Top-Flite DC-3
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Top-Flite DC-3
I am thinking about a TF CD-3 as my next project and my first twin. I was wondering what to expect, both in terms of kit quality, difficulty of build and flight characteristics.
I had been planning to use two OS 40LA or OS 40FX as the OS Wankel engines are quite expensive.
Any comments?
Thanks in advance
Ari Palsson
I had been planning to use two OS 40LA or OS 40FX as the OS Wankel engines are quite expensive.
Any comments?
Thanks in advance
Ari Palsson
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
I have a fair number of twins and multis in my collection and the only dud was a DC3, to me it is NOT a good first twin to build, the most stable, it you are into scale is a PBY, nice big thick wing, engines close together, very stable flyer good luck Mike
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
Ari:
If you are set on going scale for your first twin, the DC-3 is no worse than most, and better than some.
As Mike said, the PBY-5 or PBY-5A are probably the best (easiest flying) military or civilian scale planes to go for, but I really think a sport twin, deswigned as an RC plane, would be better.
If you wsant to build, the Duellist is a hard plane to beat except for the difficulty on construction; it's not a beginner's kit. Alternately, the Twin-Air 45 from Northeast Aerodynamics is an easy build, and an excellent flier.
If you want a "Squeeze-the-glue-and-shake-the-box" plane, also known as an ARF, the TwinStar is good but small, the Twin Stick from Cedar Hobbies is larger and much more aerobatic.
Any of these planes will get you used to operating twin engines, and they all handle well on a single engine.
Just my thoughts, you have to satisfy yourself.
Bill.
If you are set on going scale for your first twin, the DC-3 is no worse than most, and better than some.
As Mike said, the PBY-5 or PBY-5A are probably the best (easiest flying) military or civilian scale planes to go for, but I really think a sport twin, deswigned as an RC plane, would be better.
If you wsant to build, the Duellist is a hard plane to beat except for the difficulty on construction; it's not a beginner's kit. Alternately, the Twin-Air 45 from Northeast Aerodynamics is an easy build, and an excellent flier.
If you want a "Squeeze-the-glue-and-shake-the-box" plane, also known as an ARF, the TwinStar is good but small, the Twin Stick from Cedar Hobbies is larger and much more aerobatic.
Any of these planes will get you used to operating twin engines, and they all handle well on a single engine.
Just my thoughts, you have to satisfy yourself.
Bill.
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
Gents,
Thanks for the comments. I think I may still go for the DC-3, mainly because I have had a long term affinity with it and also because the challenge of the build tickles me.
I'm not so much into ARFs but like the scale build. I am attaching a photo of the plane I hope to copy.
Regards
Ari
Thanks for the comments. I think I may still go for the DC-3, mainly because I have had a long term affinity with it and also because the challenge of the build tickles me.
I'm not so much into ARFs but like the scale build. I am attaching a photo of the plane I hope to copy.
Regards
Ari
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
Ari, I have flown two of the Top Flite DC-3s for the same gentleman. The first one had OS 40 LAs while the second one had OS 25 FXs installed.
The OS 25s flew better than the 40s and generate enough power to make single engine go arounds from botched landing approaches. Either airplane will take off in less than 100 ft on hard surface runways. Landings take about 250 plus from touch down to roll out. Just wheel them on like the real thing an all will be well.
Both engines fly the plane best at half throttle when cruising. Full throttle looks like an old pattern ship roaring around in the sky.
Landings are real straight forward with or with out flaps.
The most important things are a true airframe, proper balance and engines that idle and come off of idle in a reliable fashion.
Top end rpm is not that important. It is better to run the engines toward the rich side than risk a shutdown in flight from a lean run caused by tweaking the last rpm out of them on the ground.
For their size I think that they are good performers you should have a good time with one.
The OS 25s flew better than the 40s and generate enough power to make single engine go arounds from botched landing approaches. Either airplane will take off in less than 100 ft on hard surface runways. Landings take about 250 plus from touch down to roll out. Just wheel them on like the real thing an all will be well.
Both engines fly the plane best at half throttle when cruising. Full throttle looks like an old pattern ship roaring around in the sky.
Landings are real straight forward with or with out flaps.
The most important things are a true airframe, proper balance and engines that idle and come off of idle in a reliable fashion.
Top end rpm is not that important. It is better to run the engines toward the rich side than risk a shutdown in flight from a lean run caused by tweaking the last rpm out of them on the ground.
For their size I think that they are good performers you should have a good time with one.
ORIGINAL: apalsson
I am thinking about a TF CD-3 as my next project and my first twin. I was wondering what to expect, both in terms of kit quality, difficulty of build and flight characteristics.
I had been planning to use two OS 40LA or OS 40FX as the OS Wankel engines are quite expensive.
Any comments?
Thanks in advance
Ari Palsson
I am thinking about a TF CD-3 as my next project and my first twin. I was wondering what to expect, both in terms of kit quality, difficulty of build and flight characteristics.
I had been planning to use two OS 40LA or OS 40FX as the OS Wankel engines are quite expensive.
Any comments?
Thanks in advance
Ari Palsson
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
All,
Thanks for the comments re engine choice so far.
Yesterday, the kit arrived in the mail but I set it aside till I have finished the project I'm working on at the moment.
What comments are there on 4-strokes for the DC-3?
Ari
Thanks for the comments re engine choice so far.
Yesterday, the kit arrived in the mail but I set it aside till I have finished the project I'm working on at the moment.
What comments are there on 4-strokes for the DC-3?
Ari
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
I'll second OS 32SX engines for your project. They are a bit pricy but the engines are very impressive. They are very close to the same power as an 40FX. I use the same props on my 32SX as on my 40FX. They are very easy to tune, are much quieter than the 40 size engines and use way less fuel. I have one on my sons LT25 and it will haul the plane off the ground in about 25 feet and then pull the plane almost straight up! Forget the Wankel engines. They are very expensive, they don't have as power as the 32SX and like other rotary engines they are very fuel thirsty. I don't see the advantage of having one.[8D]
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
I'm flying mine with OS 52 FS. AC is 11.3 pounds and is overpowered, I typicaly fly at 1/2 throttle. Two 40 FS' s would haul it around very nicely and still fly on one engine.
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
I agree, the 32 SX is not a cheap engine. I have found it for $125 whereas the 40LA can be had for $59
The 32 is 10mm smaller though, so it shouldn't stick out of the cowlinfs as much as the 40 will.
Ari
The 32 is 10mm smaller though, so it shouldn't stick out of the cowlinfs as much as the 40 will.
Ari
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
ive been flying my marutaka dc 3 with 2xsaito 30 and the power is enough for me..its the same size
as TF -dc3 but i dont know if it weighs less,however,it sounds and flies great with this setup and it is easy to
land with these engines running,you can have a little bit higher idle and still get the speed down..
tried it at first with os 40 and i didnt like it at all then,too fast for my taste/bokis
as TF -dc3 but i dont know if it weighs less,however,it sounds and flies great with this setup and it is easy to
land with these engines running,you can have a little bit higher idle and still get the speed down..
tried it at first with os 40 and i didnt like it at all then,too fast for my taste/bokis
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
I've flown mine with saito .52's for a couple of years. Mine is heavy and flies that way - glassed wings and fuse, but at 1/2 throttle on a low flyby - it looks and sounds great. Pretty well mannered overall, but it has its moments. I've flown mine with a guy who had .25's and about 4 lbs less weight - loops, rolls, touch and go's - it really flew well. No way I'd try in mine what he did in his - weight is the key.
Larry
Larry
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
ORIGINAL: multimike
I have a fair number of twins and multis in my collection and the only dud was a DC3, to me it is NOT a good first twin to build, the most stable, it you are into scale is a PBY, nice big thick wing, engines close together, very stable flyer good luck Mike
I have a fair number of twins and multis in my collection and the only dud was a DC3, to me it is NOT a good first twin to build, the most stable, it you are into scale is a PBY, nice big thick wing, engines close together, very stable flyer good luck Mike
(she sure was pretty though!)
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
ORIGINAL: Fili
I have to agree, I don't think this kit is a good first twin. My Martuka P38 flew better than this kit. I had Tower hobies .40s plenty of power. At slower speeds, mine tended to tip stall. Had to come in hotter than usual and needed plenty of ground speed for take off.
(she sure was pretty though!)
I have to agree, I don't think this kit is a good first twin. My Martuka P38 flew better than this kit. I had Tower hobies .40s plenty of power. At slower speeds, mine tended to tip stall. Had to come in hotter than usual and needed plenty of ground speed for take off.
(she sure was pretty though!)
I have access to plenty of help with the flying aspect and am looking forward to spending many hours trying ro replicate a particular DC3
Thanks for the comments though
Ari
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RE: Top-Flite DC-3
Hi!
The key to having a successful twin is to build it light! Not just putting the kit together glueing part A to part B.
Being very cautious to what you use regarding material and equipment and always asking yourself: "Do I really need this part", "Does this part serve any purpouse", Does this part have to be this thick/large/heavy/ etc", "Can I make this part lighter by using any other material" (like glass and carbon). These are the questions I always ask myself when I build my airplanes.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
The key to having a successful twin is to build it light! Not just putting the kit together glueing part A to part B.
Being very cautious to what you use regarding material and equipment and always asking yourself: "Do I really need this part", "Does this part serve any purpouse", Does this part have to be this thick/large/heavy/ etc", "Can I make this part lighter by using any other material" (like glass and carbon). These are the questions I always ask myself when I build my airplanes.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden