Pete850

Hi Chaps,

I have been flying R/C for years but have very little experience of Control Line (flew a simple profile model with a Cox .049 about 35 years ago).

I'd like to get back into it again, so am really looking for some advice on a suitable "first" plane. Something fairly big (30" plus) and relatively slow flying and not too lively. Oh, and fairly easy to build too. Any ideas/suggestions please?

Cheers

Pete

Phlip

I'm hearing good things about the Top-Flite and Brodak ARFs, although I just have the Flite-Streak, myself. Definitely not "relatively slow flying and not too lively." When you say easy to build, does that mean you really want to build, or is just assembling OK?

I too, had only flown Cox .049 powered C/Ls for years as a kid, but when you get that first "real" C/L plane in the air, (in my case it was a Carl Goldberg Shoestring Stunter, profile fuselage, Fox .35) the difference is amazing! I later built a Sig Super Chipmunk for the same Fox, and still have it in flying condition, and also the Flite-Streak with a Veco .29.

I, obviously, don't have a lot of experience with larger C/L models, but it sure is fun. Just a couple of years ago I witnessed a C/L combat match and I was amazed at the agility of the planes. I figured that if I had a plane capable of doing those things, it probably would be easier to fly and look like I knew what I was doing. So I bought the Flite-Streak, and it has pretty much proven the theory, although I would really need lots of practice to get anywhere, and there really isn't time for that.

So, you may not want to avoid the lively planes, just balance it conservatively and set up the control throws on the mild side, put a tame prop on the engine and leave the mixture a touch rich, and go for it.

Phil

kdheath

There will be all kinds of opinions, and many of the ideas will work just fine! So some of this boils down to what you want to do and how much time and money you want to invest. Right now, one of the best low-effort power plants is the OS LA 25S. Enough power for a reasonable size plane, cheap, easy handling. So what plane to put it on? The Top Flite ARF Flite Streak is a great quick and dirty choice. Buy it Saturday, fly it Sunday. Great match with the LA 25. But it tends to be a little quick on the handle compared to some. So you could really use some help with it.

If you'd rather build something, look at the RSM Distribution Mark One.
http://rsmdistribution.com/kits-03.htm
Or an excellent choice that is really easy to build and tough, the Sig Skyray. (Highky recommended, in my book.)
http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig
Then there is a thing called the Ukey 35. It's a foam wing, hardwood fuselage, some assembly required plane that is very flyable and rugged, My son and I went through a couple of them getting re-started in CL. Also high;y recommended. Have to find you an address for these-Jim Pearson makes them, but I don't think there's a web site.
Welcome aboard! There's lots of help to be had out here. We'll do our best to get you going.
Kelvin

kiwipaul

Hi Pete
A good friend and fellow flyer gave me 2 combat planes. Called a Warlord and its English. The reasoning is they will take tremendous punishment and will fly again and again. I have flown and have "bought the farm" expecting total destruction. Flipped the prop (not broken) and flown again till the next meeting with mother earth, again no damage. A grass field is manditory. Combat planes are fast, manouverable, almost indistrutable and quick to build. Save your stunt planes till you have more practice. Good luck
Kiwipaul

Pete850

Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice. I have built from plan and ARTF's so don't mind really. I'd quite like to build from a plan, but do like the look of the RSM profiles particularly the Mark 1 or the Miss Sarah. So really either a profile kit OR plan.

Is there a company that has a catalogue of plans?

Cheers

Pete

Pete850

Hi Kiwipaul,

So looking at your comments, I could build a combat plane and I guess just reduce the elevator throw and prop pitch to tame it down until I get some experience - is that correct?

Pete

Larry S

My Feedback: (6)

Hi,
In my early twenties, I buit a few planes but two that were easy to build and fly were the Goldberg Shoestring Stunter and the Sterling Ringmaster. Both have 42" wingspands and fly great with a Fox 35. Between the two, I prefer the Ringmaster but the Shoestring is very good also. By the way, I'm now 58 years old and I finally lost my Ringmaster after many, many crashes this last summer. Not bad for a plane over 35 years old. It was beyond rebuilding this time. Also I was using the same Fox 35 and still use that engine. My advice, a Ringmaster and Fox 35. Check out EBay, they have them there.
Larry

Jim Thomerson

My advice would be go for the LA 25 and the Sig SkyRay. Copy the SkyRay parts so you can build a second, or third one. I'd get the RC engine, and for learning set the throttle to give you the power you want. You'll need some 60 ft .015 lines and a reasonable control handle. When you get to the point of flying maneuvers you can get a CL venturi from Stuka Stunt, or someone else. your RC clunk tank will work just fine. If you can find an experienced person to fly with, that will be a huge help. For an English source, check out Hallam Models.

Here is a useful British site. http://www.controlline.org.uk/phpBB2/index.php

kdheath

Plans? Have we got plans. Here are a few off the top of my favorites list. If you can't find what you're looking for, post your needs here or over at Stuka Stunt Works and usually someone will have something they can sell or copy for you. Sig would probably sell you plans for their current production, too. Lots of fun to rummage in all these sources.
http://www.controllineplans.com/
http://www.flying-models.com/
http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/plans.asp?catego=PL
http://www.aeroproduct.net/
http://www.brodak.com/
http://www.clstunt.com/
http://members.tripod.com/~TomDixon/tomdixon.htm
http://www.windyurtnowski.com/store/index.htm
http://www.control-line.org/DesktopDefault.aspx
http://www.modelaircraft.org/plansmain.asp

Last but not least, you need Phil Brown's links site for just about anything CL that's out there:
http://home.att.net/~philbrown36641s5/clhomepage.html

telmore

Lots of (free) stuff here:

http://www.the.elmores.btinternet.co.uk/telmore.html

Tony

telmore

Both PS Aeroproducts (http://www.psaeroproducts.org/) and Hallam Models:

69, Bole Hill Lane,
Sheffield,
England.
S10 1 SA

Tel: 01142 665624

Do combat model kits for 25quid a pop - and everything else you need (tanks, lines, props, handles etc)

Tony

vauxhall

Hi Pete, I can recommend the Cutlass, built from free plans on Tony Elmore's excellent site. Fast and very cheap to build. I used an R/C PAW 1.5 with the throttle wired open. I fly on 35' lines and have a pal who launches it for me, as you can see no wheels used.
If you're nervous about twitchy controls, just move the CofG forward 3/8", it will fly like a trainer, readjust it when you want to try some aerobatics...........John

Pete850

So much choice - thanks for all the advice chaps. I've got to let this all sink in a bit first.

Dunno whether to go for a combat ot a stunt. I must admit I prefer the look of the stunt type. How about making a stunt profile but with fixed flaps, which I could actvate when I get the hang of it? Or is that a stupid idea?

Cheers

Pete

kdheath

It's not a very useful idea. If it flies well without flaps, there's no point in adding them. You don't have to have flaps to fly a good stunt pattern. There is a terrific article from Stunt News by many times US champ Ted Fancher that explains the whys and wherefors of flaps. He strongly recommends starting with a siimple flapless plane, because flaps really complicate the trimming process. Flaps are there mostly to allow stunt models to fly at higher wing loadings. He considers flaps a hinderance at the basic level. If you want a copy of the article, e-mail Curt Nixon at PAMPA Products (hope the link works) and tell him you need a copy of Fancher's Doctor article. Well worth the understanding it'll bring.
http://www.control-line.org/Portals/...A_Products.pdf

Edit: think I found most of the typos...

telmore

I'd go for the combat wing approach - on ease of build/survivability grounds.

I've heard of the convertible fixed/movable flap approach but never seen it done - just as easy to build with one or t'other and use nose weight/slow controls to tame the beast until you're more confident.

Tony

ghost123uk

Hi from JB Cheshire.

I recommend combat wings, tamed down a bit to start with on the grounds that it won't break when you deck it.
Do check out the Hallam stuff ( in Sheffield ) as mentioned above, they do a combat kit that is dead easy to build, pretty strong (though could be beefed up for use as a first model). They also do a quick build kit of the Peacemaker ( they call it a Peacekeeper ) that is a great halfway house between a wing and a proper stunter, in fact very much the same as the Flitestreak mentioned above. ( if making one of these for sport use, I recommend skinning trhe whole fusealage with thin modellers ply, and make the fin from thin ply !! )

I agree re the OS25, a good all round motor, tho for the combat wings and Peacekeeper type models ( 30" to say 45" a mild 15 or 19 would be a better choice, perhaps a Thunder Tigre, or the famous PAW Diesel if you fancy a Diesel )

I find it very good that C/L is getting a revival, we have folks from many R/C clubs starting to fly C/L again, we were guests at the Rhyl club this weekend flying combat and giving training lessons to newbies

Don't forget the first big C/L event of the year, "The Barton Bash"
Details at - http://www.controlline.org.uk/phpBB2...opic.php?t=793

Pete850

Thanks for the comments JB, I was chatting to one of our "old boys" yesterday at the flying site who is a keen C/L flier as well as R/C and he says that he gets much more of a buzz from Control Line because you're in direct contact with the plane.

I'm currently looking at a couple of plans on good old ebay as I really fancy a plan build. What do you guys cover yours with? Is it tissue, silk or solarfilm? or is it just personal preference?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers

Pete

ghost123uk

Yep thats just it, plus the ground is closer so you have to have your wits about you all the time, not just when landing that R/C model.

If you want to build from a plan, then the Peacemaker is a good one that is easy to source, tho as I say the fuse and tail should be re-enforced for the first model.


We use "Pro-Film" mostly as it is strong, easy to work with and is Diesel fuel proof ( note that Solar Film isn't Diesel proof )
Tho on our classic combat models we still use Nylon and Dope for ultimate strength.
For instance, a Nylon covered Warlorg combat wing will survive serious crashes time after time without breaking, great for learning basic aerobatics. Silk is often used on those beautifully finished full size stunt ships.

gcb

If your interest is eventually stunt, you might also want to pick up plans of the Doctor or Medic that the article came with. The Doctor uses a modern .35 or .40 (if I remember correctly), and the Medic uses a modern .25. Excellent article, excellent planes. The Medic would match up to a LA .25, and there are LOTS of other planes that use a .25 if you decide to start with that size.

Plans and article reprent all available from PAMPA, as Keith mentioned.

George

Pete850

I'm currently bidding on a Grumman Wildcat 45" profile plan (Timely Plans of America plan no 113) on good ole' ebay and have sent for a Catalogue and price list from Hallam Models.

When I decide what I'm going to build, then I'll get an engine to suit from Just Engines (great service by the way).
I fancy something of a reasonable size (makes a bigger hole when it goes in!!) so the 45" Wildcat would suit the bill, plus its a profile therefore easier to build plus its a warbird, which I love.

I'll be coming back to you guys for more help as things go on if that's OK.

Cheers

Pete