BoogieMan2

I recently needed a cradle to work on planes in my workshop. After looking around on the web I realized that the simplicity of a cradle is amazing so I concluded that building my own would not only be rewarding but would allow me the flexibility that I wanted. I have four (4) planes which considerably differ in size. I went to my workshop and began to contemplate the design for my cradle.

All cradles and stands I have seen have a "U" shaped pocket to hold the plane however, I wasn't sure that would work well for me due to the varying degree of sizes that I have to work with. I decided on a "V" shaped pocket as this would allow for greater variance in size. Mathematically the "U" would only allow for a plane (fuse / wing) that is no larger than the width of the furthest distance of the "U" which is of course located at the top of the shape. This typically won't cause an issue if the distance is great enough. Your largest plane would fit snugley into the shape, but the smaller planes would be sloppy and loose in the pocket. By creating a pocket "V" I have fewer restrictions to width and can allow for a much greater array of sizes. With the contemplation decidedly behind me it was time to begin construction. In the interest of helping other modelers I decided to time the entire process so that if it was easy to make I could share my design with anyone intersted. The entire process took only 18 minutes to complete! That is of course unfinished (not painted, stained, etc.) however, I am still undecided on whether I will do that anyway.

The size of the cradle is 9 3/4" wide, 18" in length, and stands at the tip 14" in height. The "V" pocket is at a 32 degree angle and is 6" inches. On the top of the plywood in the pocket I attached "masonite" 4" wide, 7 " long. I glued thin foam onto the masonite to provided padding for the model.

This cradle was easy and quick to build and I literally used "scrap" wood! Anyone could build this even with limited woodworking skill! If anyone is interested in a plan I would be more than happy to share it.

carrellh

If you could post a photo, and a sketch of your plan, it would be great. Your description is very good, and I think something like this would be very useful.

BoogieMan2

I don't have a picture of it yet, I will take one tonight. For now I have rendered an image in photoshop with corresponding diminsions.
Let me know if you have any questions.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

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carrellh

The drawing is great. Thanks.

BoogieMan2

thanks... I hope it works out for you![8D]

Sethhunter

Thanks - nice to see how others are solving the problem. The V is clever.

I handled the size problem slightly differently - rather than a V or U cut, I made an L shape to support the fuse with two "inverted L" arms (all .5" birch ply) that close the open side; they pivot on a dowel under rubber band tension. That way I can open the arms to slip in any width fuse and the arms hold it against the fixed sides. I put the whole works on a hinged base, so I can tip the fuse to work on it an any angle. For big projects, I still make a custom craddle to fit the project.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I build all my transport/work stands using the "KISS" principle. Takes about 10 min to build and can be built to any size needed with larger or smaller PVC. With 45's on the lower legs, I can put in legs to get it up higher if needed.
Takes 2, 90 deg crosses, 4 tee's, and 4, 45 deg elbows. All the PVC tubing is cut to length as needed.
If it is too long or short for a current model, you can cut the spreaders & ad or remove with pvc joiners.

BoogieMan2

SethHunter - It sounds like you have found a good solution as well. Do you have plans for this? I am interested to see it. Moreover, it would be of use to people looking for such a thing here on the forum... Great job and thanks so much for sharing!!! Perhaps this is overkill but, if you married the "L" and the "V" on a "floating" hinge over a dowel you could allow for greater adjustment. To handle the large project issue the base could be adjustable (length, height, and width). This is an interesting design to ponder. Additionally, if you created an extendable sub-base and a couple of detachable pegs - the building cradle could be used as a carrier in the back of a pick-up for example. You have my brain working now - I like that![8D]

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I don't think I qualify for cheap... more like DIRT cheap[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]. sorry to steal your thunder on the think but I spent about 5 min on the entire design and build process.[sm=idea.gif] You may take note I use the flat bottom too. Sometimes, when I am feeling a little GIGI I lay the rig in its side

Ross Kean

I have a cradle for each plane - custom built. The cradle is simply a cheap (usually free) styrofoam cooler like the ones used to pack fish. Approx 2.5' L x 1.5' W x 1' H. I simply scoop a shallow "U" out of each end to fit the plane and I end out with a stable cradle for storage, transport or to work on the plane. The additional advantage is having the bottom of the box itself to store screws, parts, belly pan etc. The styrofoam is kind to monokote/balsa. I have found that "V" shaped cradles can put too much pressure at the contact points causing damage - even if covered with pipe insulation.

Ross

BoogieMan2

I really appreciate each and everyones response to this thread. The information and input provided is astounding. I have taken pictures as promised - so here they are.