dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

can I change to a 11.1 li-po instead of the stock 8.4 ni-mh. in an esky honey bee fp without any problams? and is there a good online site to order parts?

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

can anyone help please

ptarp

An 11.1v lipo is definately recommend as I couldn't even get my HB to lift more than 1ft with the 8.4v ni-mh. There are numerous sites that sell lipos. Just make sure to get a light pack with a capacity of around 1100-1800 (any higher and it will probably weigh quite a bit). Ebay sellers have lipos of decent quality for super cheap (just check shipping charges). Just do a search for 11.1v on ebay and you'll have a ton of options.

Norrmannen

Whooooah!

Do a little search. Have read several reports on people putting 11.1 Lipos in their FP Esky/Twister with BAD results. (Burnt electronics after a wild completely uncontrollable flight)
I use a 2S 1200 mah Align (7,2 V) LiPo in mine and it performs better than with the NiMh's and flys more than twice as long.

Just because the CP version uses 11,1 V LiPo's it's not evident that the electronics of the FP can take the higher voltage.

But take care, I don't believe the FP versions (at least) has any cut off for low voltage and LiPo's should not be drained too much...

Shard

Alot of people are using 3cell Lipos on their RTF kits but they usually make sure that their 3-in-1 boards are cooled properly (putting heat sinks on, cutting cooling holes..etc.). You will burn out your tail motors very quickly going that route. I would recommend going with a 2cell Lipo which are lighter, cheaper, and will give you much better flight times then your NiMh packs. Make sure to purchase a LiPo specific charger! NEVER charge lipos/li-ions on a NiMh charger!!! Also, with a 3cell pack you will need to buy a lipo alarm so not to damage your batteries... with a 2 cell you don't have to worry about that because your heli will no longer be able to lift off when your packs are discharged to ~6V.

kermitdafrog

dalolyn,

I'm running a Honey Bee FP with 2-cell 1200 mah lipos.

If you change to 2-cell lipos from 7-cell nimh, instead of 3-cell lipos for the Honey Bee FP, you'll be amazed at the difference without going to the 11.1 volt (and probably burn out less tail motors from what I've read). The weight of my stock 7-cell nimh is around 88 grams, and the 2-cell 1200 lipo is around 48 grams. so that alone makes a huge difference, not to mention the time between charges.

Check out [link=http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm]http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm[/link] Their 1200's are under $20.

Their advertised weights for the 7.4 volt 1200 mah show 10 grams higher from what mine weighed in at.

If you go lipo, you'll have to get a charger, and I'd recommend you get one that will handle up to at least 3 cells (11.1 volt) in case you go to a CP heli later. I got the Apache 2500 charger ($49.95 retail), and it will handle up to 4 cells and 2500 ma charge rate. You do have to provide your own 12-volt battery or supply as with a lot of chargers.

Rick

MTDV

My Feedback: (58)

I was runnign my Dragonfly with a 2-cell 7.4V 1200mA Kokam, and it flew great. Everything was stocked parts even the tail motor. The 2s lipo was lighter than the 8.4V NiMH, and that kept the heli flew longer (of course more current). I tried the 3s Lipo and it has more power than it need. However, I had to add two 3A diodes in series to keep the voltage down. If you are really wanted to fly with lot of power, you need to go with brushless motor. I converted my CD-ROM motor to run in my Dragonfly, and it was fun. I flew much longer with avg 3A. DO NOT BUY Li-Ion BATTERY. It is only used for light current, even a high current pack (i.e. 1800ma). Li-Ion has almost 3C discharge rate, so it is good for our heli hobby (even it is heavier). I learned the hard way by having 1300mA Li-Ion in the stock Dragonfly, and it flew only thirty seconds. I hope this would give you some hint.

MTDV.

Flying is fun