheeted and rough shaped tack the two parts of the nose block together, and tack it to former F1. Shape it along with the fuselage and get almost to the point of final sanding.
Pop the nose block off again, and split it back into two pieces. This allows the most room and easiest access for hollowing it. You should end up with a wall thickness of approximately 1/8", no more.
The wing tips and nacelle blocks can be hollowed without having to split them, again, 1/8" wall thickness at most.
Most heavy Duellists add their first excess weight by not having the blocks hollowed enough.
Bill.